Jump to content

M8 and Noctilux


Olsen

Recommended Posts

Advertisement (gone after registration)

Mine focuses perfectly - at f1 the camera focuses at the front of the zone of good focus. This lens, plus ISO 2500 plus working the noise slider in C1 let you go places that seem impossible. This, from the night before last, is lit by two candles at a distance of about 1.5 meters.

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites

plus ISO 2500 plus working the noise slider in C1 let you go places that seem impossible.

 

Personally, I think the noise slider in C1 should be left well alone (at the low setting). I think the noise reduction tends to rob most high ISO images of all their character (and detail).

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have run tests on the following lenses and the results are a bit disturbing.

 

35 Biogon at f2 front-focusing noticeably (ie sharper nearer the to camera from the focus point than further away) but correct at f4.

 

50 Elmar-M Noticeable back focus at f2.8 - worse at f5.6.

 

50 Noctilux very slight back focus at f1 but quite soft; back-focus increases substantially at f2 and further at f5.6. Actually almost out of focus at focus point with all the DOF further away from the focus point.

 

90 Elmarit-M Spot on at f2.8 very slight back-focus at f5.6.

 

All measured at 45º and 1.8m distance on a Manfrotto 190 + RC141 head and cable release with 1.25 magnifier.

 

Wilson

Link to post
Share on other sites

best advice is to get out there and enjoy it

 

imo many focus errors shooting brick walls and the like are user error...... with the F1 lens there are so many parameters that can go astray, the margins are really so tight.

 

 

 

when i first got my noctibang one of the first things i did was shoot about 20 pictures of a 6 month old kid, they were all pretty much the same.. the focus looked bang on in the viewfinder for each one, subject at minimum focus dist.

 

get them into photohsop ....every single shot was out of focus

 

reason: user error

Link to post
Share on other sites

best advice is to get out there and enjoy it

 

imo many focus errors shooting brick walls and the like are user error...... with the F1 lens there are so many parameters that can go astray, the margins are really so tight.

 

 

 

when i first got my noctibang one of the first things i did was shoot about 20 pictures of a 6 month old kid, they were all pretty much the same.. the focus looked bang on in the viewfinder for each one, subject at minimum focus dist.

 

get them into photohsop ....every single shot was out of focus

 

reason: user error

 

Do I therefore need to employ a full time focus puller complete with laser measuring device and steel tape? My tests were all in fact with the Nikon D70 focus target but blown up to A3+ I am going to try Sean Reid's test of the three wine bottles. He says it is more realistic and as you empty the wine bottles you get to the state where you really don't care anyway

 

Wilson

Link to post
Share on other sites

yep getting to the 3 bottles is probably the important bit ;)

 

 

seriously though i was talking more about the Noctilux rather than responding specifically to your post

 

sounds like your issues are more widespread

Link to post
Share on other sites

Advertisement (gone after registration)

Wilson,

 

I love your humor,LOL, Just for pig iron you should try to focus without the 1.25x. I think I've suggested this to you before. I've noticed miss focus with the 50 FL and 1.25 and perfect without. I've also tried 2x 1.25's stacked and results were perfect also. I'm still trying to figure that one out :confused: .

Link to post
Share on other sites

Wilson,

 

I love your humor,LOL, Just for pig iron you should try to focus without the 1.25x. I think I've suggested this to you before. I've noticed miss focus with the 50 FL and 1.25 and perfect without. I've also tried 2x 1.25's stacked and results were perfect also. I'm still trying to figure that one out :confused: .

 

Eoin,

 

You are right. I have just tried a few with the wine bottles (just a couple to steady me 'ands guvnor - honest) and I am more on focus without the 1.25x magnifier than I am with it. With it I am consistently back focusing by about 3-5 cm at 1.5M. Well that was a waste of £200! Here is the example without the magnifier lateral bottles are about 2-3 cm in front and behind the central one taken on Leica table tripod at f1.0.

 

Wilson

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites

I am suffer a consistent back focus issue too on all of my faster lenses (noctilux,50/1.4 lux asph,35/1.4 lux asph) aperature range fm full open to 2.8-4.0 n all spot on fm f5.6 up. i wonder is it the lense's issue n nothing to do with M8 as all of my rest lenses focus perfectly at any aperature(21/2.8asph,28/2.8,35/2.0asph,90/2.0 apo asph,135/3.4 apo tylt).any comment ????

Link to post
Share on other sites

I am suffer a consistent back focus issue too on all of my faster lenses (noctilux,50/1.4 lux asph,35/1.4 lux asph) aperature range fm full open to 2.8-4.0 n all spot on fm f5.6 up. i wonder is it the lense's issue n nothing to do with M8 as all of my rest lenses focus perfectly at any aperature(21/2.8asph,28/2.8,35/2.0asph,90/2.0 apo asph,135/3.4 apo tylt).any comment ????

 

Have your lenses code tagged & and adjusted at Leica. This will, most likely, correct the problem. I

Link to post
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...