Manual Focusing RF vs EVF

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I tried to preset the distance and then wait until the subject moved to that distance

 

For parades and biking races I focus on some easily discernible lines or cracks on the ground and wait until the victim is there. Rather, nearly there, just so that the victim will be there when the shutter is open.

 

If the ground does not offer any suitable features, there might be flags, railings, their shadows or anything at all.

[Exodies]

I'm surprised I focus anything. I have Zeiss butterfly lenses in my eyeballs configured so that I can see clearly to read. I use progressive lenses in my spectacles but prefer to take them off when using the camera. I use a diopter correction lens and the range finder all the time with 35 and 50mm. My spectacles prescription is -2 and I use a -2 diopter correction.

 

My 90mm lens needs a different approach. In bright light, the 1.4x magnifier (with diopter) works better on the 90, but makes the 35 and 50 harder to focus. In low light the EVF and 5x magnification and focus peaking make the 90 useable.

 

As for moving subjects, a sock filled with ball bearings should be used to stun them before attempting to take their photo.

[Bill Livingston]

As for moving subjects, a sock filled with ball bearings should be used to stun them before attempting to take their photo.

 

[John Z. Goriup]

I'm surprised I focus anything. I have Zeiss butterfly lenses in my eyeballs configured so that I can see clearly to read. I use progressive lenses in my spectacles but prefer to take them off when using the camera. I use a diopter correction lens and the range finder all the time with 35 and 50mm. My spectacles prescription is -2 and I use a -2 diopter correction.

 

My 90mm lens needs a different approach. In bright light, the 1.4x magnifier (with diopter) works better on the 90, but makes the 35 and 50 harder to focus. In low light the EVF and 5x magnification and focus peaking make the 90 useable.

 

As for moving subjects, a sock filled with ball bearings should be used to stun them before attempting to take their photo.

 

I wear specs as well, but ABSOLUTELY NEVER DURING FOCUSING or when I'm looking through the RF, and after long experimentation have finally arrived at the ideal set-up ( for me ): a x1.25 magnifier and a 3.0 diopter. This arrangement works beautifully with all my lenses ( 21mm to 90mm ) but, the big problem is that the magnifer is not threaded, and makes the diopter fall out since it's merely "screwed" into the rubber collar on the magnifier. Obviously Wetzlar never ikntended for the magnifier to accept the diopter. I've lost several this way, and at $100 +per, it's getting expensive and more than mildly annoying. I've asked many times why the magnifiers are not threaded to accept diopters, but so far have not received an answer I thought was sound and reasonable.

 

I suspect that optical degredation when using both exceeds Leica's limits and this is a way to prevent "stacking" two incompatable items. I'd love to read jaap's comments to once and for all shed some light on this issue, since I cant belive I'm the first to try the 'stacking' and loosing a few hundred $ of diopters in the process

 

Care to share how you manage to keep the diopter in the magnifier without it falling out ???

 

Thank you,

 

JZG

[Jeff S]

...but, the big problem is that the magnifer is not threaded

 

The Leica brand 1.25 magnifier is indeed threaded. Mine, which sits in a drawer, is, and the retail ad for it clearly states…"It also has a thread for correction lenses to compensate for vision defects."

I get around any issues by simply wearing my glasses, as I have for decades….works fine for me, but everyone has his/her own preferences.

 

Jeff

[farnz]

I wear specs as well, but ABSOLUTELY NEVER DURING FOCUSING or when I'm looking through the RF, ...

JZG,

 

In case it's any help, I also use (progressive) specs but instead of using diopters and magnifiers I look through the RF with my specs and use an E-Clypse rubber RF cup and 0.85 demagnifier from Match Technical so that I can see the frame lines and my specs lenses don't get scratched.

 

Pete.

[Vip]

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I think that with wide angle the RF is much better and faster as in the EVF you need use the zoomx10 function to be as precise as RF, but this slow down so much with longer lens as 90 EVF makes the immage so bigger than RF that makes easier and faster to be sure of focusing

[Exodies]

My Leica magnifier is threaded to enable a diopter corrector to be stacked.

[bocaburger]

I think that with wide angle the RF is much better and faster as in the EVF you need use the zoomx10 function to be as precise as RF, but this slow down so much with longer lens as 90 EVF makes the immage so bigger than RF that makes easier and faster to be sure of focusing

 

Not sure I understand this. The magnification of a subject is in no way dependent upon the lens selected. All the frame lines do is crop the overall viewfinder image.

[microview]

Isn't Vip saying that with a 90mm lens the FOV is quite narrow so the enlarged area via EVF zoom seems to be much larger (ie as if you were closer to the object in focus) than with say a 35mm or 50mm lens? And so focusing that way is faster.

[jaapv]

Yes - but one should relate it to the original FOV of the lens, which means the crop is exactly the same.