menos I M6 Posted March 25, 2015 Share #101 Posted March 25, 2015 Advertisement (gone after registration) While I can see where the "leave the leader sticking out" advocates are coming from, I work differently.I always wind the leader completely in, always. Reasons? One is the issue you found yourself with, "was it far enough in, or not"? The other is that if I have more than one roll in front of me, anything with the leader wound in is ready for processing, and anything with the leader out is unused. Simple, and in the heat of the moment as fool-proof as this game can be. Gary I always rewind with leader out as I am spooling my film into tanks inside a cuddly, sweaty little changing bag ;-) My trick for organization (Ze Gerrman genes coming through klearrly): - I always carry a permanent marker pen inside the ziplock bag with my film - I write immediately after removing a roll 1) the actual exposed film speed 2) date of roll 3) camera used 4) last subject - I fold the film leader AGAINST the film curl sharply and replace the labelled and opposite folded roll back into the zip lock bag (together with the other rolls which are clearly looking different not being labelled and having their film leader the right way) When in a hurry and not being able to follow this quick procedure I do the quick version: - remove roll with leader out from camera - fold the film leader sharply AGAINST the film curl to sign the roll has been exposed - if time permits at least jot down film speed and a consecutive number In a slow minute I will then add the missing info from memory on each roll, having while having a coffee. btw, I do realize and completely understand that film costs are always going to be an issue for everyone (myself included.) But I'd just like to point out that buying from individuals on eBay (i.e., film that's been sold once already and/or is out of date; any film that's already been counted as sold by the manufacturer), might not be the best practice in respect to keeping film alive. We should always try to buy fresh film from authorized resellers (and which you may have very well done; there are several 'real' film vendors who sell directly on eBay.) Help keep film alive and healthy by always buying fresh stock. Good practice! I always buy my film in bulk from one of the large US retailers and import it myself. Even after tax + duty + currency conversion it used to be a lot cheaper than buying the outdated film locally off the shelf (usually largely overpriced). Yeah I'm organising myself, slowly but sorely I will get my foot into it! Meanwhile....Plustek OpticFilm 8100 is it a good choice to scan negatives? The Plustek is an ok scanner for beginning to explore the workflow of developing + scanning, … If you get the taste later on, you might look into better scanners but this usually comes later. What is important (and is the beauty of having physical negatives) is to start from the beginning to buy proper archival sleeves for your film and proper dry boxes to archive them in. This way you can always return some day and make a wet print or scan with a real fancy scanner ;-) This is also why I scan every single one of the negatives and archive them into a Lightroom library with keywords and rating. I can this way always find individual frames from years ago, pick them from the folders and re-scan and reprint … I use these archival sleeves: Print File Archival Storage Page for Negatives, 35mm - 010-0090 and these binders to store the archival sleeves: http://www.amazon.com/Archival-Binder-Negative-Sheets-Sleeves/dp/B00EWCPT12/ref=pd_sxp_f_pt Regarding film and development costs, you will quickly find that when concentrating just on one favorite film and one set of chems and kit, you will quickly see how low the cost for film developing yourself will become (not to mention the full control on quality and development speed at your convenience). I never developed Ilford film but stuck with Tri-X 400. A kit of one bag of D-76 developer and one packaging size of Kodak rapid fixer costs me here about ~15 EUR and I get usually 20-30 rolls of film out of it. The quick kits usually come with some unnecessary pieces of kit which in my opinion don't work so well. Here is what you must have: - thermometer (I find the good old fashioned glass thermometer the best although they act a little slow and like to break - just treat it nicely and it will last you a long time) - a staff for mixing chemicals (check out kitchen supply shops and get the cheapest tupperware hand mixing / stirring staff you can find) - measurement jugs: I use completely separate sets for developer and fixer because I am lazy, so I end up with a total of 5 jugs: 2x large 5 liter measurement jugs (one for dev + one for fixer) These are only to mix the stock developer and fixer once every few weeks/months. 3x small 1 liter measurement jugs (one for dev + one for fixer + one for water to wash film in the tank according to Ilford method) A set of laboratory grade glass storage bottles to store developer and fixer stock once mixed. I have 4x 1liter bottles for developer and 4x for fixer). I use no squeegee to aid drying my film as I have scratched my film this way one time too many and threw the darned thing out the window. I don't use film clamps (they generally have metal spikes to poke into and hold the film which are annoying + they are obscenely expensive !!!). I use the steel document office clamps in diverse sizes and simply hang the film this way. They come usually in large containers and cost a pittance by comparison. I hang film in the shower cabin for drying over night. Those are just a few small hints I wish I had had before buying one of those 70 EUR starter kits of which half the stuff is entirely useless now (I still use the excellent JoBo mixing / stirring rod. Oh - I forgot - check the local cheap market for some good bottle cleaning brushes. You want brushes for cleaning your film reels/ tanks and especially dev + fixer bottles now and then. I keep all my film dev stuff in a large clear plastic box which also doubles as a washing box when cleaning day for this all is on - quite convenient. Have fun … Oh - I forgot: an absolute must have for everybody developing film is the smartphone app from the "Massive Dev Chart" (I believe it's available for all platforms - I muse the iOS version and this is the absolute secret trick to keep all your development times in order in one place + it has a nice convenient time conversion depending on your chems temperature - very handy! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted March 25, 2015 Posted March 25, 2015 Hi menos I M6, Take a look here I think I want to try shoot film.... I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
jonnyboy Posted March 27, 2015 Author Share #102 Posted March 27, 2015 Thanks for this immense amount of tips! Really handy! I was actually about to buy one of those 70£ kit Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Najja Posted April 1, 2015 Share #103 Posted April 1, 2015 Which camera did you decide to get, assuming you started shooting film? Just curious about the outcome of your research on this matter. Happy shooting! BTW, I shoot with the M3. Bought it about 10 months ago. It was manufactured in 1957, according to the serial number, and it works like brand new. It brought photography to a higher level, in my opinion. I only shoot film. Just can't get with the digital age. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonnyboy Posted April 1, 2015 Author Share #104 Posted April 1, 2015 I have an M4-2 with a Voigtlander 35mm 1.4 So far I shot only Ilford HP5..I'm interested in black and white for now...I am enjoin a lot so far although I consider the really beginning of something - I started last December basically...I love the process of shooting on film, to give importance to every single shot and to think about the setting...is a bit like gambling especially when you don't have a meter - I used an app every once and a while. I'm not entirely satisfied with the result sometime - I look online and the majority of people get such a clinical sharp shot with film...it almost looks digital! I'm obviously not comparing myself as Im not an experts in the topic....could it be the lens I use? Could it be the rolls not being processed properly? And of course it must be a bit because I may be not extremely spot on when it comes to the perfect aperture/shutter combination....but I am enjoin what I'm doing and that's the most important for now Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nr90 Posted April 1, 2015 Share #105 Posted April 1, 2015 I have an M4-2 with a Voigtlander 35mm 1.4So far I shot only Ilford HP5..I'm interested in black and white for now...I am enjoin a lot so far although I consider the really beginning of something - I started last December basically...I love the process of shooting on film, to give importance to every single shot and to think about the setting...is a bit like gambling especially when you don't have a meter - I used an app every once and a while. I'm not entirely satisfied with the result sometime - I look online and the majority of people get such a clinical sharp shot with film...it almost looks digital! I'm obviously not comparing myself as Im not an experts in the topic....could it be the lens I use? Could it be the rolls not being processed properly? And of course it must be a bit because I may be not extremely spot on when it comes to the perfect aperture/shutter combination....but I am enjoin what I'm doing and that's the most important for now HP5 is relatively traditional film and ISO 400. Something like T-Max 100 or Delta 100 will get you sharper result, as long as you can stop down a few stops and still have a high enough shutter speed to avoid motion (or use a tripod). You could try T-max 400. Still a 400 speed film but less grain and (a little) sharper then HP5. Developers can also affect acuity. It also depends on what digital file you are comparing your shots to as it might have been scanned at a much higher resolution or had a lot of post-processing done. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
menos I M6 Posted April 2, 2015 Share #106 Posted April 2, 2015 Jonny, the only one thing you might add to your gear and find really, really elevating your game is a proper handheld light meter. There is a vast list of meters out there and everyone has a certain personal preference. I like the smallest handheld kind (about the size of a smart phone). In my opinion there are two meters that fit best in this category: This Sekonic meter: Sekonic Light Meter: L-308S Flashmate Exposure Meter - Overview And very similar in form factor yet with more functionality and a bit different approach in user interface - this Gossen light meter (not made any longer): Gossen Luna-Pro digital F (marketed under different names in US and Europe): Gossen Luna-Pro Digital F instruction manual, user manual, free PDF manual, camera manual Size wise they are comparable. The Gossen has a few more functions and in my opinion a much cleaner user interface. The Seconic is operated with a few buttons on the side (hence really designed to right hand use). The Gossen is more straightforward in user interface and easily operated with either hand. Both of these are around 100 USD second hand, the Gossen usually a little more than the Seconic. The important thing that a proper light meter provides you is: - incident metering - reflective metering with functions like measuring contrast of a scene - easily calculated filter factors (use a yellow/ orange filter for enhanced contrast under daylight conditions and have the light meter automatically calculate the proper exposure for you) I shoot a meter-less camera mostly without meter and just measure from time to time or in tricky lighting situations like this one: Scan-150330-0008--for_flickr by teknopunk.com, on Flickr Sure you can guess exposure and after a few years of regularly shooting without a meter you probably know what exposures to set by experience. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanG Posted April 3, 2015 Share #107 Posted April 3, 2015 Advertisement (gone after registration) I have an M4-2 with a Voigtlander 35mm 1.4So far I shot only Ilford HP5..I'm interested in black and white for now...I am enjoin a lot so far although I consider the really beginning of something - I started last December basically...I love the process of shooting on film, to give importance to every single shot and to think about the setting...is a bit like gambling especially when you don't have a meter - I used an app every once and a while. I'm not entirely satisfied with the result sometime - I look online and the majority of people get such a clinical sharp shot with film...it almost looks digital! I'm obviously not comparing myself as Im not an experts in the topic....could it be the lens I use? Could it be the rolls not being processed properly? And of course it must be a bit because I may be not extremely spot on when it comes to the perfect aperture/shutter combination....but I am enjoin what I'm doing and that's the most important for now What I am reading from this is that you think the process is what helps you give "importance to every shot." But that is not so. You simply are enjoying the process over the image creation. At some point, no matter what camera or method you use (film or digital,) if your goal is to become a good photographer, the process has to fall away, become transparent, and the final image should be all you seek. As for film, I know you said you don't plan on doing any printing. But if you are interested in ever mastering the process, learning what it takes to make high quality b/w prints is where you should start. It will force you to step up all other aspects of your photography. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonnyboy Posted April 6, 2015 Author Share #108 Posted April 6, 2015 @menos | M6 thanks very much for the advice.. oh and what a lovely picture you attached! I think I will invest in a little light meter and also I will try to change film...will buy some Tri-X as @Nr90 suggested.... I spent few months shooting film and right now I feel like starting developing my own negatives - I'm not sayn I will never print but I like to do one step at the time and try to experience every little step, hopefully the printing time will come next! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuthbert Posted April 6, 2015 Share #109 Posted April 6, 2015 @menos | M6 thanks very much for the advice.. oh and what a lovely picture you attached! I think I will invest in a little light meter and also I will try to change film...will buy some Tri-X as @Nr90 suggested.... I spent few months shooting film and right now I feel like starting developing my own negatives - I'm not sayn I will never print but I like to do one step at the time and try to experience every little step, hopefully the printing time will come next! Jonny, you don't really need a lightmeter, at least not for B&W, you can just study with diligence the "sunny 16 rule", in reality a pretty broad topic. Lesson 13 - Sunny 16 Rule (Photography Tutorial) | Easy Exposure Basic film photography tip and technique for exposure - Sunny 16 | Guide to Film Photography Aperture and Shutter Speed reciprocity, or how to apply the f16 sunny Rule in the daily practice | IN TheDarkroom Sunny 16 and Beyond | e v e r y d a y aperture http://www.exposureguide.com/exposure.htm These are few good links to start. Personally I never use external lightmeters with my M3, M4-P and soviet rangefinders, if I need an accurate reading I do use the M5 which despite of what they write about is probably one of the best Leica ever made. I recently posted some of my shots, all B&W were not metered and I tried to use my brain, yes it takes some time but the satisfaction of being able to shoot on your own is guaranteed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonnyboy Posted April 7, 2015 Author Share #110 Posted April 7, 2015 Jonny, you don't really need a lightmeter, at least not for B&W, you can just study with diligence the "sunny 16 rule", in reality a pretty broad topic. Lesson 13 - Sunny 16 Rule (Photography Tutorial) | Easy Exposure Basic film photography tip and technique for exposure - Sunny 16 | Guide to Film Photography Aperture and Shutter Speed reciprocity, or how to apply the f16 sunny Rule in the daily practice | IN TheDarkroom Sunny 16 and Beyond | e v e r y d a y aperture Exposure | Understanding Exposure - ISO, Aperture and Shutter Speed Explained These are few good links to start. Personally I never use external lightmeters with my M3, M4-P and soviet rangefinders, if I need an accurate reading I do use the M5 which despite of what they write about is probably one of the best Leica ever made. I recently posted some of my shots, all B&W were not metered and I tried to use my brain, yes it takes some time but the satisfaction of being able to shoot on your own is guaranteed. I work as a camera operator for videos, so I'm quite used to understand lights and stuff...is just sometime you got that weird moment where you feel like you guessing too much I like to stay super lightweight when I'm out shooting, my camera is enough most of the time...I like shooting street photography, so I may check the meter when I go out but then work out with my mind all day more or less... I need a quick tip: I'm going to Silverprint tomorrow (amazing shop in London, I definitely reccomend if none ever been) to buy the darkroom kit. I saw a Paterson kit going for 50£ with: - Universal Developing Tank with 2 spirals - Two 600ml Graduates - One 150ml Graduate - Thermometer - Film Squeegee - Set of 2 Film Clips - Full instructions Can you guys tell me which chemicals I have to buy? I would rather go prepared with an idea rather then go there and look lost Should be 2 or 3 different chemicals right? Chemistry - Silverprint Photographic Supplies Thanks! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuthbert Posted April 7, 2015 Share #111 Posted April 7, 2015 The problem I have with external lightmeters is that it takes more time to shoot, there is no real alternative to TTL especially if you shoot street photography or nature, the right moment can escape after you move your eye out of the viewfinder...of course that's my opinion, other cameraslingers can shoot faster than me even with an external meter. However I add here some shots I've taken with my M3 and IIIb that were not metered, I hope you'll like it and consider exposure "guessing" feasible: For the chemicals I can't be of much help as at the moment I can't develop in house, however if you're going to London perhaps it's worth of visiting West End Camera in Tottenham Court Road, another shop for analog film. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
menos I M6 Posted April 8, 2015 Share #112 Posted April 8, 2015 I work as a camera operator for videos, so I'm quite used to understand lights and stuff...is just sometime you got that weird moment where you feel like you guessing too much I like to stay super lightweight when I'm out shooting, my camera is enough most of the time...I like shooting street photography, so I may check the meter when I go out but then work out with my mind all day more or less... I need a quick tip: I'm going to Silverprint tomorrow (amazing shop in London, I definitely reccomend if none ever been) to buy the darkroom kit. I saw a Paterson kit going for 50£ with: - Universal Developing Tank with 2 spirals - Two 600ml Graduates - One 150ml Graduate - Thermometer - Film Squeegee - Set of 2 Film Clips - Full instructions Can you guys tell me which chemicals I have to buy? I would rather go prepared with an idea rather then go there and look lost Should be 2 or 3 different chemicals right? Chemistry - Silverprint Photographic Supplies Thanks! I would skip the squeegee (I scratched my film one time too many and threw the darn thing away). It is better to wash the film in distilled water and maybe in hard cases use a large blower bulb to removed stubborn water drops from the film when hung to dry. I try to prevent touching the film with any tools or finger print them (although I am not of the white gloves brigade handling it). Regarding chemicals - this really depends on which film you want to try out first. As I am stuck with using just one developer and mostly one or two different silver based B&W films, I use this: Kodak D-76 developer (comes in plastic bags in powder form, ready to be mixed to a gallon of stock developer). Mixing it is dead easy - just use hot water and follow the packaging advise (takes me 10 minutes to mix, have it stand down in the shower for cooling and filling it up a few hours later into 1l bottles) I use for the ease of use Kodak Rapid fixer (comes in a three compound liquid package). I don't use the hardening compound and just mix it at the same time, I mix my developer according to packaging instructions - easy to use, works well. I do not use a stop bath and it works great (even recycling my developer and fixer for ~ 8 rolls of film per 1 liter of liquid). I do not use a final rinse with fotoflow, or even make a final wash in distilled water, as until now my tap water is fairly suited for direct use without having issues (which would show usually water stains). Try developing one not so important film without final rinse in distilled water and fotoflow and see if the film is clean after drying. As a start I would (biased to TriX and D-76): 1x Kodak D76 Film Developer 3.8L 1 US Gallon - Silverprint The shop you linked has also smaller and larger packages - you can try the smallest and see if you like working with it. 1x Amazon.com : Kodak Liquid Rapid Fixer Solution for Black & White Film and Paper, 1-Gallon, Part "A"&"B". : Camera & Photo This gives you 1gallon of each needed chemical for developing and fixing the film. It will last you for about ~25 rolls of film (one 36 exposure roll of 35mm or one 120 roll) if used within a few months. You need some bottles for storage when mixing your chemicals. I use lab bottles with tight lid, similar to this type (but in 1 liter size): Wheaton Bottle, Clear Glass, With 33-400 Black Phenolic Rubber Lined Screw Cap: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific If you can find the measurement jugs cheap in some laboratory supply shop (or maybe at the university a lab is closing and giving away some stuff) you can save the overpriced jugs from the kitchen supply and online shops (I use a local lab supply store in Shanghai and this stuff is REALLY inexpensive). You really don't need trays if you don't wash the film by hand or go and print. So trays are a luxury not needed. Film clamps are not nice - I prefer office document clips (this stuff - buy the ones you can find at the local penny market: Amazon.com : Staples® Binder Clips, Assorted Sizes, Black, 60 per Pack : Office Products To weight the film down for drying just use a few of them at the bottom. Fold the film sharply on top and bottom before using one of these clamps and they cannot slip out. Lastly: most important buy: thermometer Get the cheap glass/alcohol ones from the lab supply shop. No need (and really no advantage) going for anything fancy and expensive. Budget about 2-5 USD a piece max and buy two (in case you break one). Get yourself the MassiveDevChart app for Android/iOS. Film Development Timer for iPhone, iPod Touch, iPad & Android I am not so hot on all this smartphone geekery and app stuff, but THIS is the very one app, I would buy an iPhone for. Before developing your first film, go through it (without film or better with a broken try out film) and test if you have lined up everything and have all gear at hand. Don't forget to get a changing bag (or dark tent). Without this you will not be able to properly load your development tank with the film. example: Amazon.com : Adorama Small Changing Bag, 16x17", for Bulk Loading Film. : Camera Cases : Camera & Photo The smaller ones (like above) work ok for loading one tank at once in a hurry and pack small (for travel). Larger ones (often twice or triple the price) are much more comfortable to use - no sweaty hands during summer). The problem I have with external lightmeters is that it takes more time to shoot, there is no real alternative to TTL especially if you shoot street photography or nature, the right moment can escape after you move your eye out of the viewfinder...of course that's my opinion, other cameraslingers can shoot faster than me even with an external meter. However I add here some shots I've taken with my M3 and IIIb that were not metered, I hope you'll like it and consider exposure "guessing" feasible: For the chemicals I can't be of much help as at the moment I can't develop in house, however if you're going to London perhaps it's worth of visiting West End Camera in Tottenham Court Road, another shop for analog film. No meter is all good and well after getting some experience. Using a meter though does not mean to slow down. I have a tiny Gossen always in a pocket one grab away, which I have preset for the used film and most likely aperture/ speed. I pull it out, take a reading and put it back in less than 10 seconds and KNOW PRECISELY a proper incident or reflective reading at a certain light. From this one reading I usually live for a while until I take another reading, if needed as the light changes or a situation is more tricky than the film's dynamic range can handle. For important shots (the street portrait, you can only take once and you are using maybe a clumsy MF camera), I rather spend those few seconds and take a reading. Usually I do my meter readings when approaching a subject or "on the way to a photo" so it is not any time I spend more or "loose", but rather I make sure I get the exposure I really want. The little Gossen is actually such a fantastic meter, I use it when out with a TTL metered camera like the digital M bodies or other cameras. I trust this meter for it's accuracy and huge versatility even over fancy matrix meters like in my Nikon DSLR bodies or the Leica S2, as it is a lot more predictable and precise. I would always recommend anyone to try one of those small light meters and see how it helps them, rather then recommending to do a Bresson. It's a bit like preferring to use a map instead of getting lost and missing dinner Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
philipus Posted April 8, 2015 Share #113 Posted April 8, 2015 Dirk has said it all pretty much - excellent info. Here's a pic showing my setup, for variety. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! I began with HC-110 which I find a good general purpose developer. Easy to use, keeps a long time and is very economical etc. I use Ilford chems for the rest and find they work well. On the thermometer front I disagree slightly. I initially had an analog model but hated waiting for it to give readings so I bought a digital one. For me well worth the investment. I use a changing tent instead of a bag because I have 5-roll (135) tank and like the space. They're comparably inexpensive if goes for the Calumet or Photoflex models (main difference being that the former has the arm holes on the front, whereas the latter have them on the sides, which I find better). About tanks, I would go for metal tanks with metal reels (I use Kindermann but there's also Hewes). I have never used a Paterson tank (so this is fwiw) but have read that the reels need to be bone dry before one loads a film. I suspect there are proponents of each type, but I find that the steel reels are easy to use for a second batch of developing even if they are not completely dry. I would also consider a tank that accepts 120 film. I bought my tank (used) with that in mind and now, several years later, I am happy I did since I've recently begun using medium format. Br Philip Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! I began with HC-110 which I find a good general purpose developer. Easy to use, keeps a long time and is very economical etc. I use Ilford chems for the rest and find they work well. On the thermometer front I disagree slightly. I initially had an analog model but hated waiting for it to give readings so I bought a digital one. For me well worth the investment. I use a changing tent instead of a bag because I have 5-roll (135) tank and like the space. They're comparably inexpensive if goes for the Calumet or Photoflex models (main difference being that the former has the arm holes on the front, whereas the latter have them on the sides, which I find better). About tanks, I would go for metal tanks with metal reels (I use Kindermann but there's also Hewes). I have never used a Paterson tank (so this is fwiw) but have read that the reels need to be bone dry before one loads a film. I suspect there are proponents of each type, but I find that the steel reels are easy to use for a second batch of developing even if they are not completely dry. I would also consider a tank that accepts 120 film. I bought my tank (used) with that in mind and now, several years later, I am happy I did since I've recently begun using medium format. Br Philip ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/236590-i-think-i-want-to-try-shoot-film/?do=findComment&comment=2794725'>More sharing options...
menos I M6 Posted April 8, 2015 Share #114 Posted April 8, 2015 Thanks of the pic Philip! Very neat! Can you believe it? I never ever once thought about using cloth hangers to expand on the rolls of film I can hang ;-) I run in one session 4 double tanks (+ two 4x5 tanks on the rare occasion), that makes 8 rolls of 135 or 120 in a night (I almost never develop a roll or two only but stash exposed rolls until I run 8). Hanging on the shower frame got a bit crowded this way - thanks to your cloth hanger tip though, I'll try something different. Now I have to explain to the general not only using half the freezer and the entire vegetable drawer in the fridge but also the disappearing of cloth hangers - haha! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuthbert Posted April 8, 2015 Share #115 Posted April 8, 2015 No meter is all good and well after getting some experience. Using a meter though does not mean to slow down. I have a tiny Gossen always in a pocket one grab away, which I have preset for the used film and most likely aperture/ speed. I pull it out, take a reading and put it back in less than 10 seconds and KNOW PRECISELY a proper incident or reflective reading at a certain light. I couldn't ask the pigeon in my shoots to "pose" for me for 10 seconds... And I already had to shoot the guy with a camera from the 30s with separate rangefinder and viewfinder, I had to: 1) Notice the pigeon 2) Get close enough without alarming him 3) Compose 4) Set the F stop to get him in focus and a nice bokeh in the foreground 5) Set the shutter speed 6) Focus him precisely enough Sorry I'm not fast enough to extract an hand held meter and get the reading! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
philipus Posted April 8, 2015 Share #116 Posted April 8, 2015 Can you believe it? I never ever once thought about using cloth hangers to expand on the rolls of film I can hang ;-) I hope it works out. In my case it was an idea born out of necessity as I found myself without a good way to hang the films, but I find that it works really well. Btw, I can relate to the batch development. I have recently worked myself through a stack of about 40 rolls shot. br Philip Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
menos I M6 Posted April 8, 2015 Share #117 Posted April 8, 2015 I hope it works out. In my case it was an idea born out of necessity as I found myself without a good way to hang the films, but I find that it works really well. Btw, I can relate to the batch development. I have recently worked myself through a stack of about 40 rolls shot. br Philip That would be a very, very long weekend without seeing the sun once. As I do a hybrid workflow and print 100% digital, I would look forward in horror, scanning those 40 rolls. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonnyboy Posted April 9, 2015 Author Share #118 Posted April 9, 2015 thanks so much for all the replies, there is so many precious information on here! I went to Silverprint today to buy the loot....but many things was sold out, gutted!! I guess I will have to wait the next stock...the staff over there is extremely helpful there was a lady who spent a good half hours talking to me and explaining me the different options, with breakdown of the cost and everything, amazing! Left buying a bunch of Tri-X rolls which I never tried before...couldnt leave with empty hands! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonnyboy Posted April 9, 2015 Author Share #119 Posted April 9, 2015 The problem I have with external lightmeters is that it takes more time to shoot, there is no real alternative to TTL especially if you shoot street photography or nature, the right moment can escape after you move your eye out of the viewfinder...of course that's my opinion, other cameraslingers can shoot faster than me even with an external meter. However I add here some shots I've taken with my M3 and IIIb that were not metered, I hope you'll like it and consider exposure "guessing" feasible: http://i59.tinypic.com/15otso1.jpg http://i59.tinypic.com/im3ytj.jpg http://i62.tinypic.com/29przas.jpg http://i58.tinypic.com/28ukw3.jpg http://i57.tinypic.com/11wc16p.jpg http://i59.tinypic.com/x1da2s.jpg http://i61.tinypic.com/21eueyx.jpg For the chemicals I can't be of much help as at the moment I can't develop in house, however if you're going to London perhaps it's worth of visiting West End Camera in Tottenham Court Road, another shop for analog film. Nice shots! Nice exposure, considering those contrasty situation! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbealnz Posted April 12, 2015 Share #120 Posted April 12, 2015 How did you get on Jonnyboy? We lost a few threads in the change-over. Did you process the next few rolls OK?Gary Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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