Lightmeter in the M6 and MP

[Jessestr]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

Hi guys

 

How does the lightmeter in the M6 behave? Is it like a spotmeter on the center patch or mid-average or? My incident metering failed a bit last time with my external meter (Minolta IVF) and my black & whites turned out a stop underexposed. My lab suggested I should measure reflected for b/w and use a spot meter or the internal meter of the camera.

 

So I rarely use the M6's meter. Also what kind of meter is in the MP?

 

I know it's as big as the circle on the shutter.. but maybe it has a sort of falloff?

 

Thanks!

 

Jesse

Edited May 7, 2014 by Jessestr

[Advertisement]

The Leica Q3 is available for pre-order at B&H Photo Video and Adorama

[Michael Geschlecht]

Hello Jessestr.

 

Welcome to the Forum.

 

The light meter in an M6 is a semi spot meter which is metering more or less of a circle with a diameter which is approximately 2/3 of the height of the SHORTER SIDE of the FRAME IN USE.

 

The actual area covered by the meter varies somewhat as the lens is focussed nearer & farther.

 

It is a good idea to focus on the area you are metering while you meter it. Then recompose appropriately & refocus the picture. This is to adjust for possible metering parallax error.

 

Best Regards,

 

Michael

[Jessestr]

Hello Jessestr.

 

Welcome to the Forum.

 

The light meter in an M6 is a semi spot meter which is metering more or less of a circle with a diameter which is approximately 2/3 of the height of the SHORTER SIDE of the FRAME IN USE.

 

The actual area covered by the meter varies somewhat as the lens is focussed nearer & farther.

 

It is a good idea to focus on the area you are metering while you meter it. Then recompose appropriately & refocus the picture. This is to adjust for possible metering parallax error.

 

Best Regards,

 

Michael

 

Thanks, it's just when I try the meter it gives me somewhat unexpected results (they are okay in terms of expsure), but I can't seem to find out how and where the lights falls on the white spot. I'll try it again and keep "approximately 2/3 of the height of the SHORTER SIDE of the FRAME IN USE." in mind.

[xalo]

Hi Jessestr,

 

Also see the manual for either camera, it provides a visual indication of Michael's advice and some short intro to metering. If you don't have it, try here, for example: Leica M6, Leica M6 TTL instruction manual, user manual, PDF manual, free manuals

You will also want to make sure that you meter properly for your subject. Like all lightmeters, the film Ms semi-spot meter indicates proper exposure for the equivalent of a medium grey, which may or may not be a dominant part of the metered area.

 

Cheers,

Alexander

[Michael Geschlecht]

Hello Again Jessestr,

 

A standard light meter reads a surface & suggests an exposure for an AVERAGE subject. That light meter ASSUMES that an average subject reflects 18% of the light falling on it.

 

When you meter a slightly lighter area with MORE than 18% reflectivity you have to slightly INCREASE the suggested exposure. When you meter a slightly darker area with LESS than 18% reflectivity you have to DECRASE the suggested exposure.

 

It sounds backwards but it really works.

 

There have been many books written over the years on the subject of exposure determination.

 

1 way to approximate appropriate exposure is to find a subject to meter that is average in reflectivity, more or less fills the metering area & is in the same light as the intended subject. Meter that substitute area & then refocus & recompose your photo with the original subject using the substitute exposure reading.

 

Another way to make a substitute reading is to find 2 or more adjacent areas that approximate an average scene when their light & dark portions are averaged together. Meter those adjacent areas together. Include or exclude portions of the lighter & darker areas appropriately so that you end up metering a net average subject. Make sure your substitute metering area is in the same light as your intended subject. Then, after metering: Recompose & refocus your intended subject using the substute exposure reading.

 

In actuality: It is not as hard to do as it appears to be from reading this.

 

You might practice on various theoretical subjects when you are not actually photographing things.

 

As someone once said: The more you practice the luckier you get.

 

Which is actually mathematically accurate.

 

Also: Don't forget to ask more questions.

 

Best Regards,

 

Michael

Edited May 7, 2014 by Michael Geschlecht

[Michael Geschlecht]

Hello Jessestr,

 

That is curious about your Minolta IVF.

 

Generally, metering with an incident meter is easier than metering with a reflected light meter. Whether average, semi-spot or spot.

 

All you do is point the meter sensor from the subject to the camera & push the button.

 

Sometimes when doing portraits I ask the subject to hold the meter so they can read it. I have already pre-set the meter within parameters. I ask them to rotate the hemisphere toward the camera. Then I ask them to push the button. Then I ask them what the meter says. Easy.

 

Much easier than reflected light reading in many situations.

 

It is usually a simple & accurate way to determine exposure much of the time.

 

Best Regards,

 

Michael

[Jessestr]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

Thanks for the comments. I looked at the manual.It makes more sense now. Also going to try a spot meter very soon to see what fits my needs.