ND filter or slower film?

[Jessestr]

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Hi all

 

Currently shooting Tri-X 400 & Portra 400 most of the time. As I was shooting in bright sun last days I had to put my aperture to f8 / f11 to be able to take pictures with my M6 which weren't overexposed.

 

As for color I might just buy Portra 160 but as for black and white I love Tri-X so much. Would it be good to get me a 2-stop ND filter when working in brighter conditions? so I can put the aperture more open? Really need it for my portraits.

 

Or would slower film be a better option?

 

Many thanks

[NJH]

How much do you like grain? I have fallen in love with Fuji Acros as my sunny day film because whilst it has grain its really fine and velvety even scanned. It has less fuzzy gritty grain in a scan than Porta 400 for example in my experience thus far, even though the grain is always apparent. I guess this last part is why we love B&W film.

[kdriceman]

I would say that if you love Tri X get the neutral density filter. You might try shooting the TriX at 320 or even 200 (with the associated developing adjustments) to see if you like the result.

 

I generally use TMax 100 in bright conditions and I really like the results. But it is a different look than TriX.

 

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[Jessestr]

I love Fuji Acros too it's just € 3/ roll for Tri-X 400 and about € 5.90 / roll for Fuji Acros. So over time I would save money with the ND filter. And as I like to support Kodak & Ilford because they are still innovating in their film products as Fuji is discontinuing everything... So when I'm getting used to Acros and they will discontinue I'll have to get an ND filter or transfer to Ilford ... Just thinking long term.

 

How much do you like grain? I have fallen in love with Fuji Acros as my sunny day film because whilst it has grain its really fine and velvety even scanned. It has less fuzzy gritty grain in a scan than Porta 400 for example in my experience thus far, even though the grain is always apparent. I guess this last part is why we love B&W film.

[NJH]

There still seems to be plenty available, I bought a 10x pack recently dated mid 2015. If we get into 2015 and they are not selling film dated 2016 then I will start worrying but not buying the film is a sure fire way to get them to stop making it.

 

Have you tried FP4? I haven't but its often suggested as a traditional looking film at that speed.

[aesop]

...Jessestr, if there is sufficient light, try going 'down' to FP4 @ 125 or even Pan F @ 50. Nothing wrong with loving Tri-X, but it is difficult to argue for going ice-skating with rugby boots on (if you really want to skate, that is). Knock out one roll and see what your lenses are truly capable of producing. Enjoy.

[Jessestr]

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I don't know why but I'm scared to try Ilford films. I don't feel attracted to the look of them. Will get fuji acros 100 and if I run out I'll use and ND filter

[andybarton]

I use Tri-X at 320 in lower light and Ilford Delta 100 in brighter conditions. I do have Pan F+ in the freezer too and both Ilford films are really very nice indeed.

 

I have shot HP5+ recently, which is a old-school film like Tri-X, but it isn't quite the same.

 

There is nothing to be scared of in using a different film. What do you have to lose?

[Jessestr]

I use Tri-X at 320 in lower light and Ilford Delta 100 in brighter conditions. I do have Pan F+ in the freezer too and both Ilford films are really very nice indeed.

 

I have shot HP5+ recently, which is a old-school film like Tri-X, but it isn't quite the same.

 

There is nothing to be scared of in using a different film. What do you have to lose?

 

I don't have the "play time" unless I do some test shoots. I want to keep my work as consistent as possible in both color as b/w. If I change and try other films I have to get used to them and that my affect what I'm doing.

[andybarton]

Fair enough.

[chris_livsey]

I don't have the "play time" unless I do some test shoots. I want to keep my work as consistent as possible in both color as b/w. If I change and try other films I have to get used to them and that my affect what I'm doing.

 

It would seem to be obvious given these constraints that Nd filters are the way you need to go.

Personally I love "play time" and have probably used over different ten B/W films in the last 6 months and four or five developers. They all have their own characteristics which i enjoy exploring.

[StS]

Apparently, Tri-X can be pulled down to 50 ASA in D76, for example (I haven't tried it yet). You'll lose grain.

 

Personally, I go for low-speed film in bright sunlight.

 

Stefan

[Jessestr]

Going to get myself a few rolls of just about everything maybe. To play around with, it's part of the fun I guess. But not on my actual work. Will see if I find some new films that I like

 

Thanks for the responses !!

 

It would seem to be obvious given these constraints that Nd filters are the way you need to go.

Personally I love "play time" and have probably used over different ten B/W films in the last 6 months and four or five developers. They all have their own characteristics which i enjoy exploring.

[andybarton]

Part of the attraction, for me, of using film, especially black and white, is the almost infinite combination of film and developers available, even today.

 

Such a wide variety if outputs, simply not available to those who use a single sensor for every shot, regardless of what SilverEfex Pro would have you believe.

[Broadside]

IM(not so)HO, for bright, sunny days, nothing can beat Ilford Pan F @ 50asa.

[fotohuis]

What do you think of RPX-25 on E.I. 25-50?

[Broadside]

I've never tried it - I must look out for a roll.

[VictoriaC]

Aaaargh! I was typing away a reply on my iPad and lost it all! Right, start again...

Hello,

I'm currently shooting TriX at 320 or 400 and CineStill at 800 though I also shot a roll at 1600 last month. The ND filter sounds like a marvel which I had heard about but never paid real attention to until now.

Would the team please recommend a strength? So far I've found B+W and Heliopan filters online at various strengths but no variable ND filter as mentioned above in 39mm. Do you use an adaptor and if so which size are you buying?

Thank you.

 

Ps Broadside, I really like your Flickr feed but where's Chicken Town? Or do you live in KFC type takeaway? ;-p (sorry, not a dig, just being silly).

[Broadside]

Ps Broadside, I really like your Flickr feed but where's Chicken Town? Or do you live in KFC type takeaway? ;-p (sorry, not a dig, just being silly).

 

Many thanks Victoria - Urban legend says Chicken Town by John Cooper Clarke is inspired by Stevenage in Hertfordshire which is my nearest big town.

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Hallo,

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[fotohuis]

I am using a Heliopan/Rodenstock ND 0,6 filter (2F stops) but on my 1/500s fastest speed camera's like the C.V. Bessa III 667 and some FSU RF camera's (FED-3, Zorki-6). They all, have 40,5mm thread so that's very easy.

You can also use it on the Rodenstock Rodagon enlarger lenses when I am printing RA-4 color in my darkroom. Actual RA-4 color papers (Fuji/Kodak) are pretty sensitive.