hoppyman Posted April 12, 2014 Share #21 Posted April 12, 2014 Advertisement (gone after registration) Jason the important thing of course is that your lenses and body work together. Your eyesight, your technique, the adjustment of the sensor positioning, that of the RF and that of the lenses all potentially affect each other. Everything needs to be within tolerances and interchangeable of course. I can comment that my M (typ 240) and Summilux M 50 ASPH. were calibrated together after impact damage. The body was tested, measured and adjusted to completion before the lens was serviced. They came back adjusted to perfection in my testing. The LiveView function is an invaluable tool to see what any lens is actually doing at any aperture and distance as well. Assuming a correctly calibrated body, it provides complete confidence that everything else is correct when you do your part. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted April 12, 2014 Posted April 12, 2014 Hi hoppyman, Take a look here Mount to sensor distance. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
wlaidlaw Posted April 12, 2014 Share #22 Posted April 12, 2014 I agree with Geoff about Live View for lens checking. It enabled me to see within a few seconds, that the new Nocticlux I bought last year was not correct. It also helped me to check that the 1931 Nickel Elmar that came on my Leica Standard, was focusing to scale (essential for a lens used on a Leica without a rangefinder). Much easier than using the Nikon scaled focus charts and then pixel peeping on a large screen or printing to large size. Wilson Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrh68uk Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share #23 Posted April 12, 2014 Absolutely. Live view has saved an awful lot of camera-computer-camera-.... swapping whilst testing, although it's still been necessary at times. I was so excited when I bought the 50 'lux but I could see immediately with live view that the RF and sensor didn't agree. If I tried my hardest to focus with the RF so that it was barely co- incident when turning from one direction only, I'd just about get ok focus but it was at the very edge, with the area just in front being pin sharp. It was all a bit hit and miss and, as I said at the start, none of the three lenses would actually reach long distance (effective infinity) as far as sharpness was concerned, although according to the RF they were there when at their infinity stops. Now, not only are they all very noticeably sharper at effective infinity, the RF is bang on, too. And I can be sloppier, relatively speaking, with the 'lux and the area of sharpness is where I want it to be. Thanks for all your comments and reassurances. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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