01af Posted March 9, 2017 Share #81 Posted March 9, 2017 Advertisement (gone after registration) See http://lightmetervs.com/sekonic-l-758dr-vs-l-758d-light-meter-or-digital-master/ Thanks for trying but that web page is just rubbish. Meanwhile, I found out myself: the L758DR has an integrated wireless flash radio triggering system while in the L758D, it's an optional accessory. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted March 9, 2017 Posted March 9, 2017 Hi 01af, Take a look here Who still uses a handheld meter?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Steve Ricoh Posted March 9, 2017 Share #82 Posted March 9, 2017 Great choice in and away from the studio. The L758DR is especially useful if you use a digital camera for landscape photography and take the time to calibrate the meter with your camera. I noticed today that the camera and 758 are out of step with each other. I was hoping not to have to buy the exposure profile target which seems rather over priced. But hey ho! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
honcho Posted March 9, 2017 Share #83 Posted March 9, 2017 I noticed today that the camera and 758 are out of step with each other. I was hoping not to have to buy the exposure profile target which seems rather over priced. But hey ho! That's the point of the L-758DR! There's far more to hand held metering for digital than simply pointing an L-308 Flashmate in roughly the right direction and hoping for the best. The CCP is invaluable and once you've calibrated your camera, you might find your approach to metering has changed considerably. It's a brilliant bit of kit. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted March 9, 2017 Share #84 Posted March 9, 2017 (edited) Thanks for trying but that web page is just rubbish. I don't know what you wished from the page but it does make the differences perfectly clear. To address the lightmeter question, since moving to the M7 and M9 for miniature format I find no need whatsoever for a handheld meter unless metering flash (including flash bulbs). For MF or larger, of course is it necessary. Edited March 9, 2017 by pico Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Ricoh Posted March 10, 2017 Share #85 Posted March 10, 2017 That's the point of the L-758DR! There's far more to hand held metering for digital than simply pointing an L-308 Flashmate in roughly the right direction and hoping for the best. The CCP is invaluable and once you've calibrated your camera, you might find your approach to metering has changed considerably. It's a brilliant bit of kit. Having acquired the L-758 and as a consequence having read about exposure, I'm now becoming aware how little I really knew about the topic in the first place. It's convinced me that I need to calibrate the camera and light meter, and quite importantly to think about how I want to express the scene in front of the lens. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted March 10, 2017 Share #86 Posted March 10, 2017 (edited) Having acquired the L-758 and as a consequence having read about exposure, I'm now becoming aware how little I really knew about the topic in the first place. It's convinced me that I need to calibrate the camera and light meter, and quite importantly to think about how I want to express the scene in front of the lens. Light meter use is fundamentally very simple. Later handheld models simply add bullshit capabilities which only add to confusion. There is nothing they can add after simple measurement that we cannot calculate in our head. An exception might be flash readings. . Edited March 10, 2017 by pico Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest )-( Posted March 10, 2017 Share #87 Posted March 10, 2017 Advertisement (gone after registration) I mostly use a Gossen Sixtomat and incident metering. I use the Aperture Priority mode as a guide, irrespective of varying aperture or shutter speed. the joy of clicks. I find myself using in camera reflective metering less and less, if at all. An older version of this: http://focusmedia.nl/uploads/uploads/gossen/gossen_sixtomat_f2/sixtomat-f2_large.jpg I used to have an M7 and use Auto - point it at the scene, 'dip' the meter into the area that worked for metering, hold shutter speed with light shutter press, then recompose. I don't miss doing this. Light doesn't seem to change as much as I thought it did, or my standards have lowered, same outcome anyway. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ko.Fe. Posted March 10, 2017 Share #88 Posted March 10, 2017 Sekonic L208 for my electronics free film rangefinders. I have enough electronics in my digital M cameras. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted March 10, 2017 Share #89 Posted March 10, 2017 About $100 USD. Hahahahahah Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted March 10, 2017 Share #90 Posted March 10, 2017 I use that Sekonic 758DR for reading flash output plus metering for 120 and large format film....................its the dogs bollocks of meters :) When using it for flash I like the fact that it will give you an percentage of flash compared to ambulance light...........I ame for 20 to 30% Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
honcho Posted March 10, 2017 Share #91 Posted March 10, 2017 Having acquired the L-758 and as a consequence having read about exposure, I'm now becoming aware how little I really knew about the topic in the first place. It's convinced me that I need to calibrate the camera and light meter, and quite importantly to think about how I want to express the scene in front of the lens. Your metering method will likely change once you've calibrated. If landscape photgraphy is what you do, there's nothing wrong with the old machine gun bracketing approach that you have to do with more simplistic light metering methods, but there's nothing much to recommend it either when there is a better way. At the very least it's useful to know exactly where your camera begins clipping shadows and highlights. The histogram doesn't always give you the full story and if you get into stitching panoramics, you'll definitely benefit from calibrated metering. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Ricoh Posted March 10, 2017 Share #92 Posted March 10, 2017 Light meter use is fundamentally very simple. Later handheld models simply add bullshit capabilities which only add to confusion. There is nothing they can add after simple measurement that we cannot calculate in our head. An exception might be flash readings. . With the meter I'm finding I'm thinking more about the key tone in the scene, and having spot metered for the key tone, deciding whether I want to underexposed or overexposed the middle grey reading obtained. I suppose an experienced 'tog can do this in their heads, but for me the meter is an educational tool. I'm not sure I could do this with the M240's in-built light meter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted March 10, 2017 Share #93 Posted March 10, 2017 When using a Leica digital camera that all have a histogram and LCD............why not just use the histogram and compensate up or down as needed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Ricoh Posted March 10, 2017 Share #94 Posted March 10, 2017 When using a Leica digital camera that all have a histogram and LCD............why not just use the histogram and compensate up or down as needed. That's one way, but it spells trial and error for me. I'm not a salesperson for Sekonic so I'm not advocating it's for everyone, but having one could make the individual think harder before pressing the shutter release. I used to take multiple shots but it really annoyed me to have to edit out the crap. I think it's better to have one image you're happy with, exposed as you wish. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 10, 2017 Share #95 Posted March 10, 2017 That's one way, but it spells trial and error for me. I'm not a salesperson for Sekonic so I'm not advocating it's for everyone, but having one could make the individual think harder before pressing the shutter release. I used to take multiple shots but it really annoyed me to have to edit out the crap. I think it's better to have one image you're happy with, exposed as you wish. Fully agreed, I have a Twinmate 208 for the times I need to use it. Button cell lasts for ages. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
honcho Posted March 10, 2017 Share #96 Posted March 10, 2017 When using a Leica digital camera that all have a histogram and LCD............why not just use the histogram and compensate up or down as needed. Why not learn something about your camera instead? You have an L-758DR but you don't seem to understand it's full potential. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted March 10, 2017 Share #97 Posted March 10, 2017 Why not learn something about your camera instead? You have an L-758DR but you don't seem to understand it's full potential. my meter does what I want it to do. I have no need to bog my head down with technical BS. I just like to take pictures with the minimal of fuss. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
honcho Posted March 10, 2017 Share #98 Posted March 10, 2017 my meter does what I want it to do. I have no need to bog my head down with technical BS. I just like to take pictures with the minimal of fuss. That's fair enough. As I said earlier, the dumb approach is fine, but the L-758DR can do much more. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
EoinC Posted March 10, 2017 Share #99 Posted March 10, 2017 I have a L-758D for spot metering, but prefer my L-398A for 95+% of the time. Being genetically lazy, I particularly love the EV scale for the magic EV lock on my Hasselblads (Smart man, that Victor). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted March 10, 2017 Share #100 Posted March 10, 2017 I have a L-758D for spot metering, but prefer my L-398A for 95+% of the time. Being genetically lazy, I particularly love the EV scale for the magic EV lock on my Hasselblads (Smart man, that Victor). Eoin, I've just started using the EV function of the L758DR with my Blad and its so so frigging easy to use, Ive also used my SL to get the best reading for the Blad :) 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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