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Who still uses a handheld meter?


NZDavid

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Tempting. And dirt cheap on eBay. It doesn't have a 'dome', is that a drawback? 

 It has a "dome", a slip on translucent screen, which one cans see in the picture.

Keep in mind these selenium light meters are not the best for low light eg inside lighting. But for daytime they work very well.

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An incident meter should be placed on the subject with the dome pointing at the camera. You can get away with taking a reading at the camera position if the light at the subject is identical.

Edited by pico
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It is used like this! Exceptions are  obvious - where the scene, especially a flat-lit scenic has the same light falling on your meter (held vertically) at the camera. Oi, the errors with light meter applications amaze me.

 

I have a middle initial, 'B' which stands for Bracket.

.

Edited by pico
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I use a Sekonic L-558r that I've had for probably 10 years when I am doing any kind of studio work or I pack my hasselblad. But if I'm just out shooting on film I just use an app on my phone to get a base reading and shoot with those settings until the light changes dramatically. 

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I use a Sekonic L-558r that I've had for probably 10 years when I am doing any kind of studio work or I pack my hasselblad. But if I'm just out shooting on film I just use an app on my phone to get a base reading and shoot with those settings until the light changes dramatically. 

 

 

Which app is that? And do you use it with one of those white lumi-dome attachments?

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Which app is that? And do you use it with one of those white lumi-dome attachments?

I just have stuck to this one even though other options have shown up with nicer user interfaces: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/pocket-light-meter/id381698089?mt=8

It does exactly what I need it to do and based on film results it's proven itself to be fairly accurate. 

 

I don't have any attachments, I just meter the back of my hand in whichever lighting environment I'm shooting in and then use that as my baseline setting on my camera (and adjust from there as needed)

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An incident meter should be placed on the subject with the dome pointing at the camera. You can get away with taking a reading at the camera position if the light at the subject is identical.

 

Correct - I just take a reading from where I'm standing if the light is consistent. 

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Sekonic L398A.

 

Apart from how useful it is, and the fact that it doesn't need batteries, it is also a beautifully-made object that is a pleasure to use. A Leica amongst light-meters.

 

Sekonic Light Meter: L-398A Studio Deluxe III Exposure Meter - Overview (A link to Sekonik's own site.)

 

Agreed ....... perfect meter to accompany my M4 and MA -- become quite fast with it as well

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  • 2 weeks later...

I use the meter in my MP and don't double check it against a hand held.

However, I use a Sekonic L308 in incident mode with my M2. I actually enjoy metering separately and shooting without the red triangles :)

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by Mute-on
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  • 9 months later...

Just purchased a Sekonic 758DR, early days yet as only arrived the day before.

One thing annoying, why only one lens cap supplied when there are two optics in the reflected pathway, either can get damaged.

Not using flash so no immediate intention to use it for anything other than incident or reflected in daylight - just wondering how long the battery will last. (I know it's a bit like the length of string, thing).

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Just purchased a Sekonic 758DR....

 

Great choice in and away from the studio.  The L758DR is especially useful if you use a digital camera for landscape photography and take the time to calibrate the meter with your camera.

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