Echo63 Posted December 6, 2015 Share #21 Posted December 6, 2015 Advertisement (gone after registration) Jack - to balance that golden late arfternoon sun, you would need one of the CTO or CTS gel family (Colour Temp Orange, and Colour Temp Straw - straw isnt as red as orange) I would suggest 1/8 or 1/4 to start with. Rosco made a gel pack that contained a small piece (big enough to cover most speedlights) of a bunch of different colour correction gels - from memory it was called the strobist sampler pack. Should be a good place to start. Brill64 - what colour is the CTM gel ? I have only ever seen "Plusgreen" gel to correct flash to flourescent (with the appropriate magenta filter on the lens or correct WB applied) It used to be easy - now there is all sorts of different coloured flouros - warm white, cool white, daylight - each needing a different mix of gels to properly correct. If your an Iphone user - Lumu have just started a kickstarter for their latest plug in lightmeter, it does ambient, flash and has a colour meter too - so it can tell you the colour temperature of the lights you are working under. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted December 6, 2015 Posted December 6, 2015 Hi Echo63, Take a look here M240 & SF24D Flash. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
jack-tucker Posted December 6, 2015 Share #22 Posted December 6, 2015 Thanks, Jaap, Brill64 and Echo! This strobist sample pack sounds good. Regards, Florian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brill64 Posted December 7, 2015 Share #23 Posted December 7, 2015 iso 1250 + 1/160th or 1/15ths (will add more existing ambient light into the shot, giving a more natural look) or 1/125 (will freeze movement but give a more stark "flash-like" look). don't go above 1/125s on your m-240 using flash. try your flash at 1/3, 1/4, 1/2 power settings in manual & don't be afraid to make mistakes & re-take the shot. people won't mind & it's nothing to be scared of. placing a piece of folded tissue beneath the flash diffuser & dialing down to -2 or -3 flash eposure settings in ttl or auto can help with overexposure issues. what i really like about the sf24d is that the cr123a batteries last a really long time. use it off camera with a curly ttl cable or radio slave & you're guaranteed better results all round. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jack-tucker Posted December 7, 2015 Share #24 Posted December 7, 2015 ... don't be afraid to make mistakes & re-take the shot. people won't mind & it's nothing to be scared of. placing a piece of folded tissue beneath the flash diffuser & dialing down to -2 or -3 flash eposure settings in ttl or auto can help with overexposure issues. what i really like about the sf24d is that the cr123a batteries last a really long time. use it off camera with a curly ttl cable or radio slave & you're guaranteed better results all round. That sounds really motivating, thank you So far, when I used this little flash, I got some ok results. But indeed, I don't feel all to confident with using flash - probably one of the main reasons why I mostly have tried to avoid it. (One other factor which often, but not always is valid for me, is being as discreet as possible.) I guess, regarding off camera flash, the best is, to focus as usual, put flash in position and slightly move head and body to bring the camera back in focus without having to touch the focus ring again. (One of the very few situations where I think auto focus could be superior... but probably a matter of training.) While I have started with film, I never used flash at that time. I admire those people who have learned that by using film. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brill64 Posted December 8, 2015 Share #25 Posted December 8, 2015 there's a lot of technical jargon but in the end good application & results boils down to a little practice & learning from inevitable successes & cataclysmic mistakes. using the folded tissue trick & dialling down flash exposure gives a more subtle blip of fill light instead of a huge blanketing white pop that leaves people dazed. try that for starters & adjust your iso up & down until you find a consistent look that is pleasing to you. lots of luck & post some results!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jack-tucker Posted December 9, 2015 Share #26 Posted December 9, 2015 brill64, thanks again. I will post some pictures, but it will take some time. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRIago Posted December 12, 2015 Share #27 Posted December 12, 2015 Advertisement (gone after registration) I own both sf24 and sf58. On M8 and M9 I never had an issue with both. On M240, first firmware had some bugs, corrected in a newer release. Now sf58 is perfect, but sf24 still shows some exposures issues in TTL. I mainly use sf24 in tungsten lit interiors with 3/4 CTO gels in manual mode. -1 2/3 stop, F5,6, 1/30 ISO 200, 35 lens to shoot party Without gels, - 2 1/3 stops If the subject is closer, I stop down, the reversal for people far away. I think this is the best way to get natural colors, merged with the background and 100% perfect exposures. Try, you will realize how fast can be shooting in manual mode. Forget about TTL. Know your stuff and you get the best out of it. Franco I agree. Once you master it, there's no coming back. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.