Tips on lens coding

[mboerma]

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Hey,

 

I've have spent many hours trying to code my 24mm Elmarit lens. I don't seem to get it working. I've tried using the template of Bob Blakley, after that I've used the method with markings on a piece of tape (like Mike Prevette showed in his pictures in the proof of concept).

 

I don't think it is the placement of the markings. I also tried coding it like a Summilux-M 50mm f/1.4 ASPH which has a very simple code (100000) using different frames in the viewfinder. Lens detection is on, but no data in the info field during play back.

 

Could it be possible that the leds are not working? How can I check without having to get a new coded lens? Should the led come on when I take a photograph? Can somebody please verify?

 

Thanks very much for your help!

 

Regards,

Maarten

[jaapv]

I often fail in hand-coding, one must get a bit lucky. Why don't you just get your lens coded? There is no need to buy a new one. Oh- and did you switch on "lens detection"in the menu? Sorry for asking...

Edit: saw that in the post. The coding must match the position of the frame detection lever. So coding a 24 as a 50 for instance will definitely not work.

[mboerma]

Jaap,

 

I saw I message somewhere on the forum that it should be possible to "manually select" the right frame corresponding to the lens. So I marked a lens as a summilux 50 (100000) and then took picture with the 50mm frame selected. Didn't work.

 

I know I can have my lenses coded but then I can't use them for some time. I wanted to try if this manual coding was a option and so I could to try if I would see any difference in the photos.

 

What are your experiences with the return time of a lens?

 

Thanks,

Maarten

[Guest Walt]

I believe that the "Sharpies" many are using for the markings use an ink with a sheen and that it is too reflective (and read as a white bar).

[jaapv]

Jaap,

 

I saw I message somewhere on the forum that it should be possible to "manually select" the right frame corresponding to the lens. So I marked a lens as a summilux 50 (100000) and then took picture with the 50mm frame selected. Didn't work.

 

I know I can have my lenses coded but then I can't use them for some time. I wanted to try if this manual coding was a option and so I could to try if I would see any difference in the photos.

 

What are your experiences with the return time of a lens?

 

Thanks,

Maarten

I had my lenses coded way back in July 2006 and it took three weeks then. I suppose you could call Leica in Solms and ask them what the turnaround time is now. Going direct is always faster than through a shop/importer chain. BTW I don't think manually coding lenses is much of an option. I did a few using a CD writing pen and it always wore off in a few days. For those lenses I simply do not bother marking them any more.

[chetccox]

I have the 24mm 2.8 elmarit asph and successfully coded it in about 1 minute. I used the sharpie. There are 3 black marks needed and two of them are together so this position can be coded with one big mark. The template really doesn't fit very well and allows room for error. You can visually line up the sensor positions and put small black marks on the outer rim of the camera lens mount. Then put the lens on and do the same thing, lining up the small black marks (you really only need one or two). Then put the template on and make sure it lines up with the marks. Make one mark to cover the two sensor positions and then simply draw the other one on. I have done this with 3 lenses (a 50 cron, 24 elmarit, and 90 cron) and all worked perfectly in 1 minute each. As was previously mentioned, make sure lens detection is turned on (I am sure you have it on). I'll be in Amsterdam next Wednesday and could do it for you but you should have no trouble. I find the little alcohol wipes that come in the plastic bottle where they pull out of the top work great for removing any mistakes or extra marks. Probably genever and toilet paper would do the same thing.

[chetccox]

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It is certainly possible that your sensors are not working. Take your camera in to the local Leica dealer and try one of his lenses that are coded. This way you will know for sure.

[Shootist]

I also have a un-coded 24 f/2.8 Elmarit that I have spent hours/days trying to hand code with NO luck, except the first day I got it. The first day I took it out of the box and quickly marked the spots for the black and took a shot. Looked at the info of the file and there is was "24mm". Later that day I took several more shots, never removed the lens from the camera, and when looking at the info screen there was NO lens info. Since then I have tried many, many, many times, even made my own template using a macro shot of a coded lens, importing it into a CAD program and printing it out to 1:1 scale, and have never been able to get the camera to see this lens.

I will be sending it to Leica NJ for coding with one of my vouchers very shortly.

[mboerma]

Ok, so it might be a matter of luck. But it could also be the markers I'm using. They probably should not be to reflective black. I did try several different brands and removed them using a whiteboard marker and some tissue.

 

I'll give it another try tonight of try another lens first.

 

Chet, if I could use your help next week I'll let you know, thanks for the offer.

 

Maarten

[Guest V64]

Hi all

 

I have successfully done my Biogon 25mm and CV 15mm, and after much trial and error I would make the following points.

 

1. I think some clearance is required between the emiiter/sensor strip and the face of the Mount, there is some but if it is too tight then the IR cannot be transmitted between the emitter and sensor 'over the wall between the two'. I had to mill pockets/wells in the lens mounts.

 

2. Even with milled wells I found that the right 'black' is critical. We dont see Sharpies as such in the UK. In another thread an Edding 8400 CD Pen was recommended. I used Chinese 'black artist ink', all my other pens (Staedtler, Lumograph, Bic CD markers all failed). I also used white nail varnish'.

 

I also found that the WATE coding (on my CV15) with a 135mm Adapter, is not recognised unlesss the Frame Selector is 50mm or 90mm. But the new Firmware (1.102) means that I csn use the 135mm Adaptor - with only minor inconvenience when selecting the 'Wate focal length'.

 

Hope this helps

 

David H

[mboerma]

Tried another lens, a 35 cron asph which has a real simple code 0111110 so not too many mistakes can be made. I'll go and investigate more markers. Maybe letting the ink dry a little longer then a few minutes will also help.

 

Maarten

[chetccox]

Maarten

 

I am in Poland so I go to Amsterdam frequently. I am going to the US for 4 days next week and will be in Amsterdam Wednesday. I often go the night before my US flight so I may be there Tuesday evening, probably at the Kras or Golden Tulip across from the train station. I have several extra sharpies as well, and would be happy to bring a few. I'll have my camera and lenses as well, so if I can help let me know (before I have any genever or beer).

[Hans Roggen]

Hi Maarten,

 

It's really quite easy as long as you don't try to use the template. It's a little off. I use and Edding 8400 cd marker. (You can get it at any office supply store. Got mine at Office Center, but you need a pass to get in). Just mark the 6 eyes in the bajonet on the side of the bajonet rim so you can see them when you put on your lens. Then put on your lens and mark the positions you need to color black on the side of the lens. Take off the lens and mark the spots you need for your particular lens. I just did my 35 cron asph. Letting the ink dry takes more time than coding the lens.

 

Succes ermee

 

Hans

[Woody Campbell]

I got my 28mm chron right the first try. No matter what I do I can't get my T-E right. Guess I'm going to have to bite the bullet and use my certificates.

[mboerma]

Certificates? For coding? Hmmm, have to go through the box then......

[bill vann]

i found any template i made was off user error (me)

 

what i did was actuall mark the edge of the mont on the camera, monunt the lens and put a corresponding mark on the edge of the lens, take it off and use that as the guide,

not problems since then, cv 15, 21, 28, 35 (2)

 

i used a sharpie

 

bill

[chetccox]

Certificates? For coding? Hmmm, have to go through the box then......

 

They were only offered in the US (and maybe Canada) We in Europe were not offered any free lens codings.

[mboerma]

Used an Edding 8400 CD marker and worked the first time!

 

Thanks for the tips! The LEDs are working!

 

Regards,

Maarten

[baloo]

i found any template i made was off user error (me)

 

what i did was actuall mark the edge of the mont on the camera, monunt the lens and put a corresponding mark on the edge of the lens, take it off and use that as the guide,

not problems since then, cv 15, 21, 28, 35 (2)

 

i used a sharpie

 

bill

 

 

Hi, what adapter did you use with your Voigtlander?

 

Thanks, Steve

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[wlaidlaw]

I got my Biogon 21 to code as a WATE just about first time today. Thought I was cooking with gas and then went on to the Biogon 35. I have now spent the rest of the day and I cannot get it to code as anything. Put the 21 back on and WATE 21 appears. Tried template and dot marking. Looked at various peoples photos of their coded lenses and scaled them with a digital calliper. Used same method for both and filled in screw holes with Tippex - one works; one doesn't - it beats me and I think I give up.

 

Wilson