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Buddha and orchid.

 

Ilford HP5 - 400

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From a test roll put through an Olympus OM2n + Zuiko 50mm Auto-S f1.8 last summer.  Tri-X & Rodinal.

 

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After b&w of Keith and Suede some balloon , in "relief" and in color :)  for Trev

 

 

Leica M7

50 LA

Kodak Portra 400

 

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Rg

Henry

 

 

 

 

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I tried again today with 20ºC C-41 development. This time I used 1+5 dilution of the colour developer (50ml of CD and 250ml water in a Paterson 35mm tank) for 50 minutes. I solved the surge marks from the sprocket holes that I got yesterday by using the swizzle stick for rotary agitation - 30 seconds every ten minutes. Followed with 6.5 minutes of blix at 20ºC and stabiliser. The negatives look a bit more like a normally developed film, but on scanning they still have a strong purple tint rather than the usual blue. Raw scans and inversion in ColorPerfect gets the colours just about spot on. Only very slight tweaks to colour temperature and tint were needed.

 

24190176670_2f2248a947_c.jpg

C-41 Semistand #13 by chrism229, on Flickr

 

24403329331_5d1c530f04_c.jpg

C-41 Semistand #12 by chrism229, on Flickr

 

24190185510_478b2ee2b1_c.jpg

C-41 Semistand #11 by chrism229, on Flickr

 

24403333341_af1a97f891_c.jpg

C-41 Semistand #10 by chrism229, on Flickr

 

I make no claims for the subjects; I simply needed to expose the film to play with the developing! And it's -10ºC outside, so I didn't care to go out more than I had to.

So it seems like a workable method, but with pouring, diluting, 50 minutes of development and agitating every ten minutes, it tied me to the kitchen sink for about an hour and a half. Now this isn't quicker than heating the solutions in a water bath followed by the standard quick development, and at least I can go and do something else while the solutions warm up. Standard development also means I can scan with the X1 (which is quick) and get good colours. These need the magic of ColorPerfect, which means slow raw scans on the Nikon. I'll probably go back to 39ºC development, but it was fun to experiment.

 

Chris

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I know it's human nature to tinker, it certainly is in this country, but maybe there is a reason the manufacturers designed this process with these specific temperatures?

Having said that I have varied the temp and time with B&W occasionally. Fortunately right now the tap water seems to be a constant 20ºC.

Gary

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We are a bit on the edges Cartesian. For this reason, we try to look for...
In the case of the development of color film, Chris has been testing and I thank him

 

The manufacturer recommends 38 ° C at the beginning.
I have developed some rolls at this temperature and I wanted to change and develop at 30 ° C
I have always learned that a too high temperature can damage the products
whence my tests at 30 °. I continue to develop at 30°C
Chris wanted to try it first at 20 ° C as did RP. it apparently works for him.
I'll also try to get down to 20 ° C to see with my next roll but I need to think , taking account of Chris trials
Anyway thank you to Chris for this work.

Best

Henry

PS :  All my last color film posted above is dev at 30°C

Edited by Doc Henry
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The Tetenal liquid kit gives times for temperatures down to 20ºC, but the powdered presskit sold as Unicolor/Jobo/Tetenal does not. It does say that for roller-drum development you can go down to 75ºF/24ºC for 17.5 minutes - it only gives times for 102ºF/39ºC for manual tanks. Has anyone experience of using powdered chemicals at lower temps? Needless to say, I'm tempted to experiment further. I cannot buy the liquid Tetenal kit here in Canada (and I see B&H have just made the powdered presskits pick-up-in-store only. Sods.)

 

Chris

Edited by chrism
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I tried again today with 20ºC C-41 development. This time I used 1+5 dilution of the colour developer (50ml of CD and 250ml water in a Paterson 35mm tank) for 50 minutes. I solved the surge marks from the sprocket holes that I got yesterday by using the swizzle stick for rotary agitation - 30 seconds every ten minutes. Followed with 6.5 minutes of blix at 20ºC and stabiliser. The negatives look a bit more like a normally developed film, but on scanning they still have a strong purple tint rather than the usual blue. Raw scans and inversion in ColorPerfect gets the colours just about spot on. Only very slight tweaks to colour temperature and tint were needed.

 

24190176670_2f2248a947_c.jpg

C-41 Semistand #13 by chrism229, on Flickr

 

24403329331_5d1c530f04_c.jpg

C-41 Semistand #12 by chrism229, on Flickr

 

24190185510_478b2ee2b1_c.jpg

C-41 Semistand #11 by chrism229, on Flickr

 

24403333341_af1a97f891_c.jpg

C-41 Semistand #10 by chrism229, on Flickr

 

I make no claims for the subjects; I simply needed to expose the film to play with the developing! And it's -10ºC outside, so I didn't care to go out more than I had to.

So it seems like a workable method, but with pouring, diluting, 50 minutes of development and agitating every ten minutes, it tied me to the kitchen sink for about an hour and a half. Now this isn't quicker than heating the solutions in a water bath followed by the standard quick development, and at least I can go and do something else while the solutions warm up. Standard development also means I can scan with the X1 (which is quick) and get good colours. These need the magic of ColorPerfect, which means slow raw scans on the Nikon. I'll probably go back to 39ºC development, but it was fun to experiment.

 

Chris

 

Chris - amazing color palette.  very unique yet well balanced.  thanks for sharing your results and also for providing the insights into your workflow.

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wow, the power of this thread has shown me its full force!  A heartfelt thanks to everyone who took the time to indulge me and provide their objective opinion.   I have carefully mapped out the responses in Excel and taken note of all of the specific comments made.   

Subject to possiblly adding one or two to my flickr stream, I will put these aside for a couple of months and come back to them with hopefully less emotion and more objectivity.  

Thanks to everyone again for their time.

 

JM - The SWC is really a gem of a camera.  The Biogon lens is legendary and about as distortion-free as one can get.  And the way in which the lens sits especially close to the film is really quite unique.   I typically will not rely on the external VF that much and instead will do most of the framing with the ground glass and prism viewfinder (I use an old NC-2).  The prism provides a very clear and magnified view of what the lens is seeing and the frame lines allow for leveling, confirming focus and framing.    I would highly recommend that you look for a version with a multi-coated lens.  The earlier versions did not have this and you really want it for maximum color vibrancy.  Good luck and enjoy.

 

--Adam

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23753482103_222be487e6_b.jpgKonstanz by -Ric Capucho-

 

 

Contax T2 and the usual XP2.

 

This was taken on a car ferry as we were crossing Lake Constance (also known as the Bodensee) and I spotted another ferry coming the other way.

 

What the photo doesn't show is that it was bitterly cold, and because I'd jumped out of the car for a quick snap I didn't bother putting on a jacket. So I framed the shot in the view finder... and then realised I'd have to wait a couple of minutes because the ferry was a tiny spot in the distance.

 

By now people were looking out of their warn cars at the shirt-sleeved idiot with the funny old camera, and taking bets as to how long I'd last out there.

 

"Click", turned on my heel, and ran back and then into the car. Brrrrrrrr.

 

Wife and kids thought I was nuts. I *knew* I was nuts.

 

Ric

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23753482103_222be487e6_b.jpgKonstanz by -Ric Capucho-

 

 

Contax T2 and the usual XP2.

 

This was taken on a car ferry as we were crossing Lake Constance (also known as the Bodensee) and I spotted another ferry coming the other way.

 

What the photo doesn't show is that it was bitterly cold, and because I'd jumped out of the car for a quick snap I didn't bother putting on a jacket. So I framed the shot in the view finder... and then realised I'd have to wait a couple of minutes because the ferry was a tiny spot in the distance.

 

By now people were looking out of their warn cars at the shirt-sleeved idiot with the funny old camera, and taking bets as to how long I'd last out there.

 

"Click", turned on my heel, and ran back and then into the car. Brrrrrrrr.

 

Wife and kids thought I was nuts. I *knew* I was nuts.

 

Ric

 

Well done Ric. Well worth suffering for your art.

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The Tetenal liquid kit gives times for temperatures down to 20ºC, but the powdered presskit sold as Unicolor/Jobo/Tetenal does not. It does say that for roller-drum development you can go down to 75ºF/24ºC for 17.5 minutes - it only gives times for 102ºF/39ºC for manual tanks. Has anyone experience of using powdered chemicals at lower temps? Needless to say, I'm tempted to experiment further. I cannot buy the liquid Tetenal kit here in Canada (and I see B&H have just made the powdered presskits pick-up-in-store only. Sods.)

 

Chris

Chris, in France we can purchase Tetenal in liquid.

I did not know that it exists in powder

Best

Henry

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wow, the power of this thread has shown me its full force!  A heartfelt thanks to everyone who took the time to indulge me and provide their objective opinion.   I have carefully mapped out the responses in Excel and taken note of all of the specific comments made.   

Subject to possiblly adding one or two to my flickr stream, I will put these aside for a couple of months and come back to them with hopefully less emotion and more objectivity.  

Thanks to everyone again for their time.

 

--Adam

Adam, it's because we love you :D

You're doing great pictures  and that this thread is great for its contributors to enhance the film who deserves. :)

Best regards

Henry

Edited by Doc Henry
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Konstanz by -Ric Capucho-

 

 

Contax T2 and the usual XP2.

 

This was taken on a car ferry as we were crossing Lake Constance (also known as the Bodensee) and I spotted another ferry coming the other way.

 

What the photo doesn't show is that it was bitterly cold, and because I'd jumped out of the car for a quick snap I didn't bother putting on a jacket. So I framed the shot in the view finder... and then realised I'd have to wait a couple of minutes because the ferry was a tiny spot in the distance.

 

By now people were looking out of their warn cars at the shirt-sleeved idiot with the funny old camera, and taking bets as to how long I'd last out there.

 

"Click", turned on my heel, and ran back and then into the car. Brrrrrrrr.

 

Wife and kids thought I was nuts. I *knew* I was nuts.

 

Ric

 

 

They say that a picture says more than 1000 words, but sometimes a few words can be very revealing...

 

Rgds

 

C.

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Another way to see this tower , it's in Kodak TX 400 :)

and in contre-jour for Adam !

No correction  :)

 

MP-50 LA

 

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We have said "deep black" :)

and no banding please  :angry: 

 

Best

Henry

Edited by Doc Henry
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