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I took my balls out ( :rolleyes: ) a couple of years back, and have no problems. I have to use my fingertips to hold the film still in relation to each side of the reel as I turn the two sides, first on the left as I turn the right side back towards me, and then on the right so that the film goes along with the right side as I turn it away from me. Hope that makes sense. Clean fingers on the non-emulsion side of the film has not left any marks, and I never get the jams that sometimes happened when the balls locked up.

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I'm thinking about that I've seen several folks say that.the calcareous water can prevent the ball from rotating.

 

Puts the spire in white vinegar bought in supermarket.

If we remove the ball, how the film will move forward ?

Reason : if a spire is new , it turns well.

Best

Henry

Edited by Doc Henry
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And while I was digging in the basement, I found an old strip of FP4, from which these three are decent enough to make it onto the web (I know I won't get permission for the others!):

 

23908968566_2f3ec9b0a9_c.jpg

1979 #1 by chrism229, on Flickr

 

23852557381_cdbc9d27a4_c.jpg

1979 #2 by chrism229, on Flickr

 

23908966296_183c9becbb_c.jpg

1979 #3 by chrism229, on Flickr

Superb Chris , very well framing

Best

Henry

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My first roll of bulk loaded Ilford HP5+. Developed in Eco-Pro for 15.5 minutes at 17c.

 

I had a HORRIBLE Paterson plastic reel sticking problem and this roll of negs has been handled 10 times more than it should have...back and forth, on and off, bent, creased, and light-leaked.

 

However...I finally got it loaded and developed in the XTol substitute called "Eco-Pro" at 1:1.

 

I actually like how it came out...the grain is nice and it had adequate contrast and detail for as much hell as I put it through and being my first time developing with it.

 

This is a selfie in the bathroom mirror. I was on my way out, and it was cold :)

23558756829_35d0d0f33b_h.jpg

Also superb picture

I like the grain , beautiful

Best

Henry 

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Kodak Portra 400-M7-35 LA

 

Chenonceau and the river Cher

 

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Best

Henry

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I took my balls out ( :rolleyes: ) a couple of years back, and have no problems. I have to use my fingertips to hold the film still in relation to each side of the reel as I turn the two sides, first on the left as I turn the right side back towards me, and then on the right so that the film goes along with the right side as I turn it away from me. Hope that makes sense. Clean fingers on the non-emulsion side of the film has not left any marks, and I never get the jams that sometimes happened when the balls locked up.

Strange. I just took out the ball bearings on one reel and tried to roll a test roll and even without the bearings, it got really tough about half way through. Then I tried another type of plastic roll (with the real wide tabs) and it went fine.

 

I'm not sure what's happening but this doesn't inspire confidence for next time.

In any case...back to the images, I don't want to derail this thread.

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Paintings for sale.  Early June '92 at the Place du Tertre, Paris.   Ektar 100.

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Strange. I just took out the ball bearings on one reel and tried to roll a test roll and even without the bearings, it got really tough about half way through. Then I tried another type of plastic roll (with the real wide tabs) and it went fine.

 

I'm not sure what's happening but this doesn't inspire confidence for next time.

In any case...back to the images, I don't want to derail this thread.

 

Yeah. The wide flange reels (AP) work for me.

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Strange. I just took out the ball bearings on one reel and tried to roll a test roll and even without the bearings, it got really tough about half way through. Then I tried another type of plastic roll (with the real wide tabs) and it went fine.

 

I'm not sure what's happening but this doesn't inspire confidence for next time.

In any case...back to the images, I don't want to derail this thread.

The other thing to be sure of is that the reel is clean. Rinse thoroughly after use (if there is visible crud use an old toothbrush) and make sure they are completely dry before next use. Loading film reels is one of things where the more you do it, the easier it gets.

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I have told Suede that cameras pictures that rise in the high Isos distort more or less the atmosphere in which the photo was taken. :)
I post an example of photo taken in almost dark night without using any artifice , just a monopod.
Aperture 1.4 film KodakTX400 Isos. No need to push to 800 !

What I wanted to show here is these two ladies are meditating in a dark corner of our cathedral. What is important for me, these are the two faces, the rest does not interest me.
What it serves 25,000 Isos in this case, to see the detail of this place ? for what utility  ?
The atmosphere is perfectly reproduced without buying a camera that rises to 25,000 Isos which may distort this photo taken on the spot.

 

 

M7-35 Summilux Asph.

Kodak TX400

 

 

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I'll post another examples of bad light condition  , if you want. :)

 

Best

Henry

Edited by Doc Henry
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Chenonceau castle , the garden

 

 

Kodak Portra 400

M7-35 Lux Asph

 

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Henry

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Back to b&w. A summer view along the Ridgeway ancient track from Hackpen Hill, Wiltshire.  Taken this year with my Rolleicord Vb on FP4+.

 

 

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I have told Suede that cameras pictures that rise in the high Isos distort more or less the atmosphere in which the photo was taken. :)

I post an example of photo taken in almost dark night without using any artifice , just a monopod.

Aperture 1.4 film KodakTX400 Isos. No need to push to 800 !

What I wanted to show here is these two ladies are meditating in a dark corner of our cathedral. What is important for me, these are the two faces, the rest does not interest me.

What it serves 25,000 Isos in this case, to see the detail of this place ? for what utility  ?

The atmosphere is perfectly reproduced without buying a camera that rises to 25,000 Isos which may distort this photo taken on the spot.

 

 

M7-35 Summilux Asph.

Kodak TX400

 

 

attachicon.gifImage5cathcandlekodtx400lfht+++950cr.jpg

 

 

I'll post another examples of bad light condition  , if you want. :)

 

Best

Henry

Lovely blacks, just like the dark is. I don't know all the technical terminology how to describe what high iso does to impress a sensor, but it feels like all the electronics in the camera start squeezing the arm of the darkness so hard to record something (where there is nothing by way of light) that it begins to shudder with the effort, consequently besmirching the canvas with the speckles of its perspiration which manifest as noise.

Phew! 

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Great framing here.

 

This photo is one of my favorites from your New York b/w series. It is clear, balanced and almost three dimensional. You should make a large print of it!

best regards

Marc

Thanks, Trev and Marc. 

To me, this is a shot that doesn't require much effort, which is why it doesn't make the top of my list. And I feel that I haven't captured the right amount of cloud coverage to make it truly unique.

One interesting realization that I ultimately had, though, is that i will never be able to capture the entirety of each of the legs of the bridge (no matter how many times I go back and try).  The lens (which is effectively a 21mm in 35mm FL) is just not wide enough, and there isn't room to back up.  I thought this meant that I couldn't make an interesting photo, but after staring at this for a couple of months I think I was wrong.  It just needs more drama in the sky/clouds, and perhaps some ice in the water, and I will be satisfied :)

Thanks again.

adam

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NYC

Tri-X

M3

50 DR cron

 

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lovely grain, Marc :p

Where in Iran was this taken? :ph34r:

You made my day!  :D

But you are right Adam, it is a very very special and generous place. I really would like to say where it is, but I had to swear by my analog equipment that I will be as silent as the grave. The day where I sell all of my analog stuff, I will inform you about this place!! ;)

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