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Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS

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Guys

I've just made my first 8x10 contact print. I had some challenges along the way and wondered if anyone here can help me understand what happened.

 

The finished contact print looks amazing but to get it amazing I went from a 20 second with #3 filter plus 15 seconds with #5 filter. That print looked muddy ...............to a 2 minutes 15 seconds with my #4 filter and that looks so amazing :) :) :) :) :) one happy guy

 

Amazing but why such a difference??? In exposure time ?

Everything else was equal. 2 mins in the devoloper 1 min in stop and 2 minutes in the fixer. Then wash

 

Any help would be much appreciated.

I can't post the picture as it's drying but I will for sure post it tomorrow :)

Neil

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My approach (there are other valid approaches, maybe some better) would be to make a test with a 0 filter looking and assessing only at the highlights. Ignore the shadows – they will come later – and get the best time to retain some detail in your highlights. If you have two exposures that look good, lean towards the lighter one. Lets say it is 20 sec.

 

Next make a test for the contrast/shadows. Put your test paper in the easel, and expose through the 0 filter for 20 sec. Then makes exposures at various times through the 5 filter. Develop and see which time gives you best shadow detail, rich blacks and contrast. Lets say 42 sec. My experience is that the 5 filter exposure is usually much longer than the 0 filter exposure.

 

Make notes and save your tests, at least until you are satisfied. 

 

Then make a full working print with 1) 20 sec through the 0 filter and 2) 42 sec through the 5 filter.

 

If you are still not rip-your-clothes-off ecstatic, you could increase contrast by reducing the 0 filter time and increasing the 5 filter time – try 10%. Or you could change the 0 filter for a .5 or 1 or 1.5 filter (probably the same 20 sec time). Decrease contrast by increasing the 0 filter time, and reducing the 5 filter time. This is now in the realm of organized play. Make careful notes so you learn something permanent.

 

This approach builds knowledge step by step, saves time and paper, and will generate a pretty good print.

 

Apropos developing of the print – as a basic rule of thumb, note the time for the image to emerge in the developer, and keep the print in the developer for 10x that time. So if the image emerges in 15 sec, develop for 150 sec (i.e. 2.5 minutes). My experience is that the common advice of 2 minutes is not enough to produce the maximum black the paper will give (normally one of my requirements).

Edited by Michael Hiles
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Great color and nice picture Adam . The color is a bit different of Ektar IMO.

Henry

 

Thanks, Henry.  I agree - this photo seems to me to have a classic Portra 160 look with its pastels

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Guys

I've just made my first 8x10 contact print. I had some challenges along the way and wondered if anyone here can help me understand what happened.

 

The finished contact print looks amazing but to get it amazing I went from a 20 second with #3 filter plus 15 seconds with #5 filter. That print looked muddy ...............to a 2 minutes 15 seconds with my #4 filter and that looks so amazing :) :) :) :) :) one happy guy

 

Amazing but why such a difference??? In exposure time ?

Everything else was equal. 2 mins in the devoloper 1 min in stop and 2 minutes in the fixer. Then wash

 

Any help would be much appreciated.

I can't post the picture as it's drying but I will for sure post it tomorrow :)

Neil

Neil,

If you want to get into split grade printing (and after all, why wouldn't you?) this is the link you need to read before starting. There's one other thing you need to know, and that is that the darkroom gods don't smile on people who still use digital cameras...... ;)

 

Chris

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...There's one other thing you need to know, and that is that the darkroom gods don't smile on people who still use digital cameras...... ;)

 

Chris

Chris, you might want to add that it helps to sacrifice copious amounts of baryt paper and time to please those darkroom gods ... :) Edited by christoph_d
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Chris, you might want to add that it helps to sacrifice copious amounts of baryt paper and time to please those darkroom gods ... :)

...and that in order to make the sacrifices frequent, but small, use strips of paper to do the tests, not full sheets. Find an area of the image that provides the full range of shadows, highlights, and detail, and make all of your tests in that area.

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...and that in order to make the sacrifices frequent, but small, use strips of paper to do the tests, not full sheets. Find an area of the image that provides the full range of shadows, highlights, and detail, and make all of your tests in that area.

 

and make sure not to crop out the vase next time...

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Neil , in addition to what Chris said , why not use multigrade paper.

Before I used 3 grades hard,medium ,soft
I have a meter that allows me to select the grade according to the negative

contrast or not , under exposed or superexposed etc ...

In example for superexposed (or toomuch contrast) negative I use soft grade,

Now I use multigrade paper , it's more simple . I use mainly Ilford photographic

paper Multigrade IV RC DE LUXE Bright

 

For Chris's comment , look at this post I wrote to Neil :

https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/273080-big-day-today-in-getting-my-darkroom-finished/?p=3288502

What a pleasure to print his own photos, instead of spending time in front of a computer, with its photo software

Best

Henry

 

I think you know these links but I post for memory and for those interested

https://www.ilfordphoto.com/exposure-testing/

https://www.ilfordphoto.com/beginners-guide-darkrooms/

 

http://www.darkroomdave.com/tutorial/making-your-first-black-and-white-print/

http://www.davebutcher.co.uk/equipment/darkroom

https://www.lomography.com/magazine/65644-b-and-w-darkroom-paper-bible

Edited by Doc Henry
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Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS

Neil , in addition to what Chris said , why not use multigrade paper.

Before I used 3 grades hard,medium ,soft

I have a meter that allows me to select the grade according to the negative

contrast or not , under exposed or superexposed etc ...

Now I use multigrade paper it's more simple

 

For Chris's comment , look at this post I wrote to Neil :

https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/273080-big-day-today-in-getting-my-darkroom-finished/?p=3288502

What a pleasure to print his own photos, instead of spending time in front of a computer, with its photo software

Best

Henry

 

I think you know these links but I post for memory and for those interested

https://www.ilfordphoto.com/exposure-testing/

https://www.ilfordphoto.com/beginners-guide-darkrooms/

 

http://www.darkroomdave.com/tutorial/making-your-first-black-and-white-print/

http://www.davebutcher.co.uk/equipment/darkroom

https://www.lomography.com/magazine/65644-b-and-w-darkroom-paper-bible

I use mainly Ilford photographic paper Multigrade IV RC DE LUXE Bright

 

Morning Henry

That is what I bought. I got one box of Ilford RC mulitygrad pearl paper (100 sheets I think). My plan is to stick to that until I am more competent in the darkroom (Friday :) :) :) ) And then only try new stuff.

Surprisingly enough my Chamois and one lens is lighter that the Leica S plus 3 lenses.....and a hell of a lot more fun. My go to camera now is the 8x10 all that digital stuff can stay at home :)

Neil

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@ Henry: Love Your boats aswell :-) And @ all of You: it is such a pleasure to be with You in this film lovers thread !!!

I spent today in the darkroom, and for one time I post digital pics just because it is easier to show the tools we are all working with in some way.

I hope this is of a little interest... as it is Sunday, so forgive me to be a little bit lazy.

Leica IIIf from 1956, with Elmar from 1936) , Rolleiflex D / Planar 3:5 from around 1957, Voigtländer Bessa from 1948 or 1949, my father's camera.

My wife has a M4 from 1969 with Elmar from 1954 and often uses the Rolleiflex, too.

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Edited by blackandwhite
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And this is a view of the darkroom. Leitz Focomat and Meopta Magnifax 2. Nothing very sophisticated.

Jean-Marie

 

 

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And a real photo to make me forgive this sinful sidestep. Rolleiflex, Kodak TriX 400.

 

 

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@ Henry: Love Your boats aswell :-) And @ all of You: it is such a pleasure to be with You in this film lovers thread !!!

I spent today in the darkroom, and for one time I post digital pics just because it is easier to show the tools we are all working with in some way.

I hope this is of a little interest... as it is Sunday, so forgive me to be a little bit lazy.

Leica IIIf from 1956, with Elmar from 1936) , Rolleiflex D / Planar 3:5 from around 1957, Voigtländer Bessa from 1948 or 1949, my father's camera.

My wife has a M4 from 1969 with Elmar from 1954 and often uses the Rolleiflex, too.

 

And this is a view of the darkroom. Leitz Focomat and Meopta Magnifax 2. Nothing very sophisticated.

Jean-Marie

 

JM you are welcome and thanks for your nice comment.

 

What beautiful IIIf you have :)  new like in the first day  and also great camera belonging to your father

Keep them and don't sell !

Nice lab with a Focomat and Meopta .

Thanks for posting

Best

Henry

Edited by Doc Henry
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The last view ...

 

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Hasselblad 500 cm, Ektar, Epson V700 (with ANR glass)

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Very busy period and not shooting too much film. Today I developed some rolls of Fomapan100, nice film happy with the results.

These shots on my Konica Hexar AF

 

Hexar_Foma100_6.jpg

 

 

 

Hexar_Foma100_4.jpg

 

 

Hexar_Foma100.jpg

 

 

 

 

Jonny nice series specially picture 1,3 and 5

Superb b&w tonality

Thanks

Henry

Edited by Doc Henry
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For the month of May, a giant chrome blow up ballerina was placed in Rockefeller Center in NYC.  She towered over us with her grace.

 

Her last day was last Friday and so I went in the morning with my Linhof Technika Press 6x9 (which, like Jean-Marc, I also rec'd from my late Father) and some Velvia 50 and Ektar and shot her for the memories (and for a nice print opportunity :)  )

 

I'd love any feedback on these, which POVs are cool etc.

 

The first two were with the Zeiss 53mm Biogon (big brother to the SWC lens, only much older).

First is the Velvia 50

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second is with Ektar - interesting similarities to the Velvia 50, though still different 

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