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I can also confirm your experience. Enclosed the formula and the kit

Thanks allot. That's funny. I also made an attempt to create a Diafine substitute and took exactly the same values for the chemicals by guessing. Only for part B, since I didn't have Kodalk, I used Borax instead. But then the pH-value becomes to low, so I played around with same sodium carbonate instead.

Is it known if it's the official formula or if it's also made by guessing?

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More grist to the mill (or, if you like, pictures from the archives). This one will hopefully lure Henry back from wherever he is, as I'm pretty sure he loves this place:

 

p2512284719-5.jpg

 

le Mont Saint-Michel, 1988

Canon F1, FD 24mm f2.8 SSC, Ilford FP4

 

Lets hope it does, prompt Doc Henry that is, for it is a fine photograph and worthy of attention!

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Is it known if it's the official formula or if it's also made by guessing?

As far as I know it's the official formula. As stated before I've used the substitute intensively and couldn't see any differences to the original one Edited by Tmx
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More grist to the mill (or, if you like, pictures from the archives). This one will hopefully lure Henry back from wherever he is, as I'm pretty sure he loves this place:

 

p2512284719-5.jpg

 

le Mont Saint-Michel, 1988

Canon F1, FD 24mm f2.8 SSC, Ilford FP4

 

Lovely photo, beautiful greys.

 

I'll join forces with you to try and make Henry emerge... I'll try some fog.

 

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Taninges, Haute-Savoie

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Walking the dog. M6, Elmar-M 50, HP5+

 

 

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I tried the ADOX Color Implosion / M7 Summicron 50

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Fortification.

 

M6, Elmar-M 50, XP2super

 

 

 

  

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Just the commercial scan that came with the developing. However, I think the sharpening technique has to do with it.

For film I will use high-pass sharpening on a copy layer, radius between 0.5 and 1.5 depending on subject and grain, and normally set the blending to soft light. I can reduce the sharpening with the opacity of the layer.

Confession: I blurred out some grain aliasing in the sky before sharpening ;)

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Just the commercial scan that came with the developing. However, I think the sharpening technique has to do with it.

For film I will use high-pass sharpening on a copy layer, radius between 0.5 and 1.5 depending on subject and grain, and normally set the blending to soft light. I can reduce the sharpening with the opacity of the layer.

Confession: I blurred out some grain aliasing in the sky before sharpening ;)

 

 

 

Thanks, Jaap. Good info. You referred me to a book on sharpening and NR (incl in film scans) once that i bought and and read and got a lot out of.

 

 

 

 

My wife in the jungle :)

 

37047526021_1bb691d789_o.jpgM7-35 Distagon-Ektar 100 by edward karaa, on Flickr

Very nice, Edward.

 

 

 

 

The Ektar suits your wife's skin tones very well. Really nice.

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M6, ADOX CHS50, 28 ElmaritASPH1

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M6, ADOX CHS50, 28 ElmaritASPH1

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Now that this thread reached 2000 pages I am a bit worried about the absence of Henry :o

 

In the next days I will scan the rolls I had with me on the road trip last month. I think I will share some of the results here soon. Here something different from a stroll through a nearby zoo:

 

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Mamiya 645 1000S - Sekor-C 80 - Cinestill 800T

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