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MP

SA21/4

Fomapan 200

R09

Epson 4870

Gary

 

Gary MP seems work and this picture is a proof : definition, contrast and exposure are superb.

It's your favorite camera now I think

 

M6

Canon 50/1.4 LTM

Fomapan 100

R09

Epson 4870

Gary

 

It's nice too Gary. You are in difficult contre-jour in this picture.

So not easy to shoot :)

 

I'm not religious but I do like photographing churches

 

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Thank you Gary ... me too :D  but I ask myself how the cathedral is built in

the time we have no crane

 

Best

Henry

Edited by Doc Henry
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One to make Eoin a tad homesick, I hope.

Gary

 

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Gary MP seems work and this picture is a proof : definition, contrast and exposure are superb.

It's your favorite camera now I think

 

 

It's nice too Gary. You are in difficult contre-jour in this picture.

So not easy to shoot :)

 

 

Thank you Gary ... me too :D but I ask myself how the cathedral is built in

the time we have no crane

 

Best

Henry

Lots of manpower, I'm erecting a big attic roof today with a crane

 

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Thank you both. The thread moves so fast, 2 days and many great shots in between (most of all those fantastic 80s London shots, to think that our city/people shots we take now will give us these feelings in 30+ years is always strange.) 

 

Another from the same roll of Portra 160, R6, 90 Summicron-R - Cape Banks, complete with an adventurous cyclist for Henry.

33924637835_98b6605cc4_c.jpg

 

And another long exposure on beautiful Pacific sandstone shores of NSW, 28 Elmarit-R II

33081031024_8922b13c2f_c.jpg

 

 

With your negative problems jonnyboy - maybe try to simplify what is happening before you lose more shots, to clarify if it is camera and/or development? Those negs look pretty horrific!

Swish swish, pat, pat x 4 a minute. There doesn't seem so much scope for agitation to go so wrong? Ilfosol 3 has always given me superb results.

Could you expose a roll with the lens cap on the camera? It might help confirm where the problem lies. Good luck, I'd hate for you to have more great shots lost to the fickle gods of chemistry.

 

Firstly, lovely pictures Coogee - that NSW landscape and colours are really spectacular. Also, love that 90 Summicron-R - I had one too with my R system. Actually all the R-series lenses are good.

 

Secondly, thank you for your kind comment about the 80s pictures from London. I was absolutely rapt to see Hardster's as it took me back in a way to those days. Great stuff and, as you say, today's pictures are the stuff of fascination and good vibes in another XX years.

 

Which brings me to the other important point you raise - jonnyboy's negatives. There is nothing here that can't be fixed but I think there are a number of issues, starting with light leaks. I'm going to speculate that this is happening as you load the negatives from the cassette into your tank, jonnyboy. Please ensure you are doing this in a completely dark environment. I don't do it in a dark room, I use a light-tight "darkroom tent" that I bought from B&H (https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/41880-REG/Photoflex_AC_CROO1_Film_Changing_Room_25.html) and which will last you years.

 

Once you've gotten to the wet stage, ensure your chemicals are mixed to the correct proportions and are the correct temperature - 20 degrees celsius/68 fahrenheit works for most things, and the massive developer chart app gives you a great tool which will help you adjust the development time if you are at a higher temperature for whatever reason. I don't recommend developing at UNDER 20/68.

 

Next, follow this technique by Chris Crawford who really knows his stuff:

 

I am a lot gentler on my negatives than he is, just giving my tank a sharp tap on the bench when I've finished inverting the tank. Also, I do the inversions a bit less enthusiastically than Chris, too, more like a mild-mannered cocktail shaker.

 

And Coogee gives a great suggestion - just develop a roll. Rattle off the first half of the roll at a white wall or something giving a range of exposures, from -5 stops to +5 stops from correct exposure (if using a white wall, correct exposure will be what your meter reads PLUS two stops eg if it reads 1/125 at f8, give and exposure of 1/30 f8 for correct exposure, then for -5, give 1/1000 f8, then 1/500 etc through to 1 sec f8 for plus 5 stops. This will be an invaluable resource for, not only your developing technique, but also your meter/shutter etc. Take notes of each frame you shoot, and exactly the proportions of chemicals you mix, agitation scheme, temperatures etc. It seems a lot of work, but I can pretty much guarantee it will provide enough data for the good minds on this thread to point you in the right direction. And good luck!

Edited by stray cat
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And now a question to you all from me. I have found amongst a bunch of old camera stuff two exposed, undeveloped rolls - one 620 roll of Kodak Verichrome Pan and one roll of Ilford FP4. I'm not sure of the ages, but let's say probably from the 50s or 60s.

 

Would anyone have any suggestions of development times for them. I use XTOL 1:1 usually, or I have some Rodinal or could mix up some Caffenol. Has anyone tried anything like this?

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The stripes (white on the negative and therefore dark on the print) do line up with the sprocket holes. Definitely an agitation problem.

 

Yes I agree with Chris , Jonny your developer doesn't move enough inside the bath

Look at the edge of the negative , it's unhomogeneous

Best

Henry

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Yep, got a bucket full of Ektar 100, and on the Doc's orders will get some Portra too.

Not sure if my anti-social nature will handle the masses though, lots of people, lots.

Gary

You're right Portra 160 has also a very nice color

Last time when I was in mission in Asia , I had 30 rolls of Kodak Portra 160 and 400

in my Domke anti-X ray bag without the box with only the cartridge 

Best

Henry

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You're right Portra 160 has also a very nice color

Last time when I was in mission in Asia , I had 30 rolls of Kodak Portra 160 and 400

in my Domke anti-X ray bag without the box with only the cartridge 

Best

Henry

 

....  Gary  specially the yellow color

 

Leica M7-90 Macro Elmar+MA-Tripod-Kodak Portra 160

 

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Uncropped

 

Best

Henry

Edited by Doc Henry
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Thank you both. The thread moves so fast, 2 days and many great shots in between (most of all those fantastic 80s London shots, to think that our city/people shots we take now will give us these feelings in 30+ years is always strange.) 

 

Another from the same roll of Portra 160, R6, 90 Summicron-R - Cape Banks, complete with an adventurous cyclist for Henry.

33924637835_98b6605cc4_c.jpg

 

And another long exposure on beautiful Pacific sandstone shores of NSW, 28 Elmarit-R II

33081031024_8922b13c2f_c.jpg

 

 

With your negative problems jonnyboy - maybe try to simplify what is happening before you lose more shots, to clarify if it is camera and/or development? Those negs look pretty horrific!

Swish swish, pat, pat x 4 a minute. There doesn't seem so much scope for agitation to go so wrong? Ilfosol 3 has always given me superb results.

Could you expose a roll with the lens cap on the camera? It might help confirm where the problem lies. Good luck, I'd hate for you to have more great shots lost to the fickle gods of chemistry.

 

Coogee wonderful color and nice framing

Effet 3D in the second picture on my Eizo screen

Thanks for posting

Henry

Edited by Doc Henry
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33988757615_5e852b6d3f_b.jpg

 

When do we see modern windows as aesthetically pleasing to the eye?

 

Kentmere 400 HC110 1:50 12mins V850

 

Magnifique Chris :)

Grain is superb and natural grain not coming from a software

Thanks for posting

If you have more like this ... :)

Best

Henry

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I had with me at Amiens my MP with TMAX , but also my M7 with Portra

I don't like to convert color in b&w for the quality and pureness of the image :)

 

 

Here a picture inside the cathedral just at the moment of a ray of sun :)

 

Kodak Portra 160-Leica M7-35 Summilux Asph

Portra dev myself in Tetenal 38°C

 

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and in b&w

 

Kodak TMAX 400-Leica MP-35 Summicron Asph

TMAX dev in pure Kodak Pro D76 outdate

 

 

Best

Henry

Edited by Doc Henry
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