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I updated my note, not sure if you saw it.  The water in the B&W version shows more of the ripple in the highlights (center frame) which is not present in the color version.  Not sure if this is the film or if the wind was just not there for the color version.

Weather is not enough sunny that day , a little windy and a little cold , it's spring :(

I like this place , may be I'll return this w-e.

For the picture the two pictures are taken almost at the same time

Thanks for your comment Marc

Best

Henry

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Spent a day on the road and another in the redwoods and on the coast last weekend. Living in the city I forget how much I love the forest.

 

Prairie Creek Redwoods, Northern California

HP5+ @ 800, M6 + v3 35mm Summicron

 

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Spent a day on the road and another in the redwoods and on the coast last weekend. Living in the city I forget how much I love the forest.

 

Prairie Creek Redwoods, Northern California

HP5+ @ 800, M6 + v3 35mm Summicron

 

attachicon.gifredwoods.jpg

 

 

Looks lovely...

Rather grainless for ISO 800, how did you develop the film?

 

Rgds

 

C.

Edited by christoph_d
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Neil,

 

I am not familiar with LC29. It's Ilford, so on their website you normally find excellent information wrt the use of their products. 

Personally I am almost never re-using developer. Two reasons for that:

  • Firstly, if I have fresh developer (usually, D-76 or Rodinal) every time, I know what result I get. There are already so many variables in the analogue process, that I try to minimise variables where I can. And I suppose that a slightly used developer gives different results from a fresh one, even taken refreshment solutions, or extended development times into account.
  • Secondly, I probably will forget how many films I'll have developed, how to extend the development times, etc.. I simply cannot be bothered to note down every time...

An exception would be two-step developers like Tetenal Emofin, which are designed with re-use in mind, and offer unique balancing effects. However I have not used those recently.

 

Rodinal, by the way, is quite an unusual developer. It is diluted in almost homeopathic ways (which means it lasts forever). And it changes with time into a nice dark brown colour but that does not impede it's developing function (contrary to all other developers that I know of). 

 

If you have time to read, and possibly an inquisitive and experimental mind you might consider buying some books on the matter of analogue film development; "The film developing cookbook" being one of the titles that come to mind. 

 

Regards,

 

Christoph

Rodinal is really a one shot developer, as it oxidates rather fast when mixed with water (remarked in the data sheet also). And the negatives will become grainy, when used over 20°C. Other develpers could be used at 22° or even 24° C, Rodinal could not. Execpt you want to have real grainy pictures.

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Rodinal is really a one shot developer, as it oxidates rather fast when mixed with water (remarked in the data sheet also). And the negatives will become grainy, when used over 20°C. Other develpers could be used at 22° or even 24° C, Rodinal could not. Execpt you want to have real grainy pictures.

 

I agree totally. Rodinal is simply a strange beast  :o !

 

On one hand, at low dilution , higher temperature respectively you get grain the size of cobblestones,

on the other hand, when diluted at 1:100 and used in stand development it creates very fine grain and nuanced tonality...

 

Rgds

 

C.

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It's not a strange beast, but it was invented at a time, when film speed of ISO 25 was superfast, film emulsions were put on big glass plates and not everybody had warm water coming out of the water tap ;-)

So 20°C has been quite "warm" at that time.

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Thank you for the kind comment.

 

I develop in Ilfotec HC 1+31, 9:30 @ 20C. 2 to 3 gentle inversions per minute. I've been very happy with the results even pushed another stop to 1600. 

 

 

Looks lovely...

Rather grainless for ISO 800, how did you develop the film?

 

Rgds

 

C.

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yep that sounds about right. I know from looking at my negs that my current method is fine. My initial question was because someone threw a spanner in the works. I've got 11 or 12 rolls of 120 to devolop tonight and I will mix a separate mix for each half a dozen. I will post up later the results

I'll be drinking real ale while you develop, [emoji1] have fun i won't [emoji1]

 

Sent from my SM-G903F using Tapatalk

Edited by gsgary
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Thanks for the link to the pdf. I probably should have read that before.

 

In fact they say you shouldn't use conventional b&w developers:

 

Conventional black and white developers and fixers are not recommended for use with XP2

SUPER film as inferior results are obtained. Always use C41 type chemicals.

 

Does this look inferior ? XP2 developed in Rodinal

 

Brian%20and%20Shirley-XL.jpg

 

img615-XL.jpg

 

img725-2-XL.jpg

 

img722spoon-L.jpg

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Guys got a question.

I'm going to Scotland for 2 weeks and staying with my daughter and future son in law. After that I am going to Switzerland for 11 days then back to the rig. I really want to shoot film for this trip but worry about airport security and screwing up my film. Yes I am sure I can send film online to my daughters place but what can I do after that plus I would either have to take all those exposed rolls of film to Nigeria ( not a good idea) or get my wife to hand carry it back to KL for me....... She ain't going to like that idea.

Other option is Leicac S..... But I want to shoot film :)

Neil - For what it worth, I had a bad experience at Heathrow yesterday.  They wouldn't hand check my film in the security checkpoint.  I insisted on speaking to a manager and finally got them to agree to hand check my exposed rolls.  But for unexposed rolls they would only hand check if the ISO was 3200 or over.  Funny thing was that they didn't even know what 3200 ISO meant, and thought that the label "120" on my MF roll meant it was 120 ISO.  I hassled them just enough to at least get the 6 exposed tools hand checked.  And it took a good 15 minutes away from my "lounging"   :angry:   I never had this problem at any other airport, including JFK, La Guardia in NY, Miami International and Ben Gurion in Tel Aviv.  People seem really on edge these days....

 

Adam,

 

When we last spoke you were curious about the Fomapan 100 film that I use. So here are some picture samples that show some of the characteristics of the film that I particularly appreciate:

 

The first image on page 763, May 13th in this thread shows how well the film separates the clouds from the sky, without the aid of any filter. 

 

The images below, both taken at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, show the tonality of the film, which I much appreciate; it has a nice, dark, gutsy feel and it is not easy to blow the highlights. The grain, admittedly is not the finest, and perhaps another developer but Rodinal would help with that. And while I still have not printed these pictures, I have little doubt that they will print even better than they scan. 

 

 

attachicon.gif160506_1_MP_0026-2.jpg

MP, 2/35, Fomapan100, Rodinal, svp

 

attachicon.gif160506_1b_MP_0002.jpg

MP, 2/35, Fomapan100, Rodinal, svp

 

Rgds

 

C. 

Fantastic, Christoph.  I'll have to give it a try.  Thanks for sharing.

 

 

Creeping through...

 

attachicon.gifFUJI GA645Zi-1000004.jpg

 

Fuji GA645Zi, Kodak Portra 400 (processed at home :) )

 

Great home processing, Congrats!

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Fuji Provia 100F


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Giverny Monet* pond

 

 

Kodak TX400 in D76 dil 1:1

MP-90 Apo Summicron Asph

 

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Best

Henry

* Impressionist painter

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Thanks for the link to the pdf. I probably should have read that before.

 

In fact they say you shouldn't use conventional b&w developers:

 

Conventional black and white developers and fixers are not recommended for use with XP2

SUPER film as inferior results are obtained. Always use C41 type chemicals.

 

Yes, but we know better, don't we? :o

 

Chris

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