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Architectural mishmash - the glories of downtown Swindon.  From the same roll of XP2/Rodinal as post #9327.

So the Murray John Tower hasn't been knocked down yet? Somewhere I have a photo of my father in a hard hat on the roof at the 'topping out' ceremony.

 

Chris

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Have you enjoyed my little story ?

As Gary , I have a Leicaflex which dates from 1970 and which still works but I rarely use it

now because too heavy .  It's really a very good camera...  solid as a german Panzer :D

Best

Henry

Seems the way the throwaway world is headed Henry.

I got the Leicaflex out recently, exercised it, but then went back to the M6, something I never thought I'd do, and actually hated myself for thinking like this.

I enjoy the convenience of digital, and certainly for some travel, it is my preferred choice. I like to use both alongside each other. To me each is useful.

Gary

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Hi

It is useful for me to have both too ;-) but digital often stays in my bag ^_^ 

 

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If and Super Angulon 21 / 4. I do not remember the film (I will check) but it was 400 asa (High iso is more practical without any rangefinder, because I am using zone focussing with my 21mm), developed in Berspeed

 

At "La Bambouseraie" - Anduze - Gard - France

 

 

 

 

 

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The ICE works great, don't get me wrong. I just prefer to avoid anything that affects the film if there isn't any reason to use it.

Doc, that's consumerism. Which I hate. I had a laser printer in the office. After some year it got broken. I asked the price for repairing: Euros 400,00, while a new one costed Euros 450,00.

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Hi All, what interests me is being able to compare images and see what comes closest to reality without aggressiveness,

with a soft side if possible "artistic" or a view of the nature as we see and we feel every day.
Now you are free to do what you like. :)
I also have 2 M digital but I do not use them , when I use them is only for the convenience ,
but the majority of my pictures are taken

with analog camera by thinking about what I am going to take , without trigger abuse .
Good evening to all.

Best

Henry

Edited by Doc Henry
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Terrific photo Milou.

 

Hi

It is useful for me to have both too ;-) but digital often stays in my bag ^_^

 

attachicon.gifIMG_20151107_0011-Modifier-2.jpg

If and Super Angulon 21 / 4. I do not remember the film (I will check) but it was 400 asa (High iso is more practical without any rangefinder, because I am using zone focussing with my 21mm), developed in Berspeed

 

At "La Bambouseraie" - Anduze - Gard - France

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Doc, getting close to reality is very difficult if not impossible. Too many factors to count in: film, body, lens, processing, scanner, scanning, and so on and on and on.

You should write down all the parameters you use, time to time, and once you have printed a pic you should compare it with the subject you have pictured checking the two with your eyes. And, not less important, at same hourtime and with the same weather conditions.

Too complicated? Lol

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loving this one.  co

 

And a 35mm slide, something in keeping with the Doc's posts.

 

Antartic support camp, Round Hill, near Lake Tekapo taken early 1990's

 

"Scanned" with the Leica T, and BEOON, plus 50 Summicron collapsible.

 

Fuji RD film.

 

Gary

loving this one, Gary.  The color palette, composition, overall very pleasing...

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Henry - I think the ICE feature on the vuescan software/coolscan 9000 hardware combo is pretty darn good.  I really can't say that I have every noticed a difference.  Having said this, I will always try to avoid using it on 35mm film, as I am pretty good at removing most of the dust.  But with MF, it is damn hard!  So it closing the lesser of two evils, and there is downside to having lots of dust that can't be adequately cloned out b/c of the particular tonal range that it is in.  So with MF I typically will use the ICE feature.  

Comparisons on this forum are really not scientific enough as we are looking at low res compressed files that do not display the true resolution and sharpness of the native image. 

Just my opinion!

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Doc, getting close to reality is very difficult if not impossible. Too many factors to count in: film, body, lens, processing, scanner, scanning, and so on and on and on.

You should write down all the parameters you use, time to time, and once you have printed a pic you should compare it with the subject you have pictured checking the two with your eyes. And, not less important, at same hourtime and with the same weather conditions.

Too complicated? Lol

 

 

In my humble view "reality" is a difficult concept when used in the context of photography:

Reality changes in time, a photograph is a moment in time (to be precise, a short time span)

Reality is 3D, a photograph is 2d

In reality light has luminous qualities, on a photograph it is reflected ...

etc ...

So I confine myself to create reflections of reality that represent the world as I see it ... at least the interesting bits

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A winter solstice sunrise


NYC


EKTAR


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Edited by A miller
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I started this year with only one new years resolution. I want to start developing my own Black an White film at home in 2016.

 

I order a "Starter Kit" with Rodinal and planned to shot a few cheap test films from my local drug store to start with.

Nevertheless I couldn't wait anymore and developed a Tri-X @ 1600 full of great shots. I failed. -.-

Maybe you noticed my thread in the darkroom area... 

 

Thanks to the Forum I know what I got wrong and shot a cheap drug store film to give it a second try  :lol:  :rolleyes:

I think it worked quite well. 

 

As always, M6 with 35 Summicron IV and yellow filter. Shot on APX 100. 

 

23642391063_e86e15fd04_c.jpg

 

23973605530_edb08e029a_c.jpg

 

23901370169_0115e7c256_c.jpg

 

Wish you all a happy new year, Max!

Edited by maxip
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I started this year with only one new years resolution. I want to start developing my own Black an White film at home in 2016.

 

I order a "Starter Kit" with Rodinal and planned to shot a few cheap test films from my local drug store to start with.

Nevertheless I couldn't wait anymore and developed a Tri-X @ 1600 full of great shots. I failed. -.-

Maybe you noticed my thread in the darkroom area... 

 

Thanks to the Forum I know what I got wrong and shot a cheap drug store film to give it a second try  :lol:  :rolleyes:

I think it worked quite well. 

 

As always, M6 with 35 Summicron IV and yellow filter. Shot on APX 100. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wish you all a happy new year, Max!

 

Yes...lol, I did follow your other thread with interest.

 

I guess it was the fixing right?

 

In any case...glad you got it sorted out and your shots and developing look good!

 

Welcome!

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I started this year with only one new years resolution. I want to start developing my own Black an White film at home in 2016.

 

I order a "Starter Kit" with Rodinal and planned to shot a few cheap test films from my local drug store to start with.

Nevertheless I couldn't wait anymore and developed a Tri-X @ 1600 full of great shots. I failed. -.-

Maybe you noticed my thread in the darkroom area... 

 

Thanks to the Forum I know what I got wrong and shot a cheap drug store film to give it a second try  :lol:  :rolleyes:

I think it worked quite well. 

 

As always, M6 with 35 Summicron IV and yellow filter. Shot on APX 100. 

Wish you all a happy new year, Max!

 

Very nice. Looks like you got the processing right - good scans from what looks like very good negatives. Suggestion - for a while stay with this film and processing, and learn about getting the maximum/best from the combination. 

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