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M8- No Filters for B&W?


vcs700s

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I am interested in the M8 for B&W photos.

 

I have read it does a great job with this and there is no need to use filters.

 

I am new to Leica, so this is all new and very interesting to me.

 

Also, any suggestion for a lens that won't break the bank?

 

Probably a 35mm for street photography. Maybe a 50mm. Open to suggestions.

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I am interested in the M8 for B&W photos.

 

I have read it does a great job with this and there is no need to use filters.

 

I am new to Leica, so this is all new and very interesting to me.

 

Also, any suggestion for a lens that won't break the bank?

 

Probably a 35mm for street photography. Maybe a 50mm. Open to suggestions.

 

correct, NO filters needed for B&W.

 

the best bang for the buck in any Leica lens is the 40mm Summicron C. As good as any 35mm Summicron from that era....and VERY affordable. You can also search for the 40mm Rokkor, which is the same lens made in Japan for Minolta. Expect to pay between $500-700 for a good one.

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I am interested in the M8 for B&W photos.

 

I have read it does a great job with this and there is no need to use filters.

 

I am new to Leica, so this is all new and very interesting to me.

 

Also, any suggestion for a lens that won't break the bank?

 

Probably a 35mm for street photography. Maybe a 50mm. Open to suggestions.

 

I did enjoy your Flickr gallery, especially the reflections on pages 2 and 3!

It's probably heresy to suggest this here but what about the (Cosina)Voigtlander range? I've got screw thread 21mm and 35mm which I've had for ages and which seem to work pretty well on an M8. One of my hoard is an ancient (1974 I think) 50mm Jupiter (screw thread of course). I did a whole lot of tests a few days ago and it came out pretty well, not too far behind Leica glass except wide open and fully stopped down, but Russian lenses were a bit variable in quality. I even have a 1935 Elmar 9cm which works pretty well, if not quite as sharp as modern lenses. It has been coated in modern times though it probably wouldn't have been nearly so useful in its original uncoated state.

 

As everyone says, most of the time using colour filters is a bit pointless, with one exception - exploiting the M8's infra red potential. I use a three stop red filter rather than a thorough going one for IR. It seems to work fine.

 

Here's a couple of M8 examples (sorry, they have been posted elsewhere in the forum a month or so back). The first is with my 21mm Voigtlander c/w deep red filter, the second with the 1935 9cm Leitz Elmar.

 

Henry

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You don't need filters for B/W I've tried orange and red filters however - this is work in progress - M8 works very well in IR with an IR filter & the 40mm from a Cl is a great lens and yes you can pick them up cheap or try C/V (voigtlander)

lenses.

Regards

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have used a yellow filter when I know the end result is going to be bw. If you have a lot of clouds in the bg, the filter will help define them (and keep the sky from blowing out). I don't use the UV/IR filters anymore because I'm not concerned about how people's clothes colors come out. I DID use them with my original M8, but frankly I always thought the problem was overblown. I suppose if all your output is color then you might want them.

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  • 4 weeks later...

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I use my M8 for IR now but have used it a lot for B&W photography and it is stellar. A favourite lens from back in the day was the Voigtlander 40mm f1.4 SC that has a very nice tonality for B&W, also, older L39 screw mount lenses Summiron 35mm f3.5 and/or the 50mm version too all around the £400 mark.

 

976974_150472965137174_505866507_o.jpg

 

This was with a 35mm Nokton f1.2 Voitlander

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If you don't use filters,you will have to increase the amplification in a colour channel to get the filter effect. That will lead to more noise. Better to get it right in the camera and use an optical filter.

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If you don't use filters,you will have to increase the amplification in a colour channel to get the filter effect. That will lead to more noise. Better to get it right in the camera and use an optical filter.

 

I've never used b&w filters on my M8, and most of what I do ends up as b&w. I can't say I've noticed this to be a problem in practice.

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Guest rivercityrocker

I just shot some not too long ago. I'll dig them up. The difference is actually pretty marked.

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Guest rivercityrocker

Without IR/UV filter:

 

8981632549_1575fcb74d_n.jpg

 

With IR/UV filter

 

8982824096_db70bb51f2_n.jpg

 

These aren't amazing shots or anything, but you can see that the blacks are much richer and the highlights hold more detail. These are straight out of camera JPGs screenshot from LR5. Using a 50mm Summilux.

 

I'm not saying I'm for or against it, but there's a definite difference.

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That is indeed the case with an UV/IR filter.Leaving it off will create a flatter image - marginally less sharp too.

 

I mean shooting with (for instance) an Orange filter versus simulating an Orange filter in post processing. The latter will increase noise. Not an issue if you are shooting at base ISO, but if you are shooting in an ISO range that is noisy already -not too difficult to do on the M8-, it may push an image too far.

It is very useful to do your own experimenting.

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Without IR/UV filter:

 

8981632549_1575fcb74d_n.jpg

 

With IR/UV filter

 

8982824096_db70bb51f2_n.jpg

 

These aren't amazing shots or anything, but you can see that the blacks are much richer and the highlights hold more detail. These are straight out of camera JPGs screenshot from LR5. Using a 50mm Summilux.

 

I'm not saying I'm for or against it, but there's a definite difference.

 

 

Sorry, but I thought it is just the other way round: better black and more details without uv/ir-cut-filter on M8....

 

My mistake ?

 

Thanks for answering

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  • 4 weeks later...

Is the general approach to do the conversion in camera or on computer. I already use SilverEffects for conversion for the S2. Been thinking of getting an M8 as a lightweight B&W camera.

 

Thanks.

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98% of users apply filters in postprocessing. Only a few grumpy old photographers will use an optical filter.

Out of camera JPGs are excellent for black-and-white, but using a raw workflow gives far more flexibility.

 

Leaving IR filters off results in the effect of a light green filter on foliage etc and will lighten up shadows a bit, provided IR light is present.

Rich blacks are obtained by setting an appropriate black point in postprocessing.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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