GMB Posted March 27, 2007 Share #1 Posted March 27, 2007 Advertisement (gone after registration) I read at several occasions that people blow up their M8 files to pretty large prints. My files (whether developed raw files or JEPEGs straight out of the camera) have a size of about 33x22 cm at 300 dpi. If I remember correctly, some members on this forum stated that they print 44 inches wide (some I think even said they print 60x40 inches). Unless I miss something, printing at 44 inches wide results in a resolution of about 90 dpi without resampling, and such a resolution is way too low for printing. Hence my question, how big do people print, at what dpi, and what sampling, if any, do they apply? Thanks for your answers. Georg Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted March 27, 2007 Posted March 27, 2007 Hi GMB, Take a look here How bid do you blow up your M8 files?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
AlanJW Posted March 27, 2007 Share #2 Posted March 27, 2007 I read at several occasions that people blow up their M8 files to pretty large prints. My files (whether developed raw files or JEPEGs straight out of the camera) have a size of about 33x22 cm at 300 dpi. If I remember correctly, some members on this forum stated that they print 44 inches wide (some I think even said they print 60x40 inches). Unless I miss something, printing at 44 inches wide results in a resolution of about 90 dpi without resampling, and such a resolution is way too low for printing. Hence my question, how big do people print, at what dpi, and what sampling, if any, do they apply? Thanks for your answers. Georg I just printed (or had printed more accurately) an M8 DNG file, upsized in CS2 with Genuine Fractals to 36 x 24. The scene is in my signature. It enlarged and printed beautifully, with fine detail preserved. It was printed on an Epson but I don't know which model -- I think 4800. The file was huge, but there is no problem with the right image going VERY large with the M8, Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMB Posted March 27, 2007 Author Share #3 Posted March 27, 2007 [quote name=Weinschel 36 x 24. [/quote] I assume you are talking inches and not cm. Correct? I also checked in CS2 for Genuine Fractals and could not find anything. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kdemas Posted March 27, 2007 Share #4 Posted March 27, 2007 Georg, Genuine Fractals is a 3rd party plug-in that you have to buy. Very good by the way. Kent Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanJW Posted March 27, 2007 Share #5 Posted March 27, 2007 I assume you are talking inches and not cm. Correct? I also checked in CS2 for Genuine Fractals and could not find anything. Yes, inches. Genuine Fractals is a Photoshop add-in that must be purchased separately. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted March 27, 2007 Share #6 Posted March 27, 2007 Some post-processing gurus, foremost amongst them Scott Kelby, will tell you that 300 dpi is overkill and that 150 dpi is ample for a high quality print. It is not the simple mathematical evolution it seems to be. It depends on viewing distance, printer software, printer ppi, and some more magic. As it is detrimental to upres files and have printer software downsize them again to fit the system, my experience is that the only way to get it right is trial and error. Plus, different brands of printers have different sweet spots. I seem to recall that Epson, for instance, requires 180 dpi. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ho_co Posted March 27, 2007 Share #7 Posted March 27, 2007 Advertisement (gone after registration) See also David Adamson's thread http://www.leica-camera-user.com/digital-forum/9022-30-x-40-inch-m8-prints.html. He uses Alien Skin to up-res. Long thread, but a lot of worthwhile information there. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hdrmd Posted March 27, 2007 Share #8 Posted March 27, 2007 Genuine Fractals is first rate; give it a try if you need large prints. DR Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
nscali Posted March 27, 2007 Share #9 Posted March 27, 2007 Generally what works for me is: Make sure you are using a processed .tif file (from RAW). Using a jpeg will produce shoddy results. In photoshop, go to "image", then "image size.." Change the resolution of the file in Photoshop to about 180dpi (possibly even 150). Make sure the "Resample image'" box is UNCHECKED. Once you change the resolution you will see the document size change upwards. To go further, make sure the "Resample Image" box is now CHECKED. In the top dialogue, "Pixel Dimensions", choose 'percent' as the unit and type in 110%, then click OK. Effectively you have now increased the size of the image again by another 10%. The trick is, by doing it in increments of 10%, you can repeat this step several times until you get the desired size. Obviously it depends on the final printer output but you can basically double your original file size at least without any major loss of quality. Nicky Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tashley Posted March 28, 2007 Share #10 Posted March 28, 2007 Nicky, About a hundred people have shown that progressive uprezzing is less effective than a one-off. It's my own experience that this is true. It also seem likely to be common sense. Tim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carstenw Posted March 28, 2007 Share #11 Posted March 28, 2007 Well, the 10% method used to be better, but more recent versions of Photoshop deliver better results in a one-step resize. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMB Posted March 28, 2007 Author Share #12 Posted March 28, 2007 Thanks for your responses. I had a quick look at David Adamson's thread but I need to read it tonight otherwise I won't get any work done today Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
reven Posted March 28, 2007 Share #13 Posted March 28, 2007 I tested Genuine Fractals against Blow up weeks ago. In my oppinion Blow up wins hands down. Yes also Genuine Fractals, is better than the normal ones, but blow up is better. Now a total other question, why isn't there any software or plugin using a mode like Spline64 or higher ? These really give great results. But that's another thing. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnll Posted March 28, 2007 Share #14 Posted March 28, 2007 I use a thing called S-spline Pro for upressing and it works very well ...Shortcut Software, Shortcut, S-spline, PhotoZoom, PhotoMagic, PhotoArtist, PhotoMobile Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfarkas Posted March 28, 2007 Share #15 Posted March 28, 2007 My feeling has always been "less is more." The less fiddling we do to our files, the better the end result. The other addage is "you can't make something from nothing." If the camera produces 10MP of information, we will never be able to make that into more. We can stretch the image to new pixel dimensions and do our best to fill in the gaps, but this does not create more information than the original file. For my own work I always use the original pixel dimensions for any print size, whether I am making a 4x6 or 20x30 (inches). I recommend the same workflow to all my print customers as well, both professionals and amateurs alike. The results never fail to impress and the best part is that there is no additional work involved to get great prints at any size. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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