BW-NH Posted January 20, 2013 Share #1 Â Posted January 20, 2013 Advertisement (gone after registration) Good morning- I am new to this forum- I have just purchased a used M9 to start creating digital images. Â None of my lenses have 6-bit coding on them. Does the manual coding of the lens as it is mounted onto the camera matter? Is it merely adding information to the exif data? Â I have been using an M6 for many years, and currently have 4 lenses- 28, 35, 90 and 135. My 28mm f2.8 is apparently a series II- and I am not sure what to "code" the lens as. Should I manually enter the code as a series III (1804) or as a series IV (1809)? Does it matter? Â Also- I am thinking of acquiring a 21mm f4 Voigtlander (it is affordable)- and wonder if there is consensus as to the proper code for that? (assuming that coding the body-to-lens matters.) http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-news/leica-lens-codes/ seems to state the code should be as a 21mm ASPH... but I have read other places that the 6-bit code for that lens should be "1", which seems to correspond to the 21mm non-ASPH lens. Again... does it matter? Â Sincerely, Â Bob W from New Hampshire Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted January 20, 2013 Posted January 20, 2013 Hi BW-NH, Take a look here Elmarit 28mm f2.8 II. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
dpitt Posted January 21, 2013 Share #2 Â Posted January 21, 2013 Hi, Â First of all welcome to the forum, and congratulations with the purchase of your M9. Â Â For focal lengths up to 50 mm the corrections really matter on digital M camera's. Higher than 40mm can be used without it, without too much trouble. Â Â Coding corrects CA and light fall off for all lenses. On the M8 this is the only option you have to activate it. With the M9 you can also choose the current lens in a menu to activate the same benefits. Â Â So for M9 users with one lens only it is not necessary. If you switch lenses often the hardware coding of the lens is only a conveniance. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB_tx Posted January 21, 2013 Share #3 Â Posted January 21, 2013 I use the 21 Voigtlander on my M9 coded as 21 2.8 non-asph. This works very well for my particular lens and camera, but others aren't satisfied with their results. Either they are much pickier than I am, or there is sample-to-sample variation. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BW-NH Posted January 21, 2013 Author Share #4 Â Posted January 21, 2013 Good morning- Â Dirk, thank you for the reply. I appreciate the welcome, and the knowledge. Â What "code" do you think I should use for my Elmarit 28mm f2.8 which is apparently a series II, and therefore, not listed? Should I just try all of the other possible 28mm settings and settle on the one that seems to work best? Â I do swap lenses frequently while shooting, and so do want to look into whatever I can do to code the lenses- starting with black marker. My 90 and 135 look like they are candidates for a replacement pre-grooved flange, as their flanges are held on by 6 screws. However the flanges of my 28 and 35 do not attach the same way. I may attack them with a dremel after marker-ing them. Â Tom_b, thank you for the suggestion and opinion regarding the 21mm. Â Bob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
algrove Posted January 22, 2013 Share #5  Posted January 22, 2013 Here is a photo of my 21/2.8 in which Leica installed the 6 bit code on it. Suggest you use that code.  Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/196546-elmarit-28mm-f28-ii/?do=findComment&comment=2221304'>More sharing options...
dpitt Posted January 22, 2013 Share #6 Â Posted January 22, 2013 Hi Bob, Â Where do you live? Have a look at the leica technicians sticky... All my lenses were coded by Will van Manen Coding a lens professionally will costs about 60 euro, and he will make sure the lens is coded with the correct code. Â Until now the coding was always an option on top of a CLA. Do not know if it can be done without. DIY is no option for me as I get cold sweat when a dremel comes near my beloved lenses Any small chip of metal that gets stuck in the wrong spot can do a lot of damage... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BW-NH Posted March 16, 2013 Author Share #7 Â Posted March 16, 2013 Advertisement (gone after registration) Good afternoon! Â I thought I would report back. Â Today I pulled out my paper-template, marker-ed each lens with black Sharpie, tested, masked with plastic-wrap and masking tape, and then "Dremeled" out grooves into each lens, removing only the black ink. I worked slowly and carefully, and succeeded with all 5 lenses. THe 21 f4 Voigtlander is coded as a 21mm f2.8, Â I only grooved the black spots- I couldn't think of a good reason to take out any more metal than necessary. Â The m-9 correctly detects each lens with black ink in the grooves- I will clean that out, and go get some black nail polish for the final more-permanent "blackening". Â I appreciate all of the earlier advice, suggestions and posting-of-image- it all helped! Â Sincerely, Â Bob W, New Hampshire USA Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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