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Adventures in M-Monochrom Sensor Cleaning


Guest malland

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I take none of these alcohols, even in small bottles can be taken aboard a flight, is that right?

 

—Mitch/Bangkok

Bangkok Hysteria (download link for book project)

 

 

That's my understanding as well.

I just ordered the $2.50 bottle and it gets shipped with either UPS or USPS.

 

Isn't this the tool one can see in the Leica factory video?

 

Amazon.com: Pentax 39357 Image Sensor Cleaning Kit O-ICK1 for Pentax Digital SLR Cameras: Camera & Photo

 

I also have a larger orange blob but couldn't find it online anymore.

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Guest malland

Yes, that's what I saw in the video. And the dealer counseled me against trying to use anything like this presumably in light of the following possibility, as stated in a user comment that I read on the Amazon site:

This cheap little stick removed several specs of dust from my camera, and then left two smears behind. You have to be extremely careful not to let the rubber sweep against the mirror or drag on the sensor, even very lightly.

 

—Mitch/Bangkok

Bangkok Hysteria (download link for book project)

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I take it that none of these alcohols, even in small bottles can be taken aboard a flight, is that right?

 

—Mitch/Bangkok

Bangkok Hysteria (download link for book project)

I just take them in my toiletries bag in the checked luggage. . Nobody can distinguish them by x-ray from equally flammable aftershave.

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Yes, that's what I saw in the video. And the dealer counseled me against trying to use anything like this presumably in light of the following possibility, as stated in a user comment that I read on the Amazon site:

 

—Mitch/Bangkok

Bangkok Hysteria (download link for book project)

Exactly that problem cost me a sensor. (or rather my insurance)

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Jaap, trouble is that I don't check any luggage.

 

—Mitch/Bangkok

Then put it in an old, cleaned nosedrops bottle with other medicines or toiletries and simply present it in the plastic fluids bag. I doubt that you can blow up an aircraft with a few cc of sensor cleaning fluid, especially as for instance the Dust-Aid stuff is non-flammable.

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I've given up using both Eclipse fluid - because of the streaks it too easily leaves behind - and Pec-Pads which are not absorbent enough. Instead, I use a micro-fibre cloth from a Zeiss lens cleaning kit wrapped around a sensor-swab former and iso-propyl alcohol (iso-propanol).

 

Can't see the issue with taking small bottles (< 100 ml) on board in carry-ons. You can buy a litre of gin in the Duty Free and take that on board...

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Guest malland

Mark, gotta make sure than I don't make the mistake of drinking the iso-propyl alcohol and cleaning the sensor with the gin.

 

—Mitch

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Guest malland

When I was 18 I was walking on lower Third Avenue (famous at the time for its numerous bars) looking for an address and, at 9AM stopped into a bar to ask for directions. The guy next to me ordered a "rye and a beer chaser". At that age it blew my mind that someone should be drinking that early in the morning.

 

—Mitch/Bangkok

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Everyone, please stop making this so difficult.

 

Get some sensor swabs.

Get some Isopropyl Alcohol 70%. (Leica uses this)

Stop using Eclipse, Visible Dust products, and everything else! This stuff is snake oil.

Don't be afraid to swab the sensor.

Stop paying people to clean your sensor.

It is just glass.

 

:)

 

And stop making it sound so easy when, sometimes it really isn't!

 

I'm not making it difficult for fun you know.

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Which I can confirm - I got the sensors of my M9 and MM covered in sticky dust by changing lenses inside the SS Great Britain ( a museum ship that is being conserved by circulating conditioned air through it, so it must be filled with dust, oil and rust.)

Anyway, I had only a rocketblower, a few swabs and a small amount of cleaning fluid. It took me more than half an hour to get the sensors acceptably clean again, and I need to have another go when I have replenished my stock.

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Which I can confirm - I got the sensors of my M9 and MM covered in sticky dust by changing lenses inside the SS Great Britain ( a museum ship that is being conserved by circulating conditioned air through it, so it must be filled with dust, oil and rust.)

Anyway, I had only a rocketblower, a few swabs and a small amount of cleaning fluid. It took me more than half an hour to get the sensors acceptably clean again, and I need to have another go when I have replenished my stock.

 

Everyone, please stop making this so difficult.

 

Get some sensor swabs.

Get some Isopropyl Alcohol 70%. (Leica uses this)

Stop using Eclipse, Visible Dust products, and everything else! This stuff is snake oil.

Don't be afraid to swab the sensor.

Stop paying people to clean your sensor.

It is just glass.

 

:)

 

And stop making it sound so easy when, sometimes it really isn't!

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did a professional really say it took 3 hours to clean? That is such a long time to spend cleaning such a small thing- it seems hard to imagine it possible? 3 hours? Sounds like fine art restoration- did he remove each microblob individually, under an electron microscope- layer by stubborn layer?:rolleyes: though 65$ for 3 hours is a pretty low rate. In Australia I imagine they would want well over $200 for that amount of labour... making a pro sensor clean an expensive proposition- if 3 hours are really required... :eek:

 

Hmmmmm.... Could it be that the technician told his boss that it took 3 hours. What the 3 hours consists of is: 10 minutes cleaning the sensor, 1 hours nap, 1 hr talking to girlfriend on phone, 50 minutes surfing on Facebook and Twitter!

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Guest malland

I doubt it: this is a serious and good Leica dealer but the shop is small. From my previous experience, I am certain that I was not taken for a ride. They have to be very careful because they don't want to get in the situation that they scratch the sensor or otherwise damage it — think of the M9 sensor crack cases — and have to send it to Leica Service in Singapore or Solms for repair.

 

—Mitch/Bangkok

Bangkok Hysteria (download link for book project)

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Still, I fail to see how a ten minute job ( and that is what it is, with good gear) can be turned into a three-hour one. The longer you fiddle, the more the chance that you damage something.

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