X2 exposure problems

[jckte]

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Has anyone noted any issues with the metering and exposure on the X2?

 

My camera seems to overexpose images quite considerably where the lighting is mixed. I have ended up with a lot of images with blown highlights, which is really annoying as its usually discovered when I get home and review my images.

 

The problem is inconsistent and sometimes the metering is fine and at others, way off. It seems that in bright light, I have to dial down the EV between -1 to -2 for correct exposure. I am not sure if this is just my camera that does this or if it is a common problem.

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[250swb]

Without just a little bit more information, perhaps things like the aperture and ISO you are using in the over exposed shots, it is hard to say if it is a problem with the camera or technique. Maybe one of the over exposed image's along with the EXIF file would help.

 

Steve

[jckte]

Thanks Steve.

 

I've attached a couple of aperture screen captures that show what I am referring to and with the exif data.

 

If you look at the histograms, both images show a pretty good range but have a lot of white.

 

I usually use an aperture priority mode, which is what believe I would have done in both cases.

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[250swb]

I think it is pretty simple, the camera is metering from the foreground and so the background is going to be over exposed. It isn't really a problem with the camera, it will meter from the centre of the image assuming that is the area that is most important to you.

 

A number of things are possible, first try the multi point metering option, this may even out the exposure range more to your liking. If that doesn't work meter from an area that will give a good overall exposure and hold this in the memory until you have composed the shot, or overide the auto exposure and use manual exposure, or use some fill-flash, or use the + or - EV settings. But in many cases of a darker foreground and brightly lit background something has to give and be less than perfect, unless you use fill-flash, or bracket the exposures and blend them in post processing, but for that you need a tripod. And even though there are a number camera solutions difficult subjects often require some work in post processing, like some dodging and burning or adjustment of levels.

 

Steve

[ricardojh]

For me, I like the results much better when I set the EV one stop below normal.

[paulj03]

Thanks Steve.

 

I've attached a couple of aperture screen captures that show what I am referring to and with the exif data.

 

If you look at the histograms, both images show a pretty good range but have a lot of white.

 

I usually use an aperture priority mode, which is what believe I would have done in both cases.

 

Both of these images are back lit, could it be that you are pointing the camera at the subject, either the dog or the turkey, then pressing the shutter half way to lock the exposure and the focus and then recomposing. This would result in over exposure - your histograms show the overexposure - runs off the right side.

 

If you just shot (ie exposed and focussed) as it is composed, the turkey and dog would be darker and out of focus (depending on aperture, but it is close and should be softer).

 

Both shots are tough to exposure with in-camera or reflectance metering.

[JDFlood]

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I shoot all my cameras -2/3 ev. Otherwise they occasionally blow out the highlights. On a photo like the kitchen table you'll still have to tone down the highlights in post production JD

[prk60091]

I shoot all my cameras -2/3 ev. Otherwise they occasionally blow out the highlights. On a photo like the kitchen table you'll still have to tone down the highlights in post production JD

 

similarly i shoot -1/3 ev

[davidmknoble]

I know it sounds repetitive, but try metering with a grey card once or twice. I think you'll find what most do, that a typical scene is just darker than average grey, so the meter over exposes the highlights to compensate.

 

I use an incident light meter and set the X2 manually most of the time. Otherwise, I too set the meter for at least -1/3, sometimes -2/3. Similar to the monochrome, it's easier to bring the contrast back if you have detail in the highlights.

 

The other thing to do is to lock the exposure and meter on something more average, then click. I use 'green grass' all the time or the deep blue sky - both are essentially average grey.

 

Hope that helps some...

[CalArts 99]

Try using the palm of your hand as a substitute for a gray card. Zone 5 (gray card/middle gray) is pretty much based on Caucasian skin tone, so metering off the palm of your hand is similar to incident and/or gray card metering. Be certain of course, that your hand is in the same light as the subject (just as you would do with an incident meter and/or gray card.) You may not want to carry a card with you, but you'll always have a hand attached to your body.

 

As we know, digital is like using E-6 process positive film. The old adage that comes from using negative film, "expose for the shadows and let the highlights fall where they may" obviously isn't appropriate. Although unlike positive film one can recover highlights somewhat with raw file post processing. But it's still important to treat digital as though it were positive film. I personally try to stay away from bright sunny days and wait for overcast/fog. Diffuse ambient light is really wonderful stuff. And light is what it's all about.....

[CalArts 99]

Ooops. I meant to type Zone '6' and not '5.' I never did learn to type and using an older MacBook Air in the dark without the illuminated keyboard is not easy for me....