Print Longevity with Plexaglass Mount

[mitchell]

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I'm having a show in September. I hope I'll sell some prints. I have a Epson 1280, and am wondering if it's fair to sell prints from it instead of buying a pigment based printer.

 

Complicating matters, I want to have the glossy prints glued directly image side up to plexiglass, and then have a board mounted on the back side of the print. The result is a borderless, frameless image floating an inch to a half inch off the wall. The plexi seems to draw in light to the image, and there is only one reflecting surface (unlike a matted glossy under glass where both the glass and photopaper reflect.) I have a couple of large Ilfachromes (Cibachromes) done this way, and see no fading after 3 or 4 years.

 

I really like this look. Keith at Zero Station in Portland, Maine does this for me. He doesn't know about longevity, but thinks the fact the the glossy paper is sealed from air helps. He also says there are no impruities in the high quality Plexiglass.

 

Does any one have experience with this mounting method, or an idea about longevity? It seems a pigment based print would last longer.

 

I suppose I'll need to rework all my files for a pigment based printer. If so better to get it sooner than later.

 

Sorry this is so long.

 

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

 

Mitchell

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[joern]

All i heard is that some sorts of plexi are absorbing UV rays up to 90 %.

 

Since 5 years I have a print done with my old Epson 9000 hanging in our kitchen. It is mounted in a standard wood frame 70 x 100 cm with plexi glass. 1-2 hours a day we have direct sunlight on the print. The print looks nearly the same like a copy i have printed 1/2 year ago.

 

I would be more scared of the glue.

 

Cheers

 

jørn

[wparsonsgisnet]

Mitchell,

 

1. The longevity of the 1280 inks should be adequate, at 30-50 years on matte paper, when behind glass (or plexiglass). Behind the plexiglass, you won't be able to tell that the paper was either matte or glossy.

 

2. I don't believe you should let the print touch the glass, or plexiglass. Glass is amorphous and is not good for the photo surface; plexiglass undoubtedly released gases and they would not be good for the print.

 

You can get a spacer to set the print away from the glass, but you'd have to use a frame for this purpose. In any case, the frame in concert with the plexiglass is a better isolator than no frame at the edge of the print.

 

I use a spacer from Artright, at

Framing Spacers

 

These come in 6-foot lengths and the cross section looks like an "S." I have used museum board, this spacer, and frames that come to the edges of the print. The protection in this case is very good.

 

Correct framing will both enhance the value of the print and protect it better.

 

There is surely a poster here with the definitive answer, but as a rule don't let the print touch anything.

 

Regards,

[Guest malland]

Face-mounting on acrylic (plexiglass) has a great look, like a wet print out of the lab with increased saturation. A few years ago I had a 24x36 inch (60x90cm) print that I had face-mounted on plexiglass. It looks stunning.

 

The reason that face-mounting looks so good is the brilliance and depth that a photo acquires when bonded to a 1/4 in sheet of clear plexiglass -- quite a different look from framing under glass. Photos framed under glass at certain viewing angles still show some reflection from the print itself in addition to glass reflection, while face-mounted prints are more like looking at the print directly -- actually better than looking at the print directly.

 

The print was mounted as follows:

 

1. 1/4 inch "G-rated" or "Type-G" plexiglass [Roman Hass brand plexi]. I think it's important to use clear as opposed to non-reflective plexiglass, at least to get the look that I like.

 

2. Clear adhesive: Optimount from Seal Corporation which works with Epson UC inks. This is a double-sided adhesive that comes in sheets. (Apparently Diasec does not work with inkjet prints.)

 

3. The backing is .040 gauge white masked aluminum ["sign blank" aluminum].

 

4. Adhesive for aluminum: MacTac IP5001 [iP5000 series].

 

5. Glued on to the back of the aluminum is a 2" deep wooden "box", painted black, to allow the picture to be hung looking like it's "floating" on the wall.

 

But face-mounting is expensive: I paid $300 including mounting an aluminum sheet on the back and a wooden "box" as described above.

 

I don't much about longevity, but I would imagine that it's determined by the life of the plexiglass.

 

—Mitch/Lubumbashi

http://www.flickr.com/photos/10268776@N00/

[Bill W]

Mitchell,

I have some older cibachrome prints mounted on acrylic and plexiglass that are over 12 years old in some cases. They have been in direct sun at times and I have not noticed any problems with them degrading. they are pressed directly on the glass and have a piece of foam board smaller thatn the print which allows it to float off the wall. I would assume with the Epson inks they would last as well.