50mm Noctilux F1.0

[Keith (M)]

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I also find that this lens is far better for general photography that it is given credit for.

 

A very interesting thread and wonderful images in your first post, Mark. Thanks also for your post-processing info. With regard to your quote (above), what does this lens give you at apertures smaller than f1.0 that a Summilux or Summicron perhaps cannot? I do not see myself ever buying a Noctilux but...

[peter_n]

This is an inspiring thread - so much so that I have just pressed the button on acquiring a F1.

 

Hummed and haa'ad over this v the 0.95, and the F1 won out.

Congrats Adrian, I think you'll love the lens!

[IWC Doppel]

So very true and so very hard to describe.

I think it paints rather than photographs images.

 

 

btw I like the 3rd photo best

 

I'd forgotten to respond to this thread, totally agree about colour richness and body to the colours, these were shot at F1 just mucking around before Olive's first time in the trap, I added a little vibrance and reduced saturation for the old slide film effect but I was deeply impressed by the colour depth, I'm digging it now and miss it as its at Malcolm's being coded.

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[Adrian Lord]

Those are incredible images, IWC.

 

I am beginning to think that the F1 is at it's very best in colour rather than black and white, as it is there that the sheer beauty of the colours - richness, texture and shading - add another dimension to the both the bokeh and the painterly rendering of the in-focus subject.

[IWC Doppel]

I think your right, I must get better at processing and printing colour, here's another at f1, 1/15th IS0 160 in quite low light, you'd need ISO 2,000 or more with a 'Nikon' or 'Canon' and a 'fast' f2.8 and a mirror flipping around

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[Adrian Lord]

IWC,

 

Do you (and this is also addressed to other experienced users) use it stopped down to 1.4/2/2.8 mostly, or wide open at 1?

 

In the few days I have had my example, I have noticed there is a distinct gain in sharpness and contrast in the in-focus subject when at 1.4 as opposed to wide open, yet retaining the bokeh quality.

[farnz]

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Adrian,

 

F/1.0. I have a Summilux if I only want f/1.4:) and at f/1.4 the Noctilux loses some of its signature vignetting that I like so much about its pictures. Some users report visible focus shift at f/2 and f/2.8.

 

Pete.

[Adrian Lord]

Pete,

 

I also have the lux and assumed the same as you in that I would only want to shoot wide open with the nocti.

 

On another note, I need my physics refreshing: Given that the 50 nocti objective lens diameter is larger than, say a 50 lux's objective diameter, the nocti would gather more light at 1.4 than the lux at 1.4, would it not?

[IWC Doppel]

I am lucky enough to have access to a 50 mkIV Summicron, and own an E46 late pre asph 50 Summilux and 50 F2.8 Summaron. I have to admit I use the Noctilux with wider apertures most of the time (1, 1.2, 1.4). However get it out in good light stopped down it's superb and still psints with it's obvious qualities, this one at F3.4 is very sharp indeed. I must do some tripod side by side at f4 and better gauge. Sorry a little tweaking of the colours again on this one

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[farnz]

… On another note, I need my physics refreshing: Given that the 50 nocti objective lens diameter is larger than, say a 50 lux's objective diameter, the nocti would gather more light at 1.4 than the lux at 1.4, would it not?

That would be nice but sadly not:o; f/1.4 is f/1.4 with any lens and will present the same amount of radiant energy to the film or sensor. If it was true and you took it to extreme then a 600 mm objective lens diameter would gather 10 times more light than the Noctilux but that's not the case and exposure value is a norm set by standard ASA PH2.15-1964.

 

Pete.

[saty]

Hi forum,

My first post here, with more to come.... what a great place this is !

 

Just reviving this topic... so is there any optical difference in the V3 vs V4, apart from the prices and the hoods?

 

Thanks

[Berlinman]

That would be nice but sadly not:o; f/1.4 is f/1.4 with any lens and will present the same amount of radiant energy to the film or sensor. If it was true and you took it to extreme then a 600 mm objective lens diameter would gather 10 times more light than the Noctilux but that's not the case and exposure value is a norm set by standard ASA PH2.15-1964.

 

Pete.

That is not 100% true. The f-stop is only a calculation with diameter and FL. What is the real light transmission is a question of the lens design and things like number if elements, coating, glastype ... but in the real world the difference is normally not so big with Leica glas.

[algrove]

Lovely lens, but contrary to my keep it small ethic of today so I sold it about 3 months ago. Here used on the MM1, heavily cropped.

 

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[IWC Doppel]

Hi forum,

My first post here, with more to come.... what a great place this is !

 

Just reviving this topic... so is there any optical difference in the V3 vs V4, apart from the prices and the hoods?

 

Thanks

I believe it's only the hood. By the way using the V3 at night is great as you can take the hood off !

[CheshireCat]

Some users report visible focus shift at f/2 and f/2.8.

 

All users report visible focus shift, as per the lens design.

[MarkThailand]

I was wondering what others opinion on the various Leica 50mm F1.0 Noctilux's are?

 

I read an interesting bit on the V1 (E58 Bayonet hood), V2 (E60 Bayonet hood), V3 (E60 Clip-on hood), and V4 (E60 Built-in hood).

 

http://9gazine.9days.hk/post/å%C2%BE%C2%A0å%C2%8D¡noctilux-m-50mm-f-1-32/

 

From what I can summarize and guess, the optical design and glass elements did not change from V1 to V4 apart from some differing coating treatments - but, it seems that the article from the store state there are significant differences.

 

Has anybody else seen these differences?

 

Mark

[biglou]

I had a V1 stolen then a V3 and did not notice differences.

A very fine lens.

[jrp]

That is not 100% true. The f-stop is only a calculation with diameter and FL. What is the real light transmission is a question of the lens design and things like number if elements, coating, glastype ... but in the real world the difference is normally not so big with Leica glass.

Exactly.  That's why there are also "T" stops, which take the transmission characteristics into account (mainly of interest to cinematographers).  Also, because the Noctiluxes vignette heavily, you will find that you get similar shutter speeds with them wide open as with a Summilux wide open.

[IWC Doppel]

Exactly.  That's why there are also "T" stops, which take the transmission characteristics into account (mainly of interest to cinematographers).  Also, because the Noctiluxes vignette heavily, you will find that you get similar shutter speeds with them wide open as with a Summilux wide open.

 

I have both the Summilux pre ASPH and F1 Noctilux and there is a stop difference between them in use. 

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Hallo,

Look here: Leica M

[Herr Barnack]

This is showing, why the Noctilux f1 is my absolute favorite lens:

 

portrait - young gentleman by teknopunk.com, on Flickr

 

The 50/1.4 v2 is in my opinion very different from the Noctilux.

It is very soft wide open - has a look, more a bit "mushy" for a lack of a better word, while the Noctilux f1 @ f1 and f1.4 really shows very fine detail, but under a veil of angel dust ;-)

 

The Noctilux f1 is in fact a very sharp lens already wide open @ f1.

 

The v2 Summilux sharpens up as a contrast extremely well @ f2.

When I got my v2, I was blown away by it's surprising look at f2, but I never got to like it wide open.

 

I find the Noctilux a LOT better in handling fast, than the v2 Summilux.

The bigger barrel is much, much better to focus for me, than the much thinner Summilux barrel with it's rather slippery focus ring and still relatively heavy focussing feel.

 

Most Noctilux lenses, I have played with in shops focus rather heavy/ stiff.

My sample is in regular use and seems to be more smooth/ light in focussing, but with an absolute lack of any mechanical play, rattle or uneven feel - the workmanship is perfect.

 

I am obviously biased, but it is a pity, if one has to miss out on a Noctilux f1, when preferring classic lenses. I personally don't like the latest ASPH lenses, so the noctilux is a natural fit for me.

 

I too see the latest asking prices in shock - so much so in fact, that I am contemplating, to pick up a second, heavy user sample, to store my mint v4 in a bank safe instead.

 

This is for me the look, I like best from the v2 Summilux (sufficient light, f2):

 

portrait - man in chair by teknopunk.com, on Flickr

 

I don't like the Summilux v2 not much in low light, but stopped down to f2, it is wonderful and has in fact something, I much prefer over the more characterless (a bit harsh ?) latest Summicron.

 

I am shooting almost exclusively B&W. I make my conversions each photograph individually - I can't use profiles or plugins, to get the look, I want.

Bad lenses make me doctor around for a long time and fail to get me a certain look in B&W - the Noctilux f1 curiously barely needs anything in PP - I absolutely love this lens.

 

Agreed, especially the remarks in red.  I have a copy of the last non-ASPH Novtilux (a user lens, not the one that came with the $10,000 USD box); this is a lifetime lens, one that you hang on to till you are in your deathbed, and then you photograph your last visitors with it.

 

@IWC Doppel,

The Noctilux f/1.0 is a lens that the adage "Either you get it or you don't" applies to. I suspect those who lambast the f/1.0 version don't care much for bokeh in photographs; many think of bokeh as wasted space.  They are entitled to their opinion.  Regarding sharpness of the in focus subject matter,  If a guy/gal/whoever knows how to focus a Noctilux properly and knows how to use this lens, it can produce results that are quite sharp, even wide open. 

 

Many photographers don't get the M camera thing; fewer still get the Noctilux thing.  That is what the controversy regarding the Noctilux (the f1.0 version, at least) boils down to.