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Best compact flash with M8?


roubaix

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I never shoot with a flash, until now. So, for all the experts, what is your recommendation for the best compact flash for the M8? THE key is compactness: don't have too light large rooms, no remotes, nothing fancy. Just a flash for those few instances when I've had too much coffee and f/2 won't cut it.

 

Thanks a lot!

 

Peter

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Selecting the Sunpak 1600A may require you to brace yourself for an occasional cat-call thrown in your direction (a $16 flash on a $5K camera - what?) but I have one in my kit. The small hotshoe unit is bonehead simple, has a tilting head which even allows me to rubberband any white business card to it for better reflected diffusion of light and seems to run forever on two always-available AA batteries.

 

The 1600A may no longer be in Sunpak's catalog but you get the idea. (ALWAYS separate it from your M8 with a Wein SynchSafe voltage protector. NO exceptions! Heck, the Wein unit costs twice as much as the cheapie1600A.)

 

-g

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what about the leica sf 24d? i got that one also because i wanted something compact and the metz flashes are too big for that.

 

Leica flash a good unit no doubt, but its unfortunate lack of a tilting head makes it a complete non-starter with me.

 

-g

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Leica flash a good unit no doubt, but its unfortunate lack of a tilting head makes it a complete non-starter with me.

 

-g

 

Just remember that you can use a Nikon off hotshoe cord and control height and angle to get the best from this small lightweight flash unit. The iTTL still works wonders in this mode and it is all very easy to use effectively.

 

Woody Spedden

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Since I have never used the SF24D could someone explain to me how the system works? What I understand is that there is a preflash to determine distance and aperture for the TTL system, and then a second exposure flash. Is this correct? How bright is the preflash, and how long? Is it noticeable or barely perceptable, and when does it go off, when you hit the second detent on the shutter, or only on release?

 

Also it seems strange that the SF20 does not work with the M8 in TTL mode, as it worked in TTL with the M6 ttl. I don't get what has changed.

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Since I have never used the SF24D could someone explain to me how the system works?

 

....

 

Also it seems strange that the SF20 does not work with the M8 in TTL mode, as it worked in TTL with the M6 ttl. I don't get what has changed.

 

Well, the latest issue of LFI has pages and pages and pages of coverage of this if you want the real low down on the capabilities of the 24D vs 20 etc. They'd probably get upset if I scanned it and posted it here!

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Also it seems strange that the SF20 does not work with the M8 in TTL mode, as it worked in TTL with the M6 ttl. I don't get what has changed.

The firmware in the flash and the camera aren't compatible as far as GNC is concerned. This is parallell to a Metz flash with an SCA3502 with older FW than Mod4. The SCAs can be upgraded, the SF20 can't. You'll see the SF20 not working on other cameras as well, the D2 and the CM I beleive require an SF24 to work in GNC mode.

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So can anyone explain to me the experience of using the SF24D? The idea of the preflash bothers me but if it is somehow transparent to the experience I might consider buying it.

 

In other words:

can you set any aperture on the camera and not have to repeat it on the flash setting?

how does the preflash appear, bright or faint?

when does it go off, when you lock the exposure with the shutter or when you actually take the picture?

 

Thanks for the explanations so far

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1) can you set any aperture on the camera and not have to repeat it on the flash setting?

 

2) how does the preflash appear, bright or faint?

 

3) when does it go off, when you lock the exposure with the shutter or when you actually take the picture?

 

From my experience:

 

1) yes - it's just that the shooting range displayed on the SF24D will then be incorrect - but the exposure will be fine. NOTE: you MUST have the 486 UV/IR cut filter in place for halfway accurate exposures with the SF24D in GNC mode (obviously not needed in "A" mode) otherwise the exposure will be very underexposed (if flash is the primary light source for the photo)

 

2) quite bright, and as Scott points out, quite distracting as there is a perceptible delay until the main flash exposure goes off

 

3) when you actually take the picture.

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so the preflash effectively makes the 24D a non-starter for Leica photography-no?

 

so my vote for best compact flash for M8 is the sunpack 443AF, (nikon version) it has a tilting and swiveling head, three auto apertures, calculations up to iso 1000 and a manual power setting. you can get a softdome for it, and somewhere else on this forum there is a pic of the pentax off camera cord and shoes, so that you can use an accessory finder at the same time as off camera flash. Maybe get a lanyard to hang it off your wrist too.

 

I could post a pic of the setup if anyone wants. flash is 90$ and pentax accessories about 90 as well.

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:) so the best "compact flash" for the M8 turns out to be a canon eos dslr and 580ex?? :)

 

GNC is borked imo. Although plenty of consumer cameras fire a preflash, but the point is, this 'aint no consumer camera is it?

 

At least auto works on my SF20D. I find the Leica units want to underexpose by a stop most times, which is useful as fill.

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I'm deficient, of course, in my experience because I have never actually used either the Leica 20 or 24 flash units. The latter's capability to intelligently read the light needed and supply just enough to complement the available light in the picture area would be very useful, for sure. However, the 24's need to use a pre-flash to do this, makes it completely uninteresting to me. Any pre-flash completely undercuts the genius of the Leica-M's design, in my book. And, the lack of a tilting head also is a complete show-stopper for me.

 

Also, the teenie-tiny Sunpak 1600A is 1/12th the cost of the Leica SF 24D. It can slip into a small pocket and ride peacefully throughout a day of shooting to be used only when an added puff of light is needed in any photo.

 

(I also use a Vivitar 283, Sunpak 383 & 120J portable flashed and an old Sunpak studio unit w/light box.)

 

-g

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