Monitor calibration with CV Spyder2 - Help Please

[EotyLMB]

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My system has been working fine but thought I needed to move to a hardware calibrator. The Spyder2 was easily available at local Apple store. Bought it to give it a try. I have no problem using it. However, it seems to be drastically changing my output color. Screen looks good. It is taking a photo which previously printed fine and putting a light powder blue in place of white. Sometimes makes things have a brown hue. The brown will show up on the print preview but the blue does not.

 

If I try to switch to a non Spyder calibration file, the blue stays. I am inputting raw files to capone then passing a tiff to PSCS2. Just to compare I took the same photo but in iPhoto as a jpeg. It too prints out with the blue in place of white. Otherwise there is no connection between the jpeg and the tiff except they were created on the M8. They were not even input together.

 

Colorvision tech support will only call the customer back after leaving a message. So far they have not gotten around to calling.

 

Their software must have altered some deep down file. By the way I have an M8 and a MacBook.

 

I am very frustrated. My Apple genius and Creative had no clue. If anyone can be of assistance, I will be forever grateful. I am afraid my data is being corrupted.

 

Thank you all,

Larry

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[Guest WPalank]

Larry,

Are you using an Epson Printer. If so,what profile are you using when printing. It's a bit tricky on the mac.

[wlaidlaw]

My system has been working fine but thought I needed to move to a hardware calibrator. The Spyder2 was easily available at local Apple store. Bought it to give it a try. I have no problem using it. However, it seems to be drastically changing my output color. Screen looks good. It is taking a photo which previously printed fine and putting a light powder blue in place of white. Sometimes makes things have a brown hue. The brown will show up on the print preview but the blue does not.

 

If I try to switch to a non Spyder calibration file, the blue stays. I am inputting raw files to capone then passing a tiff to PSCS2. Just to compare I took the same photo but in iPhoto as a jpeg. It too prints out with the blue in place of white. Otherwise there is no connection between the jpeg and the tiff except they were created on the M8. They were not even input together.

 

Colorvision tech support will only call the customer back after leaving a message. So far they have not gotten around to calling.

 

Their software must have altered some deep down file. By the way I have an M8 and a MacBook.

 

I am very frustrated. My Apple genius and Creative had no clue. If anyone can be of assistance, I will be forever grateful. I am afraid my data is being corrupted.

 

Thank you all,

Larry

 

Larry,

 

Go to main hard disc (not user) - library - preferences and pull the system configuration folder onto your desktop - rename it. Restart your Mac and your colour configuration should have reset itself to default. Your Mac will rebuild a new system configuration folder automatically but you may have to re-enter some parameters. if you have any problems, you can just name your renamed file back again and restore it to its original position.

 

Wilson

[jaapv]

This probably means that your printer calibration is off. You can revert and have the whole chain working satisfactory again, but if you have your files printed by a laboratory, for instance for large prints, you will run into problems there. The best thing is to calibrate the whole chain from beginning to final print.

[EotyLMB]

Thanks Guys,

 

First I am using an Epson 2200 with Epson icc profiles. I choose no color management in the print menu. It has been fine.

 

I did get rid of the software for the Spyder but I cannot delete the profiles I created.

 

The renaming of the file seems like a good start to get back to starting position.

 

Very few instructions with the Spyder. One seems critical but I cannot seem to get a handle on it. It says to delete Adobe Gamma or similar item upon startup. I can't seem to find any such file on the Mac.

 

Again, Thank you both for your ideas.

Larry

[808]

Thanks Guys,

 

First I am using an Epson 2200 with Epson icc profiles. I choose no color management in the print menu. It has been fine.

 

I did get rid of the software for the Spyder but I cannot delete the profiles I created.

 

The renaming of the file seems like a good start to get back to starting position.

 

Very few instructions with the Spyder. One seems critical but I cannot seem to get a handle on it. It says to delete Adobe Gamma or similar item upon startup. I can't seem to find any such file on the Mac.

 

Again, Thank you both for your ideas.

Larry

Adobe Gamma is Windows-only. Since you're on a Mac, don't bother. Did you change the output profiles?

[EotyLMB]

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Not output profiles changed. All I did was run the calibration software and create a new profile for my LCD.

[EotyLMB]

Wilson,

 

I follow your suggestion regarding the system configuration folder. It did not change anything on the color situation. I actually did not see an item in it I thought pertained to color. It did affect my airport setup. Did I get the wrong folder?

 

Thanks,

Larry

[eronald]

I know my posting this here won't make you happy - but generally Spyder problems can be avoided by avoiding Spyder devices.

 

As for your problems, could you bring up the Colorsync Uitility (Applicatons/Utilities) , click on the Devices Tab, and tell us which profiles are selected there for Displays and Printers ?

 

Edmund

[EotyLMB]

Edmund,

 

How right you are!

 

I clicked on displays and printers - nothing further came up. Is this a problem?

 

Another person suggested verifying and repairing the colorsync files. This seemed to take care of my major blue for white problem. I printed 2 photos that I had difficulty with. One seemed completely ok while the other still had a few problems but not nearly as bad as it was.

 

I feel better.

 

Thank you very much,

Larry

[EotyLMB]

Edmund,

 

I finally figured out how to open the displays and printers profiles in the colorsync devices area.

 

For displays it lists COLOR LCD only

 

For printers it has several profiles for my 2200, 1270, and a couple of others. It does not list the profiles I select for sheet papers. It seems to primarily be roll profiles which I do not use.

 

Does this give you a clue?

 

Thank you again,

Larry

[eronald]

Edmund,

 

How right you are!

 

I clicked on displays and printers - nothing further came up. Is this a problem?

 

I feel better.

 

Thank you very much,

Larry

 

Larry,

I'm happy you feel better.

Let's try and fix your system a bit more.

 

1. Bring up the System Preferences - Displays panel.

2. Choose the Color Tab.

3. Choose "Color LCD"

 

That should turn your Mac back into a factory uncalibrated device

 

4. Now go to the Applications/Utilites/Printer Setup Utilities.

5 Under the "Printer Setup Utilities " menu when you launch the utility is "Reset Printing System". Do this.

6. Reinstall your printer driver. I STRONGLY RECOMMEND downloading the latest driver for your printer from the manufacturer' web site.

 

Your system should now be back to its pristine state. I hope so anyway.

NEVER TOUCH THE SPYDER SOFTWARE AGAIN

Go to Integrated Color Corp. Home of ColorEyes

8 Purchase the Coloreyes Monitor Software DEMO from their webstore (it is $0)

 

9 Run it letting it guide you.

 

10. You should now have a nicely calibrated monitor.

 

 

I'm sorry, you won't get more free tech support from me today. Out of time. And by the way, I have some very nice color profiles for the M8 which you can request by email

Edmund

[finkaudio]

Hi,

 

I must say that I get very good results with the Spyder on my Apple monitor, but only after I decided to go for "Native Mode 2.2". That's the trick. Before I was trying to calibrate to 6500 Kelvin and got a strange looking screen.

 

On a TFT, the colour temperature is defined by the colour of the backlight. Changing that means to add a colour cast to the screen. The Apple monitor has a usable backlight colour, so I get good results.

 

Best regards

 

KH

[ho_co]

Larry--

Everyone's advice above is good.

 

Two points--

 

1. Because Apples come with Colorsync, Adobe doesn't supply Adobe Gamma for Mac systems. That is, for Mac users, Colorsync serves the same purpose as Adobe Gamma does for PC users.

 

2. Someone on another thread on this forum said portables can't be calibrated because their video cards aren't fancy enough to support calibration. I don't know whether that's so, just reporting it here in case it helps. And I think Karl-Heinz may have just obviated that conclusion. (Or shot it out of the water, lock, stock and barrel, if that's a misuse of the word "obviate." )

 

--HC

[wlaidlaw]

When I was at Focus on Imaging a couple of weeks ago, I looked at the various calibration tools on offer. I wanted one that could do the LCD screens on my iBook and iMac (finally working properly after three months, with a Firmware patch sent to me by Apple) and the dual CRT's on my Powermac. Every salesman 'bad-mouthed' the opposition. "Colorvision Spyder is OK on Windows but run a mile for Macs." "Pantone Huey is a silly toy and nobody ever managed to get any Gretag Macbeth calibrator to work as they say it should." "Truelight is fine for video but useless for photographs." I was so confused I did not buy any of them. The salesmen did not really know about their own product. I think I will go down to my local Apple Pro shop and buy something on the basis that if it does not work - they are getting it back. I did borrow a GM Eye One kit and it did work to some extent but it was not the easiest job. I got the CRT screens better but could not get my Epson R800 to play ball.

 

Larry,

 

If moving the System Configuration folder did not improve matters, it at least means you did not mess around with anything deep down on your system but only the front end profiles. I think Edmund has now straightened you out on these.

 

Wilson

[EotyLMB]

Edmund,

 

I did everything you suggested (except for the new monitor calibration - still have a color problem so do not want to go for calibration until I get correct color).

 

I have a picture of my dog. She is face forward beside a white baseboard. The baseboard and the white hair on her face were both coming out blue. After running verify and fix on the colorsync files, the blue on the baseboard went away and has stayed away - back to white. The blue on her face has not gone away. She is black and white.

 

I have gone back to unprocessed raw but it still comes out blue. Do you have any thoughts on this situation?

 

Thank you again very much,

Larry

[eronald]

Do the rest of the calibration - the part with Coloreyes Demo.

 

Don't you get it yet ? In digital the only thing that shows you your color is the monitor. If the monitor is off all your color judgment is junk.

 

May I be clearer ? If the monitor only shows reds, whatever the file, it will be red.

 

And, after you fix the monitor, please use my C1 profiles for your files. I think, I hope, they neutralize the colors with the latest firmware.

 

Please, I cannot continue to do free tech support. Can someone else guide this gentleman nicely through the Color 101 ?

 

 

Edmund

 

 

Edmund,

 

I did everything you suggested (except for the new monitor calibration - still have a color problem so do not want to go for calibration until I get correct color).

 

I have a picture of my dog. She is face forward beside a white baseboard. The baseboard and the white hair on her face were both coming out blue. After running verify and fix on the colorsync files, the blue on the baseboard went away and has stayed away - back to white. The blue on her face has not gone away. She is black and white.

 

I have gone back to unprocessed raw but it still comes out blue. Do you have any thoughts on this situation?

 

Thank you again very much,

Larry

[EotyLMB]

Edmund,

 

I really appreciate your effort and help. I am happy to buy some profiles.

 

The photo I am referencing (actually several similar) printed out perfectly before I entangled myself with the Spyder ( no pun). It always has and still does look good on the screen. It just does not print properly as the screen. The blues that replaced the whites did so only on the printer and never on the screen. I will follow thru on the screen calibration.

 

Please be assured that I greatly appreciate your help.

 

Larry

[eronald]

Please Larry, this bit about color management is a black art. You have to follow the incantations as they are indicated. If you deviate, things become a tangle and then one cannot help you anymore. So now the priority is to get your screen set up. The printer comes AFTER. I have indicated a way to get your screen set up for $0 additional expense. That's already a good start, no ?

 

Edmund

 

Edmund,

 

I really appreciate your effort and help. I am happy to buy some profiles.

 

The photo I am referencing (actually several similar) printed out perfectly before I entangled myself with the Spyder ( no pun). It always has and still does look good on the screen. It just does not print properly as the screen. The blues that replaced the whites did so only on the printer and never on the screen. I will follow thru on the screen calibration.

 

Please be assured that I greatly appreciate your help.

 

Larry

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[ho_co]

Larry—

As Edmund said, the monitor is the only view you have of the image before you print it. You make adjustments to the image on the monitor, and when you like what you see, you print the image. Right now you have an uncalibrated monitor, an uncalibrated printer, and a file which you have previously adjusted till you liked it on some combination of those two. You can't start by saying "How do I print this?" You need to calibrate your image chain.

 

The (oversimplified) idea of color management is that the monitor and the printer both give you the same results. You start by calibrating the monitor, then you calibrate the printer, then you check the two against one another on a particular paper at a particular enlargement and a particular dpi setting, and tweak as necessary.

 

When you switch to another paper or another dpi setting, you will likely need to re-tweak the printer to get what you see on screen.

 

Obviously, you must use only the printer manufacturer’s inks, because he has staked his reputation on their consistency.

 

I don’t know why Edmund says to ditch the Spyder software—maybe because of user interface, maybe because of inaccuracies—so I can’t comment on that. He implies that another piece of software is better with the Spyder, so go with that.

 

Edmund knows much more about the topic than I do, and you won't go wrong doing what he says. But there is another possibility you should be aware of:

 

I know several professional photographers who use no calibration hardware. If you’re doing portraiture or weddings or commercial photography, you need hardware calibration, and you need to recalibrate once a week or once a month at worst. If you are doing landscapes for your own usage, you may be able to get by with the calibration built into the Mac OS:

 

From the Finder, open Mac Help. Type into the search box “monitor calibration.” One of the topics shown is “Calibrating your display.” Select that choice, read what it says, and do it.

 

For screen temperature, various people recommend 5000 K, 5500 K or 6000 K. When asked, take your pick. Choose a gamma of 2.2.

 

Now remember, any calibration is for one setup. If you change the level of backlight on the monitor screen, the calibration will not be correct. If you calibrate ten feet from a window with sunlight coming in, the calibration will be wrong at the same location but on a cloudy day; and it will be wrong if you try to use it under tungsten lights. Some professional labs recalibrate monitors daily and use light shielding so that the operator sees only light from the monitor, without extraneous intrusion.

 

There are a number of companies which offer free calibration file downloads. The idea is to download the file and print it, then compare the printed version to the screen version. If they don’t match, the company will supply a printer calibration profile on request for ca $100. But even if you don’t take the matter that far, you can see how closely your printer and monitor agree just by downloading and printing the file. You might want to google “Profile City” in this regard. (Just one of a number; I have no preference.)

 

The reason I mention going the non-hardware route is simply that you need to understand why you are doing each step. If you are just doing things because that's the next step in the instructions, it will be much harder to recognize why and how the process works.

 

Color management is time consuming. It is only as exacting as you want to make it.

 

--HC