cornellfrancis Posted June 3, 2012 Share #1 Posted June 3, 2012 Advertisement (gone after registration) Friends, I wanted to share the results of my first real experience with processing and scanning my own film. Below are a few test shots. I have to say that processing your own film is a hugely rewarding experience. Sure, it's a bit annoying to just stand there and watch the clock, waiting in between agitation cycles, but now I see how much more control over your images this gives you. Right now I'm doing Tri-x in D76 @ 70 degrees for 9 min, inverting the tank three times at 30 second intervals; water stop bath; kodak fixer for 7 minutes; 15 min wash; 1 min photo-flo (last two images were push processed at 1600) When I went to purchase processing supplies I ended up getting some things that I did not use for example, kodak indicator stop bath and hypo clearing agent. Will these give me any better results? As usual, opinions on the web are mixed. Now scanning I can see is a bit more of a challenge. I feel that it will take me a while to learn the plustek 7600 and silverfast. Right now I'm just kind of randomly moving sliders around and the results I'm getting are not as good/consistent as when the lab was scanning my film for me. Anyhow, I just wanted to share my experience and encourage anyone else considering processing their own film to give it a try! Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/180933-first-time-processing-and-scanning-tri-x/?do=findComment&comment=2030300'>More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted June 3, 2012 Posted June 3, 2012 Hi cornellfrancis, Take a look here First time processing and scanning tri-x. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
too old to care Posted June 3, 2012 Share #2 Posted June 3, 2012 Many opinions here, but first your photos look great. I have the same scanner and it takes a bit of getting used to with Silverfast. That said, I like it and I think you are well on your way. If you use Photoshop you can also remove problems such as those lines you have and some dust that may pop up. My processing procedures are pretty much the same as yours, except I stop using stop bath. I just wash rinse my negatives two or three times before I fix. I do this because I never save my fixer (or developer), but start with a fresh batch each time. I also wash for 30 minutes, thus do not use hypo clearing agent. However, most people here will tell you that is wrong, and it probably is, but it has worked well for me for decades because I use long development times. On the scanner, when I make enlargements with files straight out of the scanner I find that the images often have too much grain. I think the scanner enlarges the grain because printed images from it and my wet printed images do not look the same. To reduce the grain a bit I use Photoshop to filter it out until it is not as pronounced. After that, the images from my printer and my wet prints look pretty much the same. Enjoy the experience. Wayne Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
c.poulton Posted June 3, 2012 Share #3 Posted June 3, 2012 Your images look fine, you are obviously doing something right ;-) You are exactly at the stage I am now at - soup your own film & scan. Due to rising costs of sending film to the lab I have decided to start souping my own films again (I haven't done this for about 30 years!) and home scan. I have all the processing kit already and just received a mail order delivery of chemicals. I just need to finish off a roll of HP5+ and I'll be processing again! I managed to get hold of an 'old' Plustek 7500i that was gathering dust in storage at work (not having been used for 3/4 years or more and not likely to be as we have moved 100% digital and our library is now fully digitised) and bought the latest version of Silverfast & Acdsee Pro to run it. So far my first scanned roll has turned out fine however I have a lot to learn as its all flying by the seat of my pants at the moment - more by feel and less by what the curves and histograms are telling me! Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! My ultimate goal is to have my own darkroom again, however that will have to wait until I can afford to either extend this property or move, which might take some time! Let's hope the availability of film remains otherwise my dream may never materialise! Christian Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! My ultimate goal is to have my own darkroom again, however that will have to wait until I can afford to either extend this property or move, which might take some time! Let's hope the availability of film remains otherwise my dream may never materialise! Christian ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/180933-first-time-processing-and-scanning-tri-x/?do=findComment&comment=2030368'>More sharing options...
chrism Posted June 3, 2012 Share #4 Posted June 3, 2012 Hypo Clear isn't a necessity, but it reduces the washing time. I use the Ilford "desert" method of washing (the tank is filled with water three times, five turns the first time, ten turns the second and twenty turns the third). If I happen to have some hypo clear around I use it first on the grounds that it can't harm, and might make my washing more effective. I admit these are things that my descendants might care about rather than myself, as it ought, if anything, to prolong the life of the negatives. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym911 Posted June 3, 2012 Share #5 Posted June 3, 2012 the images are very clean, free of noticeable grain and hold excellent tones.Nice contrast too.well done. the last 2 images are exceptional for their detail and cleanliness ...almost digital in their look. well done indeed andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff S Posted June 3, 2012 Share #6 Posted June 3, 2012 the last 2 images are exceptional for their detail and cleanliness ...almost digital in their look. Ha! We've come full circle. Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornellfrancis Posted June 3, 2012 Author Share #7 Posted June 3, 2012 Advertisement (gone after registration) Thanks all for your encouragement and sharing your experiences. I plan to give printing a try next (both digital and wet printing once I can get my hands on an enlarger...). I'm going to do some experimenting with hypo and stop bath as well. I feel like my wash cycle uses gallons of water and if hypo would help out there I'd feel a bit better. Re silverfast I too am flying by the seat of my pants at the moment but there seems to be a fair amount of functionality with the software so it's going to take some time to get to learn what all this stuff is. For the detail in the last two images I have to give credit to the 50 summilux asph. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
too old to care Posted June 3, 2012 Share #8 Posted June 3, 2012 For the detail in the last two images I have to give credit to the 50 summilux asph. Or film, I find it funny that we are now saying a film image looks as like a digital image, I guess this is good. On the wash, you do not need to flood the tank with clean water, just a trickle is enough to properly wash the negatives. Probably uses a few gallons, but using hypo clearing agent is ok too. On the enlarger, about a year ago I replaced my old Vivatar enlarger with a Bessler 23CII for a song on Ebay. The enlarger looked new and came with two El-Nikor lenses and a bunch of other stuff too (filters, paper holder, timer, etc). Total price was just over $200. My darkroom is in my basement. I do not have running water there, so I drop my finished photos in a plastic wash tub and carry them up stairs to wash in the kitchen sink. Before I got the Bessler, I used to use the kitchen as my darkroom. However, the 23CII is too heavy to carry around. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
antistatic Posted June 3, 2012 Share #9 Posted June 3, 2012 I agree that you have clearly made a good start. I also adhere to the "pull the sliders around until I'm happy" school of post production. As for washing, I fill the tank, pop the lid on and invert 5 times, tip the water out then repeat for 10 inversion then 20 inversions. I live in a place where water is precious so leaving a tap running for minutes seems wrong. I have not had problems with my negatives as a result. I presume the last two photos show just another Saturday night at your place. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornellfrancis Posted June 4, 2012 Author Share #10 Posted June 4, 2012 On the wash, you do not need to flood the tank with clean water, just a trickle is enough to properly wash the negatives. Probably uses a few gallons, but using hypo clearing agent is ok too. ah ok I see. I have been using a pretty strong flow of water because I heard that you want to ensure the positive flow of water over the film. I imagine I'm using > than a gallon a minute... I'm going to experiment with reducing the flow as well as the agitation wash method. Im going to scope out ebay for a besseler. Would you say you do more wet printing or digital printing? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornellfrancis Posted June 4, 2012 Author Share #11 Posted June 4, 2012 I presume the last two photos show just another Saturday night at your place. Yeah we just had a few friends over. For the last photo I managed to set the self timer on the M3 before doing the lift with my wife. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
too old to care Posted June 4, 2012 Share #12 Posted June 4, 2012 Do not get hung up on Bessler, there are many better enlargers out there for the same money or less. I gave you an example to show you what could be purchased for a few bucks. This is my darkroom. If you added up the cost to make this thing, about $300 total via Ebay. It is under the stairs in my basement. I have the windows blacked out, and I have to carry the still wet photos upstairs for wash. The main thing is, once you get used to the fixer smell in your basement, or where ever you use for a darkroom, you will never get over it. Wayne Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/180933-first-time-processing-and-scanning-tri-x/?do=findComment&comment=2030782'>More sharing options...
cornellfrancis Posted June 4, 2012 Author Share #13 Posted June 4, 2012 Do not get hung up on Bessler, there are many better enlargers out there for the same money or less. I gave you an example to show you what could be purchased for a few bucks. This is my darkroom. If you added up the cost to make this thing, about $300 total via Ebay. It is under the stairs in my basement. I have the windows blacked out, and I have to carry the still wet photos upstairs for wash. The main thing is, once you get used to the fixer smell in your basement, or where ever you use for a darkroom, you will never get over it. Wayne Sweet setup Wayne! Did you build that workbench yourself? It looks to be the perfect size. I want something like this in my basement. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
too old to care Posted June 4, 2012 Share #14 Posted June 4, 2012 Yes, home made work bench. Probably have about $30 in it. Also, have padded mats to stand on, saves my old feet from more damage. I spend hours of quality time down there each month, well worth the expense. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted June 4, 2012 Share #15 Posted June 4, 2012 ah ok I see. I have been using a pretty strong flow of water because I heard that you want to ensure the positive flow of water over the film. I imagine I'm using > than a gallon a minute... I'm going to experiment with reducing the flow as well as the agitation wash method. There is some good science behind using the Ilford method of washing film, although I double up the numbers antistatic gave, so 10 inversions, 20, then 40. It saves a massive amount of water to start with, but it also means that given a big enough mixing jug all your wash water can be at the same temperature as your chemicals. http://www.ilfordphoto.com/photocommunity/forums/theforum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6877 Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MPerson Posted June 4, 2012 Share #16 Posted June 4, 2012 Nice results. I have just moved to an automatic processor but when I did it by hand I just used developer, water stop and fix and then the Ilford wash method. As Wayne said plenty of enlargers out there, more important to get a decent lens for it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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