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Focus problems with CV15mm on M8


finkaudio

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Hi Ict,

 

yepp, that's how I did it with the 15mm.

 

Sorry for the bad photo, but I only have a desk lamp and a small pocket Digital for Macro :( .

 

cv15.jpg

 

It's easy to go to infinity for landscape shooting, but I really want to know why the hell the hyperfocal thing does not work here. Is it the lens or the princible :confused: ?

 

Best regards

 

 

KH

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Hi Ict,

 

yepp, that's how I did it with the 15mm.

 

Sorry for the bad photo, but I only have a desk lamp and a small pocket Digital for Macro :( .

 

cv15.jpg

 

It's easy to go to infinity for landscape shooting, but I really want to know why the hell the hyperfocal thing does not work here. Is it the lens or the princible :confused: ?

 

Best regards

 

 

KH

 

Karl:

 

I would shoot it just before the infinity mark. Ignore the DOF scale. Even on film, if you put the lens closer than 2m, the pictures were soft, unless the main subject was closer than 2m.

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Hi Steve,

 

I think the lens design is OK, maybe just my copy is bad.

 

Theo, did you have the problem also on the 15mm??

 

BTW, I only use original Leica adapter. I bought a few of the old ones early enough :D

 

Best regards

 

Karl-Heinz

 

 

Hello Karl-Heinz,

 

Yes I had also problems with my Voightlander 15 mm, your first photo was the same problem, unsharp. After 1 day I brought it back and change it in te Summicron 35 mm1:2

the picture look 100% sharper.

The sales person try to tell me I have to sharpen my picture in Photoshop, now I am from the old school (film) and have learn when a negative is unsharp you can not make it sharper in the darkroom. I still believe that that rule still is in place with the DNG and JPEG files.

If I am wrong, then please tell me something different.

 

Theo

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2 pictures from this Afternoon, at Grouse mountain restaurant in Vancouver. Color and B&W with summicron 35 mm 1:2, I shot it with F2.8shutterspeed 1/30, handheld. NO Flash.

 

I am very impress with this results and all the details.

 

but I like to have some constructive comments regarding this pictures not about the subject, but sharpness,color and the B&W

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Theo

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Hi

 

 

I was searching the net yesterday night to find some more informations about the DOF and hyperfocal story.

 

It looks like the problems I'm having are not really related to the lens, but to the theory of the hyperfocal settings. Those rules might not longer be valid with modern equipment.

 

Some information

 

From what I was reading, I would say that Roberts advice is more or less spot on and so it's a question of experience to set the right distance on a non coupled lens.

 

So, at the end I learned something :)

 

 

Best regards and thanks for help and advice

 

Karl-Heinz

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As promised, here are my tests with the 15mm. My conclusion was at any aperture, if you want perfect infinity focus, set the lens at the infinity stop. The best compromise for near objects and infinite objects was with the lens at f6.3 and the centre of the infinity mark aligned with the first vertical bar on the DOF scale. this is the mark between the f4.5 mark and the center mark.

 

These were also shot with a 39mm 486 filter fitted. I used Lightroom to convert and load the file in photoshop as a PSD and then used the PanoTools radial luminance to correct the cyan corners. I then saved the PSD and did the crops via Lightroom, using the PSD as the source, rather than the original DNG.

 

 

First, here is the whole image. This is the one with the infinity focus alighned at the first vertical bar.

 

L1001962-Edit-4.jpg

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Here are the details from the top of the image. The first is with the lens focused to the infinity stop, the second with the infinty set to the first vertical mark on the DOF scale.

 

L1001961-Edit-2.jpg

 

L1001962-Edit-2.jpg

 

In the same order, infinity focused first, from the bottom right corner.

 

L1001961-Edit-3.jpg

 

L1001962-Edit-3.jpg

 

With the lens focused just before infinity, the DOF works better with the closer details, while still getting decent infinity focus.

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Hi Robert,

 

thanks for the testing. Now I think I know what to do and I can also start to play with the 21mm to find the best compromise as well.

 

However, to be on the safe side for snapshots, I better set it to infinity and make sure I have no tiny little objects in front :D.

 

BTW, Robert, I'm sitting here in cold Germany and it is raining cats and dogs. It's really painful to see the blue sky and the pool :( I must do something wrong :eek:

 

Best regards

 

Karl-Heinz

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I also have problems in focusing the 15. Ok, I do "people close-up" and not landscapes but that is what I bought it for. Maybe my mistake, but I regret the money spent for the lens + adpater + UV/IR. I think that the theory "you get what you paid for" applies also in this case.

 

Giulio

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I also have problems in focusing the 15. Ok, I do "people close-up" and not landscapes but that is what I bought it for. Maybe my mistake, but I regret the money spent for the lens + adpater + UV/IR. I think that the theory "you get what you paid for" applies also in this case.

 

Giulio

 

 

Hi Giulio,

 

give it another try. It's just understanding the rules and using them.

 

Otherwise, maybe I should buy your lens :-)

 

Best regards

 

Karl-Heinz Fink

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Ive been using my 15 for a while now. 1st with my M7 and MP and now with my M8. Hyperfocal works for me everytime. This is not a people lens though, as you can not focus that close with it. If you try, the subject will be out of focus/blurred. I have found the closest I can get is about my arms length for people, and it makes a very cool self portrait lens on a film camera. A bit harder on the M8 due to the 1.33 sensor.

 

BUT I have not had one OOF shot with my 15, EVER. They have always been sharp and contrasty. Maybe your lens or adaptor is bad?

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Actually, here is one I took a few nights ago. I believe it was at 4.5 using hyperfocal..

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