Rick Posted December 17, 2011 Share #41 Posted December 17, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) All shot with the beautiful 28 mm Summicron and the M8 (just use right arrow key to page through): Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/168250-venice-with-m9-which-lens/?do=findComment&comment=1873208'>More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted December 17, 2011 Posted December 17, 2011 Hi Rick, Take a look here Venice with M9 which lens. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
k_g_wolf ✝ Posted December 17, 2011 Share #42 Posted December 17, 2011 Excellent photographs, Rick, thx for sharing. best GEORG Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lars_bergquist Posted December 17, 2011 Share #43 Posted December 17, 2011 Algrove, you are already suspecting the true cause of your problem – 'jerking the trigger'. Whenever you are trying to really hit something with a firearm, you must mind your trigger. This is what you do with a pistol: You take up the slack (if it is a two-stage trigger), lock your wrist, increase pressure smoothly, apply counter-pressure by the thumb, until the mechanism releases and the bang comes a surprise – all in a small fraction of a second. And still you maintain the rigid wrist, the smooth first finger and thumb pressure. And it is just the same with a camera. A skeet or trap shooter's tale would be slightly different, but its essence would be the same: Breathing and muscular control, and learning to restrain that internal cry of 'now!' that invariably leads to jerking. The shutter release of the M9, unfortunately, is not on the level of a free pistol or even a well set-up revolver. It has one pressure point too many unless you set 'soft release' (I do) and the action's resistance disappears suddenly in the moment of release, which is analoguous to a badly adjusted trigger's 'falling hrough', and that makes precision work very difficult. I have said this before: Leica Camera should consult one or two of the old experienced master gunsmiths that still live in parts of Germany not far from the Solms-Wetzlar area, to find out what a high class shutter release should be. Meanwhile, with a digital camera, you can train live what a shooter mostly has to train 'dry': Stance, breathing, muscular control, hand and finger action. Do it. The old man from the Age of the Colt Trooper Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkP Posted December 17, 2011 Share #44 Posted December 17, 2011 All shot with the beautiful 28 mm Summicron and the M8 (just use right arrow key to page through): San Giorgio Maggiore | Flickr - Photo Sharing! Lovely photos Rick. M8 + 28 = 35, the standard travel single lens kit as much of this thread has suggested. Having said that I love the 28 Summicron on the M9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Geschlecht Posted December 17, 2011 Share #45 Posted December 17, 2011 Hello Lars, Exactly correct. Altho you might wonder why they would have to since they already designed & built the shutter release for the M3. Another thought: It is often helpful to place the center of the ball of the first digit of the finger used, usually the first finger, @ the point of contact. The center of the ball is where most of the nerve endings are concentrated. A person is most sensitive to & exercises most control over their movement that way. Then remember to pull or push in a straight line. Not in an arc-ing movement. Best Regards, Michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert blu Posted December 17, 2011 Share #46 Posted December 17, 2011 Hi Lars, even if I have not (yet?) an m9 I find very interesting to read in this forum your suggestions and comments, where I find so many small things which once learned can have a great importance in the final photo. Thanks for this, robert Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
algrove Posted December 17, 2011 Share #47 Posted December 17, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) How very true. Do you still own a Colt? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
OwinThomas Posted December 17, 2011 Share #48 Posted December 17, 2011 Excellent photographs, Rick, thx for sharing. Have to agree, instant favourites on some of the Venice ones. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lars_bergquist Posted December 18, 2011 Share #49 Posted December 18, 2011 How very true. Do you still own a Colt? For reasons of security I don't answer such questions. Sorry about that. The old man with tinnitus Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lars_bergquist Posted December 18, 2011 Share #50 Posted December 18, 2011 Hello Lars, Exactly correct. Altho you might wonder why they would have to since they already designed & built the shutter release for the M3. Another thought: It is often helpful to place the center of the ball of the first digit of the finger used, usually the first finger, @ the point of contact. The center of the ball is where most of the nerve endings are concentrated. A person is most sensitive to & exercises most control over their movement that way. Then remember to pull or push in a straight line. Not in an arc-ing movement. Best Regards, Michael Right, Michael. Here's something I want to draw attention to: That raised collar around the release button itself. It is there for a purpose. That is to give the soft flesh on your fingertip (a) a resting point, and ( a vertical reference point as you gradually but swiftly increase the downward pressure. This gives you that invaluable thing, control. And this is why 'soft releases' are counter-productive. They decrease control. They may have a placebo effect by falsely reassuring the user, but this is clearly less than the deterioration of control. Similarly, I found that accessory 'trigger shoes' that you attached to your gun's trigger to increase its surface and thus decrease the sense of the pressure needed, were counter-productive, as measured in quantitative scores, becase you got less control of the trigger action. The right way to go was a good trigger job by a gunsmith or by yourself (if qualified) to produce a crisp, distinct action without creep or grittiness. Again, you could not argue with the scores. And the steering of a classical sports car is what it is for a reason. (How off-topic can you get? But it is still relevant, if not to the original question.) The old man from the Age of the Un-Synched Gear Box Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 18, 2011 Share #51 Posted December 18, 2011 Excellent photographs, Rick, thx for sharing. best GEORG +1 _______ Trying a tri if you have a chance? f:4 is NOT limiting. Please don't flame me, but (very) occasional Adobe bokeh is more affordable than Leica's, if you can't live without bokeh. I do. Adding OOF risk to all the other photo decisions doesn't improve results imo. If it is daytime, outdoors and you move along with the family or friends somewhere you were never before and still would like to shoot. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
algrove Posted December 19, 2011 Share #52 Posted December 19, 2011 For reasons of security I don't answer such questions. Sorry about that. The old man with tinnitus Where I live for reasons of security, you always say "Yes"! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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