Rolo Posted November 27, 2011 Share #41 Posted November 27, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) Isn't that roughly £2 per roll - pretty much the per roll cost of your original order? Ian, That was my order, they wanted to change it to £2.99 from the £1.99 on the original order. Pirates !! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted November 27, 2011 Posted November 27, 2011 Hi Rolo, Take a look here Characterful Film. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Adji.AP Posted November 28, 2011 Share #42 Posted November 28, 2011 To OP and other gentlemen, would you guys describe what parameters that'll build "character" of a film ? thank you Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NB23 Posted November 28, 2011 Share #43 Posted November 28, 2011 Character= easily recognizable and unique. In this regard, as I said, tmax3200 and D3200 have no equals. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.gt Posted November 28, 2011 Share #44 Posted November 28, 2011 Dave the photo post # 29 is very contrasting , point of view over light / shadownot surprising that the personages are black ! same thing in digital with my M8 or M9 .....no better secondly , it depends on the picture, how it is exposed thirdly, it also depends in part of the scanner Best Henry Yes, I like the results for those times when contrast is desired, but have no idea if I am going to like it nearly as much as Ilford Delta 100 or TriX for that matter. Just too early. I am halfway through my second roll with different motifs and different locales. It will be interesting to see how the second roll comes out. Also, after the scanner, post-processing in PS makes a bit of a difference too. Hoping to finish this roll this week as I need to go back to color film for the holidays. Then we will see how well I am beginning to work with the retro 80s film. Just too early to know at this point. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
leicavirgin2 Posted November 28, 2011 Share #45 Posted November 28, 2011 I did the tri-x and HP5+ game for a while... but until I tried Kodak's TMY-2 (Tmax400 v.2) in Clayton's F76+, or D76, ID-11 and it is as close to a spritual experience you will ever get especially with Leitz/Leica Glass... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Pop Posted November 28, 2011 Share #46 Posted November 28, 2011 I agree that it's hard to determine what defines "character"...and the reality is that everyone has listed most every film in their opinion over the past three pages. Add to that the different possibilities of developing, how some will develop for increased contrast, etc., and the variables become pretty significant. I've used a variety of film, with success and failures across them all (more my fault I'm quite certain!). That being said, I do like Ilford Delta 3200 a lot and have had great success with it on a number of occasions...it's coarse but sharp, if that makes sense. I also really like HP5+, just because it's predictable for me, and also pushes well. I like Pan F as well for a fine grain film in bright outdoors. And Kodak T Max negatives do bow tremendously for me, which is what keeps me away from it...I get Newton rings and/or soft scans. And yes, I use distilled water when processing it. I recently got several rolls of Agfa AGX100 I'm looking forward to trying. Have fun...just experiment; it's helpful sometimes to know what you're looking for in advance - it'll help narrow the mass opinions (but only a little I'm sure!) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
leicavirgin2 Posted November 28, 2011 Share #47 Posted November 28, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) On tmy-2 with leitz/leica glass... here are some examples... developed in Clayton's F76+ @ 1:9 @ 20c/68f... Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/167158-characterful-film/?do=findComment&comment=1855995'>More sharing options...
leicavirgin2 Posted November 28, 2011 Share #48 Posted November 28, 2011 btw... these are all hand developed and scanned on an epson v750PRO @ 4800dpi... Cheers, DM Brown Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith (M) Posted November 28, 2011 Share #49 Posted November 28, 2011 On tmy-2 with leitz/leica glass... here are some examples... developed in Clayton's F76+ @ 1:9 @ 20c/68f... They look good, with excellent, clean tones. Perhaps when my stock of Tri-X has been used, I might just try a roll... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gerard Posted November 28, 2011 Author Share #50 Posted November 28, 2011 To OP and other gentlemen, would you guys describe what parameters that'll build "character" of a film ? thank you My aim was to gain feedback on film types that stand out from the middle ground with unique signatures. By 'characterful' I meant films that can help make certain image types sing at the expense of not neccessarly being good all rounders. Thanks to all those who have left thoughts so far. I guess my dream three films (in order of importance) would be one that makes for a flattering portraits of children, one that makes for gritty street/environmental portraits, and one that is capable of delivering great detail and rich, but not overly warm, colours under low light indoor scenes. I'm sure looking forward to testing a few out. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted November 29, 2011 Share #51 Posted November 29, 2011 Thanks to all those who have left thoughts so far. I guess my dream three films (in order of importance) would be one that makes for a flattering portraits of children, one that makes for gritty street/environmental portraits, and one that is capable of delivering great detail and rich, but not overly warm, colours under low light indoor scenes. So now you want colour as well! I think for B&W you are going to struggle to find the exact film you need for the image you may have in your head. Just choose two films, fast and slow, say HP5 and FP4, and change their characteristic's by trying different developers, it is much easier to get results that way. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomasis7 Posted December 3, 2011 Share #52 Posted December 3, 2011 HP5@800 or 1600 in rodinal or hc-110 is unmistakable. Tri-x in Rodinal is unique, also.But Delta3200 and Tmax3200 are simply oozing character, all the time. I always look out to use D3200 or tmax3200, even in the sun. I don't mind shooting @f16. The character I get from those films easily wins over the over rated bokeh. And to get some bokeh, simply set the hyper focal from minimum focus up to 2 meters @f16 and there you have bokeh and character from the lens as well as from the film. On every trip I go, i ways dedicate 20 rolls of D3200 or Tmax3200 to my xpan and shoot at f16-f22. Character is the best term to describe the results. To answer your question, I personally don't make a big fuss over shooting at 1600 or 3200 as I always choose 3200. I want grain and character, not finesse and silky smoothnes, from my 3200 film. But what's interesting to note is that while tmax3200 can be hard, D3200 can be very smooth. D3200 is my film of choice in my Hasselblads 501cm and SWC as well. When I'm out of it, I am delighted to shoot HP5@1600 and develop in hc-110:B you are da man I feel the same though I run trix at any choosen iso 800-6400 I happened to shoot mixed rolls incl Rollei/Agfa 400 at iso 1600 in Venice, opps. I hope it works with a few hours Rodinal SS which I never tried before. Lets see how dense blacks will get, hm Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sksaito Posted December 4, 2011 Share #53 Posted December 4, 2011 I'm an absolute beginner in film photography. I used to shoot exclusively with an M9 until I started taking classes in photography. I then bought an M3 and started shooting film. I started reading as much as I could about the different types of films out there and reviews on them. I bought Neopan, Delta, Tri-X, Ektar, Agfa. I also try to buy expired films dirt cheap at the local drug stores to practice. I love the way the exposures "pop" and the way its loaded with character compared to digital. I sometimes put exposures from film and digital side by side and marvel at how much more I prefer the film. To each his own I guess as to the kind of film that floats ones boat. Just gotta jump in there, make mistakes, and discover what kind of look you want with your film. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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