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To buy M9 ?


tedyong

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I am thinking of upgrading my cameras, I have C Lux 2, D Lux 4 and a DigiLux. Which should I buy ? D Lux 5 or V Lux 30 ? I am contemplating buying M9 and have been comparing the Canon EOS 1D X. ( Not sure I should be asking in this Forum !!) I am an Architect and I like taking architectural scenes/buildings while traveling to other countries.

Would appreciate some advice. Thank you.

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M9 is terrific for architecture and wide angle lenses in general

Not sure though if tilt and shift is important to you, if so Canon has the best line up

 

1dx is totally different camera. At around 10x the weight

More for rapid fire photography

 

Personally if in to architecture I would choose between the M9 and 5Dii. I wouldn't consider the 1Dx

 

Rgds

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I am thinking of upgrading my cameras, I have C Lux 2, D Lux 4 and a DigiLux. Which should I buy ? D Lux 5 or V Lux 30 ? I am contemplating buying M9 and have been comparing the Canon EOS 1D X. ( Not sure I should be asking in this Forum !!) I am an Architect and I like taking architectural scenes/buildings while traveling to other countries.

Would appreciate some advice. Thank you.

 

I have both the 5D II and the M9. The only advantage of the 5D II, that I can see, is the T/S lenses. For Leica it is the light weight and the fact that you are likely to always carry the camera when you are traveling. I find the 5D II spends a lot more time in the hotel safe than the M9.

 

I would most definitely go for the M9.

 

Hope this helps!

 

Cheers,

Knut

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I like Leica and I would like a good high end ' point and shoot ' kind of camera . I suppose the S series is out for me, cost wise and my level of photography. I suppose I have to learn to be patient to take nice shots.

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I suppose the 5DII is a different class altogether i.e. in terms of price. I am so used to auto focus lens , is it difficult to use the M9 lenses ? Which is the more popular M9, the silver or black ?

 

woohah there

 

MF is a different experience. Some never get on with it, most, like me, end up liking it more then AF as its more accurate, more able to play around with, etc.

 

You should get some practice.

I give here the age old advise of buying a M8 and single lens for a month or more to see if you like it (see my blog).

M8 + Leica lens (new or 2nd hand) can be sold close to their purchase price.

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I like Leica and I would like a good high end ' point and shoot ' kind of camera . I suppose the S series is out for me, cost wise and my level of photography. I suppose I have to learn to be patient to take nice shots.

One thing the M9 is not and that is an automatic point and shoot. It is a camera that presupposes maximum user input to get best results. You have to learn how to focus, you have to learn how to expose. The only thing that has a modicum of automation is the exposure, but even that is easier and better on manual - once you have mastered the system.

The S series is something quite different, that is a medium format DSLR!

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Hi Colonel,

 

Just had a quick look at your blog ( will be reading more later) . Now I can understand what M9 can do !! Beautiful photos and the details/ contract are rich , architectural photography superb. Must have a feel of the camera soon. Cheers :)

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Hi James,

 

Thanks for your response. You are right, I have very little experience in photography but very interested. In the old days was playing with film, black and white, developing and printing.

Now with digital, its only point and shoot and I feel I'm missing out something. Don't quite like the DSLR with too many buttons to fiddle. I am thinking of spending more time now taking photos - architectural photography and with the family. M9 sounds challenging and fun to tinkle with.

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I've known several architects and count one of them as a friend today. IMHO they should all be required to pass a course in photography because many of them are unrealistically demanding of the photography they order. On the one hand, such is a challenge, but on the other it could be a disaster to the photographer to explain and demonstrate how their image cannot be done. My architect friend does watercolors of projects just for that reason.

 

To the OP - I think what you would like is a wide-angle P&S. If I come across one, I will come back with a pointer.

 

Perhaps one of our members can comment upon the Leica D-LUX 5 as a possibility. (I have not used one)

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To the OP - I think what you would like is a wide-angle P&S. If I come across one, I will come back with a pointer.

 

Architectural photography is one area I would never recommend a PS.

Not wide enough, detail is rubbish and no ISO capability (as ISO goes up picture becomes soap at the pixel level, normally starting pretty badly)

 

FF is the way to go

I am sure that pleasing results could be obtained with APS-C if you want to go cheap.

 

Its all a question of money, time and style.

 

If the OP is pretty rich and wants a more thoughtful approach he might well appreciate the M9 experience.

 

If the M9 is a real stretch then I would strongly recommend a 5Dii.

If that is a stetch that any cheap Nikon or Canon DSLR with a decent wide angle lens.

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Architectural photography is one area I would never recommend a PS.

Not wide enough, detail is rubbish and no ISO capability (as ISO goes up picture becomes soap at the pixel level, normally starting pretty badly)

 

FF is the way to go

I am sure that pleasing results could be obtained with APS-C if you want to go cheap.

 

Its all a question of money, time and style.

 

If the OP is pretty rich and wants a more thoughtful approach he might well appreciate the M9 experience.

 

If the M9 is a real stretch then I would strongly recommend a 5Dii.

If that is a stetch that any cheap Nikon or Canon DSLR with a decent wide angle lens.

 

 

I disagree. There are several advantages with a small sensor point and shoot such as the D-Lux 5:

 

The smaller sensor means greater DOF.

 

Wide angle 24mm-equiv. lens (84º angle of view) is usefully wide. You can also get a Panasonic 18mm-equiv. W/A attachment which will extend angle of view to 100º.

 

Live view is very helpful with the grid pattern to help with composition. The LCD is bigger and clearer than the M9's, which has no live view.

 

For best results, I'd stick to 100 or 160 ISO and use a tripod if practicable. I wouldn't use a high ISO for architecture where clarity is essential, even with the M9.

 

The M is not most people's first choice for architecture. Having said that, I shot most pictures for my book on houses with an M6 and slide film a few years ago. The trickiest part is keeping lines straight. A tripod and spirit level in the accessory shoe helps.

 

The M9 is a superb camera and will produce richly detailed pictures. But the D-Lux 5 is surprisingly capable and worth a go -- and always useful as a backup.

 

I agree an alternative might be one of the interchangeable lens compacts like the Panasonic GF2 paired with a Panasonic 7-14mm wideangle (ha, over 180º AOV at its widest, though you probably don't need that...but it is only f/4 compared with f/2 for the D-Lux 5, so you really would need a tripod.)

 

I still prefer to get pictures as right as I can in the camera rather than spend loads of time tweaking them afterwards. But whichever camera you choose, you will find the perspective distortion correction in Lightroom 3 is useful.

 

To reply to your later lens question: Yes, the M9 is wonderful for travel, landscapes, gardens, and all sorts of photography if you decide you'd like one. I'd recommend the 2.8/24 Elmarit ASPH as the least wide but still very useful general purpose lens. Wider lenses tend to be more specialized, but Leica, Zeiss, and Voigtländer all make a good range.

 

Best,

 

David

 

David Killick | Freelance Journalist and Photographer

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Another consideration is that the dynamic range of small sensors has improved markedly in recent years.

 

not much

look at dxomark, they are all abmismal

 

I have a Nikon P300. it's excellent in good light or flash, but it's no where near my old canon 350D

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Yes they have. D-Lux 5 vs. Ricoh GX and GRD of five years ago -- markedly better, even at low ISOs. You are right about high ISO. 400 is about the max unless you want "grain-like" character.

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