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m6 ttl vs m4p


sblitz

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i can get the m4p+voigtlander vc meter II or an m6ttl for essentially the same price. question for you leica film mavens, which is the better choice? i have an m9 so this is really a camera to keep me in the film world that i enjoy and grew up with. quick read says the m4p is better built and that the external meter is easier and in some ways better than the one built into the m6. so, which do you guys&gals feel is the better way to go?

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If you have to have an onboard meter then get the M6TTL. The VC II is nice but its not as nice to use as a built in meter.

However I have an M4-P and I bought an m6 a few month back to use for silly cheap price. I use a hand held meter with my M4-p which I used to think held me back but using the M6 I felt I spent half the time trying to get the meter to the correct exposure.

 

I much prefer using a separate meter, especially for outdoor photography. Its quicker to get a reading and you tend not to worry about it when taking the next shot, where as with an m6 you have an LED saying DO NOT SHOOT EXPOSURE OFF!

 

I sold the M6 after 2 weeks...

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chris -- you seem to be arguing in favor of m4p + meter over the m6 ... fair enough point. some think the onboard is better than having a handheld .. different horses i guess. did you notice a quality difference between the two cameras?

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I don't know that the M4-P is better built than the M6. The real dividing line in build quality (if any) was between the Wetzlar-made M4, and the "modernized" M4-2 (and everything after it, including the -P).

 

I definitely would NOT want to have a meter stuck in the accesory shoe, so I'd just have to choose between the convenience of the M6, and a hand-held meter with an M4-P.

 

I've used both, both require knowledge and practice to use whichever meter applies, both worked if used right. The M6 (including ttl version) meter is a semi-spot, so you can't just compose, meter, and shoot - you have to meter a medium tone, recompose and shoot. As Chris says, not much faster than a separate meter.

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adam -- i am much more used to using in-camera metering and understanding the differences from one camera to another. i used to change the focusing screen in my canon new f1 purposely to change the meter from spot to semispot to average. carrying a meter around is something my dad did with his leica iiif and growing up it seemed like a rather antiquated way to do things, and a real pain if you want to use filters (remembering the adjustment factor, etc). i am older now and the idea of a separate doesn't too odd to me and worth the effort if it puts into my hands a better built camera. but as you say, there is no discernible quality difference between the m4p and the m6. and i have read enough of your responses in various threads on this forum to respect your opinion.

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I use an M4-P. I shoot B/W only and I don't use a meter because I honestly know what I'm doing... I prefer my camera over an M6 TTL anytime. Brass vs Nickel to begin with... Size and the reassuring feeling of having no battery-dependance whatsoever...

And frankly...; Who really actually uses that TTL-flash-metering contraption, anyway?

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I much prefer using a separate meter, especially for outdoor photography. Its quicker to get a reading and you tend not to worry about it when taking the next shot, where as with an m6 you have an LED saying DO NOT SHOOT EXPOSURE OFF!

I agree, a hand held meter (especially selenium or silicon cell) is faster and more convenient than one built-in. Also it is much less noticeable to use when trying to keep a low profile :cool:. Just think, no batteries at all for your photography :p:P. By the way, I use both M4P and M6's. Both great cameras :D. David

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Black chrome is duller, flatter looking than paint. The finish looks thinner too. If there are wear marks the color showing through will be gray. To me it does not make any difference. My Rollei is black paint and it shows considerable wear, my M6 is black chrome and it still looks like new. I use them to take photos with, not to look at. I would buy which ever one you like and forget about what it is made of.

 

Wayne

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not sure the store will let me use the drop test, but i will check to see if the windows are flush. don't care about signs of use, as long as it isn't abuse. camera is meant to be used, not being purchased as a collectors item. don't see cameras that way -- never have.

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M4-P with flush windows is Zinc. And if you drop it, it will crack.

 

Drop your M and it's over, period.

 

Last of your worry is a big maybe if the zinc will crack (chances it won't). Primary worries is RF out of focus, parts getting lose, RF mirror/glass cracking.

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Drop your M and it's over, period.

 

Last of your worry is a big maybe if the zinc will crack (chances it won't). Primary worries is RF out of focus, parts getting lose, RF mirror/glass cracking.

 

Well said.

 

I don't think I'd be saying "good thing it's brass and not a zinc camera" after dropping it

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A non-metered M4-P would be my pick. Get a brass top one with recessed vf windows. It will have the older more accurate frame line mask for the 50mm as was in the classic Ms. I dislike the red LEDs in VF of

metered Ms; it can be very distracting when shooting in low light, even creating a red haze that makes it lame to frame. Using a non-metered M is faster once you get a read on the light, especially if you shoot bw negatives.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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