stump4545 Posted October 4, 2011 Share #1 Posted October 4, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) if i am doing post processing work on a image that i intend to print only at 4x6, should i try to work on that file viewing it at the same measurement on my 27in imac or is the result the same if i edit it full screen? what is the rule of thumb? is it always better to edit at full screen even if the intended output is only 4x6? thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted October 4, 2011 Posted October 4, 2011 Hi stump4545, Take a look here ideal size of image on screen for post processing. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
stunsworth Posted October 4, 2011 Share #2 Posted October 4, 2011 I always process at the largest size that will fit on the screen - I assume you're using a full sized original. If I'm spotting a negative I'll zoom in to 100% or more. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted October 5, 2011 Share #3 Posted October 5, 2011 Yes always work on an image at maximum file size, screen size is irrelvent but obviously you want to make it big enough to see comfortably, so fill your screen up! When you get it how you want save it as a TIFF file and think of it as your 'master' copy. From that TIFF resize the image to 4x6 and at whatever resolution and file format you need. I like to sharpen only according to the size of end image, so I never sharpen a 'master' other than using very mild input sharpening, just enough to access the image for focus etc. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
roguewave Posted October 5, 2011 Share #4 Posted October 5, 2011 These are good suggestions for a master strategy regarding managing your images & workflow. I agree that the first rendering should be full size and that you should d all the processing, with the exception of sharpening and to save a copy as a "master file". It's inevitable that at sometime in the future, you will make changes to this file, as your sensibilities change. At least for me, I'm always trying to remain open to new ways of visualizing and processing to get to the essence of what I'm looking for. When you go to process a desired rendering, start with a copy of the "master" and then cook till done. I like experimenting with smaller images, i.e., 1K, so as to learn how different levels of sharpening, toning, vignetting.... effect the final image. Be vigilant to make sure you don't get in rut or just perform the processing by rote. Give yourself the chance to experiment and "stretch out". Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
delander † Posted October 8, 2011 Share #5 Posted October 8, 2011 Once I've resized the image to the print size I view it at 50% and then do the sharpening. If it looks good at 50% then usually it will be fine when printed. Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidbaddley Posted October 14, 2011 Share #6 Posted October 14, 2011 100% means that every pixel in the image will be seen as a pixel on the monitor. Pixels are hidden with anything less. For critical operations like retouching, sharpening, and placing highlights, viewing at less than 100% may allow you to miss something. Also, sometimes pictures look funny when viewed at smaller sizes because of how they are rendered (reduced) to fit on the monitor. Sorry if I'm telling you stuff that you already know, but your picture at 100% is so much larger on your monitor than it is in print because the resolution (PPI) of monitors is much lower than the resolution of prints. You don't need to be there all the time, but go into 100% once in a while to see what you're really getting. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
adan Posted October 15, 2011 Share #7 Posted October 15, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) You don't need to be there all the time, but go into 100% once in a while to see what you're really getting. Right. And the same is true for 50%, and for "fit to screen". I zoom in and out all the time - depending on what part of the processing I am doing. 50% for an accurate impression of how the image will print (printing will hid some details (and flaws) that are visible at 100%); fit to screen for global adjustments like dodging/burning or saturation/hue changes; 100% for dust removal and sharpening. More with film then digital, if I am using Unsharp Mask, I make the full picture visible, since the Unsharp Mask tool automatically gives a 100% detail view as well (picture within picture). I can navigate the 100% window around every part of the picture to check what artifacts and effect the sharpening is creating on different textures and grain and such, while viewing the effects in the Unsharp Mask box at 100%. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronan Posted October 15, 2011 Share #8 Posted October 15, 2011 And this is why i have 5000 gig of hard drives... Who's glad HDD's are cheap now! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.