miss_emma_jade Posted August 25, 2011 Share #1 Posted August 25, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) I have been shooting fp4+ 100 and delta 400 pro pretty exclusively for a couple years now. one daylight loader is empty though, and rather than buy another roll of 400, i thought maybe there was a slightly faster film than 100, that might work in my leica 11f with a 500 max speed? all i can find is a foma film, there must be others too. anyone have any ideas? EMMA Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted August 25, 2011 Posted August 25, 2011 Hi miss_emma_jade, Take a look here a good black and white 160 or 200 speed film?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Michael Hiles Posted August 25, 2011 Share #2 Posted August 25, 2011 I like Ilford XP2 and Kodak 400CN. They produce smooth, almost grainless negatives that are very sharp. If you like grain and grit, these films will not satisfy - from 35mm they look like Tri-X 6x6 or 6x9 for smoothness and creamyness. Both are best exposed for 200 ASA (they say 400 ASA on the box). 200 gives negatives with excellent shadow detail. They very forgiving - 1 stop over or under exposure will still produce quire usable negative, but 200 is ideal for best detail and smoothness. They also have a minor advantage - they are processed in C41 chemistry, the same as for colour negative film. This means the negatives can be processed anywhere that colour print film is processed. This is not, however, the reason to use them. They are simply very nice films, regardless of the processing technicalities. Most of what I post here is based on Ilford XP2 - take a look. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stunsworth Posted August 25, 2011 Share #3 Posted August 25, 2011 A small point. FP4 is 125 not 100. If you want to use a film at 200 I'd go for Tri-x with development adjusted accordingly. Personally I don't think there's enough difference between 125 and 200 to make it worthwhile, but that's just me. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
miss_emma_jade Posted August 26, 2011 Author Share #4 Posted August 26, 2011 A small point. FP4 is 125 not 100. If you want to use a film at 200 I'd go for Tri-x with development adjusted accordingly. Personally I don't think there's enough difference between 125 and 200 to make it worthwhile, but that's just me. oops. a typo. yes it is. i do develop my own, c41 gets a little expensive. ill shoot fp4 today and see how it goes. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Hiles Posted August 26, 2011 Share #5 Posted August 26, 2011 Many people have sworn by Trx-X in HC110 exposed for 200 ASA for many years. Worth a try. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff S Posted August 26, 2011 Share #6 Posted August 26, 2011 Many people have sworn by Trx-X in HC110 exposed for 200 ASA for many years. Worth a try. I always did film speed tests first and, depending on the camera, ended up using ASA 250 or 320 with Tri-X and HC110. Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
digbyhp Posted August 26, 2011 Share #7 Posted August 26, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) I have been shooting fp4+ 100 and delta 400 pro pretty exclusively for a couple years now. one daylight loader is empty though, and rather than buy another roll of 400, i thought maybe there was a slightly faster film than 100, that might work in my leica 11f with a 500 max speed? all i can find is a foma film, there must be others too. anyone have any ideas? EMMA The Massive Dev Chart gives developing times for FP4+ when exposed @ 200, so I guess its possible to up the speed of FP4+ just as long as you develop it accordingly. I use FP4+ but haven't tried this yet, so I can't tell you the results from experience, but worth experimenting. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Hiles Posted August 26, 2011 Share #8 Posted August 26, 2011 The Massive Dev Chart gives developing times for FP4+ when exposed @ 200, so I guess its possible to up the speed of FP4+ just as long as you develop it accordingly. I use FP4+ but haven't tried this yet, so I can't tell you the results from experience, but worth experimenting. In my experience, you can't up the speed. All films have an inherent sensitivity that is built in during the manufacturing process. Trying to up the speed will deliver under exposed negatives with thin shadow detail. Maybe you can make prints, but the quality will be sub-optimum. As Jeff alludes above, the best way is to test - look for adequate exposure in the shadows (Zone 1-2-3), and adjust development time to assure "un-blown" highlights. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbretteville Posted August 26, 2011 Share #9 Posted August 26, 2011 Tri-X at 320 souped in HC-110 dilution B for 6:30mins. Never fails. Carl Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff S Posted August 26, 2011 Share #10 Posted August 26, 2011 Tri-X at 320 souped in HC-110 dilution B for 6:30mins. Never fails.Carl Based on your camera (shutter), your water temp, your agitation procedure, etc. Others may follow this and be fine, but best results require personal testing and consistent approach. Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Hiles Posted August 27, 2011 Share #11 Posted August 27, 2011 Based on your camera (shutter), your water temp, your agitation procedure, etc. Others may follow this and be fine, but best results require personal testing and consistent approach. Jeff Absolutely. Best advice. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
roguewave Posted August 28, 2011 Share #12 Posted August 28, 2011 TriX - 400. The most beautiful grain of any film. It is so versatile from 200 - 1600 iso. There's just nothing like it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eastgreenlander Posted August 28, 2011 Share #13 Posted August 28, 2011 I am for Tri X @ 200 developed in D76 delution 1+1, in 8:40 minutes. Check my website. Most of my resent post is that combo. Love to use my M6+ 50mm noct 0.95 + Tri X @ 200. (thanks BobYIL for the recommendation) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotohuis Posted August 28, 2011 Share #14 Posted August 28, 2011 What do you think of Fomapan T200, available in 135-36 and 30,5m/100ft too. But in reality this film is in most developers iso 125-160. A very nice classical look due to the mix of cubical and hexagonal silver halogenide crystals which makes this film rather unique. Here an example in Rodinal / R09 with the M7, Elmarit 2,8/28mm + Y filter. E.I. 160 in a pretty low contrast scene. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/160177-a-good-black-and-white-160-or-200-speed-film/?do=findComment&comment=1777624'>More sharing options...
miss_emma_jade Posted August 28, 2011 Author Share #15 Posted August 28, 2011 What do you think of Fomapan T200, available in 135-36 and 30,5m/100ft too. But in reality this film is in most developers iso 125-160. A very nice classical look due to the mix of cubical and hexagonal silver halogenide crystals which makes this film rather unique. Here an example in Rodinal / R09 with the M7, Elmarit 2,8/28mm + Y filter. E.I. 160 in a pretty low contrast scene. O h i love that. might have to get a few rolls. Ive never had problems with eastern films much, except efke which is a bit soft. wonder if it comes on a 100ft roll?? Emma Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Hiles Posted August 28, 2011 Share #16 Posted August 28, 2011 What do you think of Fomapan T200, available in 135-36 and 30,5m/100ft too. But in reality this film is in most developers iso 125-160. A very nice classical look due to the mix of cubical and hexagonal silver halogenide crystals which makes this film rather unique. Here an example in Rodinal / R09 with the M7, Elmarit 2,8/28mm + Y filter. E.I. 160 in a pretty low contrast scene. A very attractive picture. I think this is an excellent example of Rodinal's most evident property - high accutance. Even in this small "print", there is a sense of detail and sharpness. Rodinal does not give a sense of fine grain - so if fine grain is wanted, slower film is required. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotohuis Posted August 28, 2011 Share #17 Posted August 28, 2011 OK, another one. Same film and camera, lens. BTW amazing that in February the temperature in Prague/Praha can be -25C and that this camera is still working. Then you're glad you can handle a Leica-M with gloves too Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/160177-a-good-black-and-white-160-or-200-speed-film/?do=findComment&comment=1777934'>More sharing options...
fotohuis Posted August 28, 2011 Share #18 Posted August 28, 2011 and the last one of this mini serie's Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/160177-a-good-black-and-white-160-or-200-speed-film/?do=findComment&comment=1777936'>More sharing options...
Learner Posted September 4, 2011 Share #19 Posted September 4, 2011 Michael you wrote: "I like Ilford XP2 and Kodak 400CN. They produce smooth, almost grainless negatives that are very sharp. Both are best exposed for 200 ASA (they say 400 ASA on the box)." I don't understand why there are 2 ASA numbers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Hiles Posted September 5, 2011 Share #20 Posted September 5, 2011 Michael you wrote: "I like Ilford XP2 and Kodak 400CN. They produce smooth, almost grainless negatives that are very sharp. Both are best exposed for 200 ASA (they say 400 ASA on the box)." I don't understand why there are 2 ASA numbers. All films have a designed-in sensitivity that is rated as ASA or ISO (same number). Your shutter, lens and meter are unique, and it is best to test what ASA produces the best negatives. By “best negative” we usually mean that Zone I (deepest shadow before black) is a density of 0.1 in the negative. There is a simple testing procedure to determine what ASA setting produces this density. A good description of the test procedure can be found at Zone System Film Testing. It is quite simple, and a 1 time only exercise. With an accurate shutter (good condition body), standardized lens (all modern lenses) and an accurate meter, most people find that XP2 and 400CN produce a satisfactory density for this Zone I (0.1) using 200 ASA. This means giving 1 stop more exposure than if we assume 400ASA. Both these films are very forgiving and using 400ASA (or 100ASA) still produces very satisfactory negatives, but the best range of densities seems to be produced by using 200ASA. You will often hear "Expose for the shadows" - this achieves that goal. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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