Adji.AP Posted July 22, 2011 Share #1 Posted July 22, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) Does anybody have experience using this vintage tank? Do this thing really worked? How to cut the end of the film? Could it be used to develop 35mm negative B/W films instead of color or slide film? Does it often make films to jammed? I provide this link in regards to those issues http://www.usask.ca/lists/alt-photo-process-l/200710/msg00211.htmlt thank you Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/157539-kodak-day-load-tank/?do=findComment&comment=1742069'>More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted July 22, 2011 Posted July 22, 2011 Hi Adji.AP, Take a look here Kodak day-load tank. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Michael Hiles Posted July 22, 2011 Share #2 Posted July 22, 2011 Can't specifically answer your questions. But, this type of tank relies on rotating the film spindle for agitation. This is a bad idea, because that type of agitation can cause eddies around the sprocket holes which causes uneven development and apparent swirls close to the sprocket holes. Agitation should move the developer - not the film. OK - I know - nobody asked. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tobey bilek Posted July 22, 2011 Share #3 Posted July 22, 2011 Do not reinvent the wheel. Paterson and various stainless tanks work perfectly. And rotating the reel is poor agitation Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
aesop Posted July 22, 2011 Share #4 Posted July 22, 2011 Do not reinvent the wheel. Paterson and various stainless tanks work perfectly. And rotating the reel is poor agitation ...hmmm, I have rotated for years without any eddies or problems. The resultant negatives (and prints) are way beyond fine. What am I doing right? Seriously, are you able to provide further substantive information or direction (e.g. links, etc.) on this specific point. Apologies to the OP for the quasi-hijack. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted July 22, 2011 Share #5 Posted July 22, 2011 Does anybody have experience using this vintage tank?Do this thing really worked? How to cut the end of the film? Could it be used to develop 35mm negative B/W films instead of color or slide film? Does it often make films to jammed? I provide this link in regards to those issues http://www.usask.ca/lists/alt-photo-process-l/200710/msg00211.htmlt thank you Hi Adji, I have a "Jobo automat" tank where I can develop film in daylight like this Kodak tank It must operate on the same principle : it allows you to unwind the film in daylight Be sure to close the tank so that the light does not come inside. Usually, I develop in a special room of my house Popular Mechanics - Google Books If any further questions do not hesitate , experts on LUF will give you advice http://www.photomemorabilia.co.uk/Paterson/Developing_Tanks/Tank_History.html Best Henry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
spydrxx Posted July 22, 2011 Share #6 Posted July 22, 2011 I used one years ago for a few months until I found a used Leica/AGFA/Rondinax (badged by different sellers) one which was similar to the ones used in the 1950s in my science class. Works much better. I've been using one of these for the last 12-13 years. I also used their daylight one for 120 film when I had a 120 camera. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted July 22, 2011 Share #7 Posted July 22, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) I took this picture for Adji . I currently use these tanks for b&w film 24x36 mm : On left , "Jobo automat" daylight tank previously mentioned and at right classic "Jobo tank" that needs a film "changing darkroom" cotton bag to unwind the film in light You can also use"Rondinax daylight tank" as Spy said ! Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! You also see a part of my laboratory, with a near point of water (essential if you want to develop yourself) photo taken with M9 Apo Summicron 90 mm asph Best Henry Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! You also see a part of my laboratory, with a near point of water (essential if you want to develop yourself) photo taken with M9 Apo Summicron 90 mm asph Best Henry ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/157539-kodak-day-load-tank/?do=findComment&comment=1742508'>More sharing options...
Adji.AP Posted July 24, 2011 Author Share #8 Posted July 24, 2011 Thank you Doc for your advice and to other gentlemen as well I am contemplating on Jobo automat now thank you I took this picture for Adji . I currently use these tanks for b&w film 24x36 mm : On left , "Jobo automat" daylight tank previously mentioned and at right classic "Jobo tank" that needs a film "changing darkroom" cotton bag to unwind the film in light You can also use"Rondinax daylight tank" as Spy said ! [ATTACH]269376[/ATTACH] You also see a part of my laboratory, with a near point of water (essential if you want to develop yourself) photo taken with M9 Apo Summicron 90 mm asph Best Henry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbretteville Posted July 29, 2011 Share #9 Posted July 29, 2011 Do not reinvent the wheel. Paterson and various stainless tanks work perfectly. And rotating the reel is poor agitation Inverting a Paterson tank is messy, it leaks. I used to use it that way and thought it should be that way. I now know better, rotating the reels works fine for me. AFAIK rotating the reels is Patterson's recommended method. Use mine mostly for 120 as I preferr a stainless tank with Hewes reels and a Kindermann lid for 135 film. no leaks. Carl Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted July 29, 2011 Share #10 Posted July 29, 2011 I swirl my developer for 10 seconds per minute. 5 seconds clockwise, 5 seconds anti-clockwise. Then tap the tank on the cloth on the worktop to dislodge any air bubbles. Never have a problem. "It's all in the wrist action" Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted July 31, 2011 Share #11 Posted July 31, 2011 Hi The Agfa tanks are ok but you could get wake from the sprocket holes if you attach an electric drill to the spiral spindle, wheeeeeeee. You only need to rotate slowly... Never had problems with bubbles. Noel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
christer Posted August 1, 2011 Share #12 Posted August 1, 2011 Inverting a Paterson tank is messy, it leaks. I used to use it that way and thought it should be that way. I now know better, rotating the reels works fine for me...........Carl YES; +1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adji.AP Posted August 5, 2011 Author Share #13 Posted August 5, 2011 Inverting a Paterson tank is messy, it leaks. I used to use it that way and thought it should be that way. I now know better, rotating the reels works fine for me. AFAIK rotating the reels is Patterson's recommended method. Use mine mostly for 120 as I preferr a stainless tank with Hewes reels and a Kindermann lid for 135 film. no leaks.Carl what is inverting a tank? does it something different from developing a negatives? anybody point me a link explains this? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronan Posted August 5, 2011 Share #14 Posted August 5, 2011 what is inverting a tank? does it something different from developing a negatives? anybody point me a link explains this? Upside down. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adji.AP Posted August 5, 2011 Author Share #15 Posted August 5, 2011 Upside down. and why do we need to upside it down? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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