snowfun Posted July 11, 2011 Share #1 Posted July 11, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hi All, Further to my recent post about what to buy, I now have a gorgeous mint M8.2 in black. Absolutely lovely it is too. Budget constraints meant that - for now - I have a VC 35/f2.5. Beautifully tiny and ideal for travel (the main reason for dumping the (film) 'Blad). My question - and given that I will be primarily taking outdoor shots of architecture & general scenes - should I use a UR/IV filter? The lens isn't coded - would it be preferable to have this done (I assume a DIY job using a template?) in addition to/instead of the UV/IR? I did notice a rather obvious patch of cyan sky in the corner this afternoon... Thanks everyone who chips in! Best wishes, Tim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted July 11, 2011 Posted July 11, 2011 Hi snowfun, Take a look here Filter advice for a new M8.2 owner please!. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
jaapv Posted July 11, 2011 Share #2 Posted July 11, 2011 Yes. Just get B&W 486 filters. And superglue them to your lenses Coding the CV 35/2.5 is a borderline decision. I didn't when I still had the lens. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Telyt2003 Posted July 12, 2011 Share #3 Posted July 12, 2011 ...Budget constraints meant that - for now - I have a VC 35/f2.5. Beautifully tiny and ideal for travel (the main reason for dumping the (film) 'Blad). My question - and given that I will be primarily taking outdoor shots of architecture & general scenes - should I use a UR/IV filter? The lens isn't coded - would it be preferable to have this done (I assume a DIY job using a template?) in addition to/instead of the UV/IR? I did notice a rather obvious patch of cyan sky in the corner this afternoon... ... Hi Tim, I would recommend to always use UV/IR-cut filters with the M8 for colour photos, or at least whenever possible (on the contrary, for bw photos the M8's IR-sensitivity can be an advantage). Since you get cyan shift in the corners, you are already using an UV/IR-cut filter, aren't you? (and the lens is uncoded). To my experience, any uncoded 35mm lens on the M8 (approx. 50 mm equivalent focal length), when used with an UV/IR-cut filter, in principle will produce cyan shift in the corners which, however, is obvious only in certain situations. These cyan shifted corners often/mostly cannot be noticed, or at least remain unnoticed, in complex scenes (or with bright blue sky). They may become obvious whenever you photograph bright and/or uniform scenes which stretch to the corners (overcast/grey sky, sand, snow, bright walls ...) If you want to avoid these cyan corners in all possible situations, the 35 mm lenses should be coded on the M8 (and used with UV/IR-cut filters, and "coded with UV/IR" activated in the menu). Alternatively (with uncoded 35 mm lenses used with UV/IR-cut filters), CornerFix may be applied in/before post-processing of the DNGs whenever cyan shifted corners are visible/disturbing. Best regards, Telyt2003 NB: I am sometimes using my Cosina "Voigtländer" Color-Skopar 35/2,5, a Pancake (v.1) with E43 filter thread on the M8. With a step-up E43-to-E46 filter adapter, an E46 UV/IR-cut standard filter can be used on it, and at the same time one has something like a minimal sunshade 'surrogate' (since the original sunshade is hard to find). Does your VC 35/f2.5 have the E39 filter thread? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted July 12, 2011 Share #4 Posted July 12, 2011 Telyt is correct about the cyan drift. It can occur on this lens if the IR content of the image is very high and you have sensitive subject matter in the corners ( snow, clouds, etc) However, in those (fairly rare) cases a simple LCC profile in C1 or the use of Cornerfix will set you right. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ErikP Posted July 13, 2011 Share #5 Posted July 13, 2011 Hi All, Further to my recent post about what to buy, I now have a gorgeous mint M8.2 in black. Absolutely lovely it is too. Budget constraints meant that - for now - I have a VC 35/f2.5. Beautifully tiny and ideal for travel (the main reason for dumping the (film) 'Blad). " My question - and given that I will be primarily taking outdoor shots of architecture & general scenes - should I use a UR/IV filter? The lens isn't coded - would it be preferable to have this done (I assume a DIY job using a template?) in addition to/instead of the UV/IR? " Try to register your M8 on Leicas site and if you are lucky you will be able to get two, (2), free IR filters. Regards Erik Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peekpt Posted July 13, 2011 Share #6 Posted July 13, 2011 I think a rectangular removable filter fixed in front of the shutter curtain will solve all lenses problems instead of buying for each lens one. Thoughts on this? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_newell Posted July 13, 2011 Share #7 Posted July 13, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) I think a rectangular removable filter fixed in front of the shutter curtain will solve all lenses problems instead of buying for each lens one. Thoughts on this? IIRC, Leica basically answered this question in a variety of forms when the M8 was introduced, and the answer in a nutshell was that the effect on image quality was unacceptable. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ramosa Posted July 14, 2011 Share #8 Posted July 14, 2011 Yes, get the filter for any lens on an M8--and get 6-bit coding for any lens 35mm or wider ... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilfredo Posted July 14, 2011 Share #9 Posted July 14, 2011 Ramosa sums it up. Those filters are always on my M lenses since I only use those lenses on my M8. Cheers! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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