gtownby Posted May 16, 2011 Share #1 Posted May 16, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) I've been shooting LA street scenes with Velvia recently, but this photo just called out to be in B&W. So, in my first attempt using Silver EFX Pro 1 on color film, here is the result. MP with 35mm 'Cron. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/151837-velvia-to-tri-x-via-silver-efx-pro/?do=findComment&comment=1673489'>More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted May 16, 2011 Posted May 16, 2011 Hi gtownby, Take a look here Velvia to 'Tri-X' via Silver EFX Pro. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
andybarton Posted May 16, 2011 Share #2 Posted May 16, 2011 That doesn't have the tonal range that Tri-X would have given you. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted May 16, 2011 Share #3 Posted May 16, 2011 I don't think starting off with a high contrast image is going to help get any conventionally accurate tones for film effects using Efex Pro, as in you can't add tones that aren't there. But I can think of many ways to process and print Tri-X that would get you to the same look as the image you post, so don't give up, you are only wrong if you don't like it. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
esquire53 Posted May 17, 2011 Share #4 Posted May 17, 2011 before looking at Silver EFX and what it is capable, maybe the scan from the Velvia needs some improvements first. I recently moved to EFX 2 and has truely improved over EFX Pro. I used the film presets sometimes, but now, I think I'll won't use it anymore. Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
microview Posted May 20, 2011 Share #5 Posted May 20, 2011 Maybe Ilford Pan F Plus 50 would have been better choice in SilverEfex program? But colour better captures late afternoon light, which I would have thought the raison d'être of taking this shot. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/151837-velvia-to-tri-x-via-silver-efx-pro/?do=findComment&comment=1677446'>More sharing options...
stunsworth Posted May 20, 2011 Share #6 Posted May 20, 2011 The problem is with the original film you chose to use. You will have more success with a lower contrast E41 negative film. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
antistatic Posted May 22, 2011 Share #7 Posted May 22, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) I am a big fan of Silver FX2 however I have found the "film" presets have been way over the top for grain and contrast. Not like the real films at all. I will occasionally add a little grain to noisy (iso > 1600) images with the M9. As others have said, you will not get the tonal range from most E6 film to match TriX Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted May 22, 2011 Share #8 Posted May 22, 2011 I am a big fan of Silver FX2 however I have found the "film" presets have been way over the top for grain and contrast. Not like the real films at all. The film preset is only a suggested starting point, have you looked at all the variables you can change? If you want less contrast adjust the contrast, its only like choosing a different film developer for Tri-X, or using a lower contrast paper in the darkroom. With film you can infinitely vary the subtleties of grain, tonal range, and contrast just by the way its developed. In the printing darkroom the choice of paper, developer, and technique also add many many variables. This is the sort of control Efex Pro 2 gives you. There is no such thing as a definitive Tri-X look, just a way the tones Tri-X renders are typically arranged mainly in the mid tone range. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gtownby Posted May 22, 2011 Author Share #9 Posted May 22, 2011 Maybe Ilford Pan F Plus 50 would have been better choice in SilverEfex program? But colour better captures late afternoon light, which I would have thought the raison d'être of taking this shot. All -- Thanks for those tips! Yes, as I use Silver EFX more, I'm discovering there is a lot more than Tri-X to consider. I shoot both digital (M9) and film (scanned via Nikon 9000) and I'm just happy to know that when shooting color film I still have a decent choice after the fact. (And yes, microview, the late afternoon light is my reason for taking to the streets after work. In many cases, [such as this one] the highlights that occur are not necessarily directly from the setting sun, but from the building reflections.) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
antistatic Posted May 23, 2011 Share #10 Posted May 23, 2011 Steve, I agree that the amount of control you have on all parameters is what make SFX2 so good. For me, I usually go straight to the sliders rather than the presets. I know that the presets can serve as a jump off point for further adjustments. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted May 23, 2011 Share #11 Posted May 23, 2011 Steve, I agree that the amount of control you have on all parameters is what make SFX2 so good. For me, I usually go straight to the sliders rather than the presets. I know that the presets can serve as a jump off point for further adjustments. Ahh, I see, sorry. Yes that is what I do, although sometimes I find a preset can provoke an idea or another way to see something. The presets in Silver Efex 2 are not alone in needing a generally lower contrast image to start with to create a good film simulation. Colour Efex Pro does the same sort of thing, the film effects are extreme and unworkable unless an otherwise OK image is first desaturated a bit and then the contrast reduced. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beyder28 Posted May 23, 2011 Share #12 Posted May 23, 2011 Just curious, how much on average would you desaturate an image in Aperture (or whatever program you use) and reduce contrast? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
delander † Posted May 23, 2011 Share #13 Posted May 23, 2011 A couple of years ago I tried the SEP 15 day trial and although I liked it I began to see more and more images where the use of SEP seemed obvious. So I never got around to buying it. Four days ago I bought SEP2 and have been playing with it eversince. But it seems to me that something has happened in the last two years. Lightroom and ACR/Photoshop have progressed significantly and I must admit that what I can do in SEP2 does not seem that different to what can be achieved (more easily than before) in LR/ACR/Photoshop. I know SEP has the control points but a lot of that can be achieved in LR/ACR or even the dodge/burn tools in Photoshop. And of course SEP2 is not cheap. So my advice to anyone thinking of SEP2 but put off by the cost, get the trial to find out if you really need it. Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted May 23, 2011 Share #14 Posted May 23, 2011 Four days? More easily in LR3 and Photoshop? I've been using Silver Efex Pro for over two years, and even with Pro 2 coming along I am still exploring the limits of it. Despite having CS5 (arguably a considerably more powerful tool than LR3) Efex Pro is miles ahead. It is true, everything that is done in Efex Pro can be done in CS5, but at what price to your sanity? Can you just go to a slider in LR and adjust the highlight micro contrast (along with mid tone, and then shadow)? Can you add a facsimile of film grain rather than just add noise, and with just the touch of a slider? Can you add photographic borders in CS5? Can you adjust a massive number of parameters in one window without creating multiple layers? If your time is worth anything, if you really want a usable system for mimicking the darkroom, then Efex Pro is it. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
delander † Posted May 23, 2011 Share #15 Posted May 23, 2011 I think I did not make my comment perfectly clear. My reference to 'more easily' in LR/Photoshop refers to using earlier versions of those products, not a direct comparison to SEP2. With regard to borders they are one of the features that shout SEP2! Of course I'm not going to abandon SEP2 after just 4 days. Edit: The loupe in SEP2 is hopeless and other than that you cant zoom in to see the effect of your changes in the main window. Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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