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Leica 135mm lens on an M8


Timmyjoe

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Really confused and not finding the information I seek.

 

The 135mm focal length equivalent on an M8 is about 180mm and that is just what I need for a few upcoming projects. I have read many places that the 135mm lens is difficult to focus on a Leica M, especially the Leica M8.

 

I've also seen these magnifier "goggles" that come with some 135mm Leica lenses. Will these work with an M8?

 

Is anyone here using a Leica 135mm lens on their M8, and if so, can you share how you've done it? Are you focusing with the standard viewfinder, or using some kind of "goggles" or auxiliary viewfinder? Are you able to focus the lens sharply?

 

Thanks for any and all info.

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Hi I have an old cheap 135mm Hektor that I use on my M8 now and again and have no problem focusing but I do have 1.25x magnifier attached to my standard viewfinder, this screws into the standard viewfinder and to be honest I leave it attached all of the time irrespective of the lens I have on the camera . I used to find that I lost too many when I removed them . I must add that I only ever use this lens wide open at f.4.5 and in good lighting conditions.

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Paul, thanks for the info. Where does one find one of those 1.25x magnifiers? And does that screw onto the circular viewfinder window that I put my eye up to when focusing the camera? (I've used an M for eleven years now and never knew anything about additional attachments to the viewfinder, guess I've been living in a cave. :o)

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Hi it does just screw into the standard viewfinder on the M8. I got mine on ebay its only a cheap one from HK but it works fine . I think Leica actually do the genuine article and I think in different magnifications but my pocket can only stretch to the cost of the copy's because as I said previously they are very easily lost, even if I screw them in tight they seem too unscrew and fall off.

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I have used my Elmar 135 on the M8 without the extra magnifier.It helps if you stop it down to f8 or so, but even at f4 you get a lot of keepers.

Try it first without magnifier. You can always add it later.

 

 

The results are great. I love how it renders.

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I have the 135mm Elmarit. It has goggles which can not be detached. I can't quite remember what framelines it brings up. I have focusing issues with mine but only for the reason that the glass of the goggles is badly scratched; thus, the contrast in the viewfinder is rather low.

 

Examples of shots with this lens on an M8 (original) are here:

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/nature-wildlife/145368-scrutiny.html and

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/tier-natur/145389-pelikan.html

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I picked up a decent 1970s version of the Tele-Elmar f4 lens, quite cheaply. It back-focused until I adjusted the cam and now it is fine. I have used it for photographing stage shows and also landscapes. I tend to use it stopped down a bit (due to not having the focus spot on initially).

Attached image from Barmouth hotel window 1/180 at f8.

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Tim, the 135 Elmarit with goggles will work on the M8; I believe it will magnify the 90 frame. It is a good lens, but old and rather heavy for travel use.

 

The 135mm is a seldom-used lens so, after much research I bought a very good 135mm Elmar at a reasonable price which, with some post-processing, yields more than acceptable results. F8 is probably better than wide open; but portraits wide open give you excellent control of DOF. I mainly use the lens for distant details in landscapes, animals, human portraits and like the example below.

 

I have attached a picture taken at an air-show in UK last year of the new Airbus A380. M8 + 1960s 135mm Elmar; exposure 1/2000th @ f8. While the latest lens should give superior results, this old Elmar acquits itself admirably, IMO. I use a 1.4x eyepiece magnifier when I remember!

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Thanks for everyone's help.

 

David, human portraits is what I was considering using it for. My set up for the last fifteen years has been a Nikon SLR with a 180 lens. But I've been falling in love with the M8 form factor with the Leica glass, so I want to start using the M8 for human portraits. The 135 would match the 180 with the 1.3 multiplier on the M8, though I am also considering a 90mm Summicron or possibly Summarit.

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The 135 is not suitable for portraiture in my opinion. Your framing will done with the focusing patch which isn't the best way to capture the facial expression that you may want. A 90mm on the M8 is what I use for head and shoulders portraits.

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Tim, given your wider options, I would suggest you are more likely to be using a 90mm lens for portraits than a 135mm. Good though the latter can be, a 90mm is easier to handle and frame with an M8. Compositions in viewfinder will be easier and more accurate.

 

The Summicron gives you slightly more speed (f/2.0 cf f/2.5) with the slight advantage in maximum aperture. But it is bigger and heavier than the Summarit. I have the 75mm Summarit which is widely used and is very popular on this forum. The 90mm is equally good and is excellent value for money. That would be a good choice and is generally available new and occasionally used on the Forum Sales.

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I have the 135mm Elmarit. It has goggles which can not be detached. I can't quite remember what framelines it brings up....

As David said, the goggles bring up 90 frame, has 1.5x magnification:

90 x 1.5 = 135

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If the question is, "How well does a 135mm lens work on an M8?", what I find the simplest and most complete answer to the question is at http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/customer-forum/181452-rangefinder-accuracy.html, where at post #2 there's a reproduction of a chart from LFI (also available as higher-res pdf from the link in post #1).

 

From that chart you can see that the 0.68x magnification of the M8 and M9 is not enough to focus accurately without stopping down to f/4.5.

 

On the other hand, the 135/2.8 is comfortably covered because its effective magnification is 1.02, which is high enough to cover f/2.8 on a 135mm lens.

 

Remember, these are theoretical calculations, and many people have reported good results at focal length/aperture combinations that are in the "not good enough" area.

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That, Howard, is because calculations like that do not take the most important parameters into consideration, i.e. variations in quality of eyesight ( if you take an average value half of us will do better) and training and skill.

 

But more importantly 4.0 and 3.4 are close enough to 4.5 to be irrelevant in the calculation of the optimal accuracy range.

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The 135 is not suitable for portraiture in my opinion. Your framing will done with the focusing patch which isn't the best way to capture the facial expression that you may want. A 90mm on the M8 is what I use for head and shoulders portraits.

 

No it won't be used with the focussing patch. That is far too small. Overrotate the lens and stay a bit within the 90 mm framelines and you will be OK.

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No it won't be used with the focussing patch. That is far too small. Overrotate the lens and stay a bit within the 90 mm framelines and you will be OK.

I find that I can imagine a frame mid-way between the 90mm and the outside of the focusing patch. With practice that method works well and is pretty accurate.

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