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Brighter Visoflex focusing screen?


Washington

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Years ago I tried one of Bill Maxwell's screens, but it too had a bright spot, with severe vignetting at the perimeter...totally useless for me. I recently installed an old Nikon screen with a split image RF patch and microprism surround, the test shots for alignment haven't yet been developed, but with minimal shimming, it seemed to be spot on in focus with a ground glass in the film plane.

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I would like to know what screens you have found that fit and work well?

Thank you kindly. Cheers.

 

 

Hi Washington,

 

Here is an image that I took with the M9 + Viso III + Telyt 400/5.6 after John Van Stelten of Focal Point Inc. in Superior, Co - just down the road from you - cleaned and adjusted the Visoflex. I find the view through the Viso Viewfinder now very bright and clear. As my eyes are not the best, it's always a hit and miss, but I get more keepers than I get with automatic focus on my D3. I prefer "better lucky than smart" any day.

 

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You probably notice the moire pattern in some of the fine feathers of this Curve-Billed Thrasher. I consider that confirmation that focus was dead on. Please correct me if I am wrong.

 

You have been very successful working on your Visos and trying out stuff. Some time ago I bought a few RICOH KR-5 KR-10 FRESNEL LENS 3119-6227 screens for use in my Visos. But I changed my mind. If you want to try out this screen in your Viso, please send me a PM with your contact info, and I will mail one of the screens to you to keep. I am still curious to find out whether that screen would be an improvement over the original tried and proven Leitz real glass screen.

 

Best, K-H.

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K-H,

Thank you for your kind offer which I will take you up on! As soon as a wake up enough

I will drop you a line.

Truth be told, when all cleaned up, I have no trouble at all with the very nice real glass

screen. So, no doubt, I am looking for trouble where there isn’t anyway ….. but I was just curious. I somehow had the impression that a screen with a split-image center didn’t

work with long lenses as on side of the split blacks out. Do I remember correctly?

Again, they take no time at all to change and I was just wondering. Thanks for all the info.

Hey, who is that Leica guy near me???? Cheers.

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It already has the most perfect screen for the range of lenses used on the viso.

 

The replacement or alternative screens for slr cameras that are supposed to be used for tele lenses are of similar design, none as good, but similar.

 

To get better, they are made for very specific focal lengths and apertures. Then you are forced into changing them to suit the occasion/lens at hand.

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Yes, I have the screen you were kind enough to send me. Just a tiny amount of sanding

on length sides and it fit the frame just fine. It needed a .031’’ frame shim to fit tightly

as it was this much thinner than the original glass. The very thin smear of silicone sealer

holding this very delicate shim in place is setting up now and I will be reassembling it

a bit later today. I will let you know for sure.

By the way…. what camera did this come from again?????

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Thanks K-H,

I ask because if this proves interesting… I would try to find a matt screen of

the same size. As I told you, I seem to remember problems with split prism screens

on long lenses…. one side of the central split blacking out. But, that may turn out not

to be the case….. we shall see soon!

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K-H: Quickie Tests.

I used the 65mm Elmar for these. Using the split image center. It is another grey dark

day…. I would like more light & contrast. These are 100% enlarged sections with no

processing or adjustment at all. Interesting!

I tried a 135 but began to have trouble with blacked out central split-prism. However, as this

is a f-2.8 lens, wide open (where you focus anyway) cleared the black central split

spot! I do have some thoughts on this subject - but I will wait until I take more photos.

Cheers!!!!

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Yeah, that’s interesting. Pardon my vanity, but the the only shim material I found to be

used at the top of the screen/frame interface was a rubber sheet bought for making new

strips to replace degrading textured rubber bands on a few lenses. But, it worked just

fine as a shim. However, the inside edge is a little jagged and slightly protrudes into

the viewing area. At this point I was not being fussy as I just wanted to see if it worked.

So, I simply have to trim it clean before I display it as you suggest… again, neatness

& vanity.

I still think a precision matt screen is the best bet for over-all use. And damned if

I didn’t have one right here. I never thought to check these for size and adaptability…

it’s for my Cannon Mk III Ds. This is a thicker screen than the one you sent me and will

require a .019 thickness shim. I’ll find something as I think this screen would be ducky.

All in all, this is proving quite interesting!!!

Give me a little bit and I will provide the photos as you suggest.

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K-H,

Not exactly what you asked for but I just wanted to see how it looked this way.

I see a couple of hairs on the screen bottom to blow/vacuum out.

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