!Nomad64 Posted May 5, 2011 Share #61 Posted May 5, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) OK, I just think we can replace agitate and/or invert by rotating and pulling up 'n down the spiral. Not exactly so IMHO. I'd limit to replace agitate with either rotating and pulling up 'n down the spiral, but would actually invert. Cheers, Bruno Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted May 5, 2011 Posted May 5, 2011 Hi !Nomad64, Take a look here Which kind of film I should use?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Xmas Posted May 5, 2011 Share #62 Posted May 5, 2011 Hi Vo If your tap water is really hard and you kettle needs descaling then you may need to use deionised water for a final rinse, with a drop of detergent in it. You can reuse this water so it is not a great expense. If when you hang up the film to dry you run the film between thumb and 1st finger to wipe water off it that may also help. I moved house to a soft water area, and use a proper film squeegee, though people will say this is exposed to scratches, Ilford recommend... Noel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuanvo1982 Posted May 5, 2011 Author Share #63 Posted May 5, 2011 Anyway, I will take some wetting agent. I am quite happy with my result now. Now I need to wait until weekend to go to the town and scanning my film at Boots or Jessops. Let see the result Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted May 5, 2011 Share #64 Posted May 5, 2011 If you are going to ask Jessops etc to scan your film, make sure you don't cut the film first and make sure they turn off the digital dust remover function. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuanvo1982 Posted May 5, 2011 Author Share #65 Posted May 5, 2011 If you are going to ask Jessops etc to scan your film, make sure you don't cut the film first and make sure they turn off the digital dust remover function. I have just chopped it off..... ( Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/150766-which-kind-of-film-i-should-use/?do=findComment&comment=1664745'>More sharing options...
andybarton Posted May 5, 2011 Share #66 Posted May 5, 2011 At least they're in sixes Jessops etc scan as soon as the film is processed and before it's cut. It's worth asking though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted May 5, 2011 Share #67 Posted May 5, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hi Andy Can trhe classifieds do I wanna buy a cheap scanner, or enlarger even? Noel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuanvo1982 Posted May 5, 2011 Author Share #68 Posted May 5, 2011 Hi Andy Can trhe classifieds do I wanna buy a cheap scanner, or enlarger even? Noel I am looking for a cheap one now any suggest for £100. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted May 5, 2011 Share #69 Posted May 5, 2011 Hi Vo Dont have a spare enlarger or scanner myself but other people may have one, I was thinking of free myself... come and pick up, all mine are in pieces being mended. Noel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted May 6, 2011 Share #70 Posted May 6, 2011 Hi Andy Can trhe classifieds do I wanna buy a cheap scanner, or enlarger even? Noel Of course. Just use WTB at the beginning of the advert title. New Plustek scanners are on the shelf in Jessops, btw. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuanvo1982 Posted May 6, 2011 Author Share #71 Posted May 6, 2011 Of course. Just use WTB at the beginning of the advert title. New Plustek scanners are on the shelf in Jessops, btw. Any particular type please? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted May 6, 2011 Share #72 Posted May 6, 2011 There is a long thread here about people's experiences with Plusteks. http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/film-forum/153571-plustek-7600i-se-very-good-money.html I don't use one myself, as I have a Nikon Coolscan, but the results are very good, especially when considering the price. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
earleygallery Posted May 6, 2011 Share #73 Posted May 6, 2011 1. Can I use tap water to mix film developer? (Tap water may contains some types of chemicals like: Clo, Fluoride) Yes you can, I use tap water 2. Can I use the woody stick to stir the powder? Woody stick? You can use anything to mix the chemicals 3. Should I put 20C water to warm the tank up before I put developer into tank? Not necessary, although some people do this (perhaps if you are using a steel tank and the ambient temperature is much lower than 20C) 4. After fixer, should I put some soap and use tap water to clean film in the tank? NO!!! 5. Do we hang the wet film immediately or need something to dry it before hanging out? Preference. I use a piece of kitchen paper to quickly wipe excess water off then hang to dry. You can use rubber squeegee's but must make sure they are totally clean to avoid scratching your film. 6. Do we need agitation in Bath Stop and Fixer? Yes - just follow the instructions There's a really good guide on the Ilford website http://www.ilfordphoto.com/applications/page.asp?n=31 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuanvo1982 Posted May 6, 2011 Author Share #74 Posted May 6, 2011 I did try scan with my scanner in my company (Epson perfect... 1660 ). The result is horrible. Do you think it is because of scanner or something else? I used Epson software to scan. The 1st one is original one. The 2nd one is photoshop one. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/150766-which-kind-of-film-i-should-use/?do=findComment&comment=1665534'>More sharing options...
andybarton Posted May 6, 2011 Share #75 Posted May 6, 2011 Nothing wrong with those at all. especially for a first film. Nice one! You always need to do some curves etc adjustment, just as you would with any digital file, and in an enlarger. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuanvo1982 Posted May 6, 2011 Author Share #76 Posted May 6, 2011 Nothing wrong with those at all. especially for a first film. Nice one! You always need to do some curves etc adjustment, just as you would with any digital file, and in an enlarger. Thank Andy! I forgot to take UV/IR filter out. I don't think it make a big change in this photo. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted May 6, 2011 Share #77 Posted May 6, 2011 You can process C-41 B&W films in regular B&W developers as well. I love XP2 in Diafine and Rodinal. Now that is quite interesting. Got time and temperature recommendations? ISO? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
!Nomad64 Posted May 6, 2011 Share #78 Posted May 6, 2011 Why do you call that horrible, Vo? From what I can see from the first version the grays are all there, meaning that you exposed properly. Both images are a bit jammed sharpness wise, but that's the fault of the scanner, most likely a flatbed, therefore not the best choice as to film scanning. Also resizing doesn't help. The second version is better. Maybe and I stress maybe it could be better with a little, very little contrast less. Probably has more to do with my monitor rather than the image itself. But apart from that I second Andy's opinion: nothing wrong and remarkable for being your first film. From now on you'll see the process will become easier and easier as you'll increase your dexterity and it'll become more challenging when you'll want to extend your limits and squeeze something more from your films. At that stage a whole world of possibilities will disclose before you. Cheers, Bruno Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuanvo1982 Posted May 6, 2011 Author Share #79 Posted May 6, 2011 Why do you call that horrible, Vo? From what I can see from the first version the grays are all there, meaning that you exposed properly. Both images are a bit jammed sharpness wise, but that's the fault of the scanner, most likely a flatbed, therefore not the best choice as to film scanning. Also resizing doesn't help. The second version is better. Maybe and I stress maybe it could be better with a little, very little contrast less. Probably has more to do with my monitor rather than the image itself. But apart from that I second Andy's opinion: nothing wrong and remarkable for being your first film. From now on you'll see the process will become easier and easier as you'll increase your dexterity and it'll become more challenging when you'll want to extend your limits and squeeze something more from your films. At that stage a whole world of possibilities will disclose before you. Cheers, Bruno Hi Bruno. Yes, it is a flatbed scanner. it is very very old and cheap one Epson 1660 .... I called "horrible" because I expected the contrast and sharpness look like when you use digital. Maybe I was wrong. For contrast and sharpness, I think it depends on scanner. Is that correct? If I print that on paper from film, I think the result will be better. Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted May 6, 2011 Share #80 Posted May 6, 2011 Hi Vo Life is not that simple mono film is normally longer scale (range) then a scean so you capture data but the print is much shorter scale, so the negative needs to be processed for a nice print. If you are using slow film for high quality e.g. PanF it is short scale (contrasty) and will have trouble with shadows and highlights at the same time. The straight prints from a scan of a film (or wet prints) are for proof, If you want a print for exibition wall you need to manipulate in photoshop (or by burning and dodging and variable contrast paper for wet printing). Fine art printing is a subject in itself. But tick VG for the darkroom processing, more then one has struggled with ID-11. Noel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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