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Planned digital M series


PRiemerman

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Yes, with the adapters, just as with any M film camera. You might not get the same results as with a new coded lens, but try it out. You may well be satisfied with the results. That's my plan.

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Paul: The only Leica screw-mount lens that will likely not work with the M digital would be the Super-Angulon 21 f/4. Because it sticks back into the camera so far that it would likely foul on the shutter mechanism (it's a vertical blade shutter rather than the rubber/silk curtains of the other Ms).

 

Not sure about a Summaron 28 - I've never seen one and don't know how far back into the camera it penetrates when mounted. Same for the Summaron 35. And also Canon or Nikon or other 3rd-party screw-mount wide-angles 19-21-25-28-35mm, any of which MIGHT have too little space behind the rear element when mounted.

 

There will be (it appears) no viewfinder frames for 135 lenses. So you'd have to find an external viewfinder for the framing of a "180mm" (the digital M crops 1.33x smaller than a film Leica) to use a Hektor or Elmar. Actually, the old 5-lens funnel-shaped Leica zoom finders (VIUOO??) have a setting 'beyond' 135 that should be a good approximation of the cropped view with a 135. At least mine worked OK shooting with an Epson and 135.

 

Or you can just train your eye to 'see' the area of a 135 shot relative to the size of the RF patch, which moves to correctly for parallax automatically.

 

You will need to be careful with collapsible 50s or 90s - collapsed, they may crunch the shutter. Extended they should work as well as they do on the M4-P (but cropped, as mentioned). Stick a band of heavy tape, like Dymo plastic labelling tape, around the lens barrel at the base to prevent inadvertently collapsing the lens.

 

Regular 50s, 73s, 85s and 90s should have no issues at all. Nor should the 'modern' Cosina screw-mount lenses, which were designed to clear a metal-blade shutter.

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...You will need to be careful with collapsible 50s or 90s - collapsed, they may crunch the shutter... Stick a band of heavy tape, like Dymo plastic labelling tape, around the lens barrel at the base to prevent inadvertently collapsing the lens...

Yes or tie a large shoelace around it.

 

LeicaM_5028_lacet_AV.jpg

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Yes or tie a large shoelace around it.

 

LeicaM_5028_lacet_AV.jpg

Hi LCT,

How far does the collapsed lens go beyond the mount? The M6 has about 15.5mm clearance between the rear of the lens mount and the frame around the shutter. The tricks that you and Andy are talking about were important with the M5 and its semiphore light meter, that is well forward of the shutter unit. I am curious, because that lens has been on my list for a while.

Bob

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...How far does the collapsed lens go beyond the mount?...

Hi Bob,

My (non-LTM) Elmars 50/2.8 of 1962, 1994 & 2004 should collapse harmlessly in theory but they protrude by about 20mm into the body when the maximum allowed by the R-D1 User's Guide (see below) is 20.5mm only.

 

Excerp of the R-D1 User's Guide, page 17:

 

Some M/L mount lenses cannot be used because of the structure of the camera. For example, lenses with external dimensions exceeding 20.5 mm cannot be used with this camera.

Lenses that cannot be used include:

- Hologon 15mm f/8

- Super Angulon 21mm f/3.4

- Super Angulon 21mm f/4

- Elmarit 28mm f/2.8 (earliest model)

- Dual Range Summicron 50mm.

When you mount a collapsible lens, do not collapse the lens after mounting it. Collapsing the lens into the camera by force or mounting the lens while it is collapsed may damage the camera or the lens.

Lenses than can be used but must not be collapsed include:

- Hektor 50mm f/2.5

- Elmar 50mm f/3.5

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Thanks LCT, That does indicate a possible problem. I like the idea of collapsible lenses for compactness and for me, it harks back to my original RF, a ContaxII, with a collapsible 50mm/2.8, but I'd want to be sure first.

Bob

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