Nightpuma Posted March 19, 2011 Author Share #21 Posted March 19, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hi all, Thank's a lot for all the useful info you have given me. What I have learnt is that any lightmeter will work fine, and it will be a matter of taste and price. I like the idea of learning the skill of determine the exposure settings without a lightmeter. This will get me in closer contact with the light, the subject and the environment around me. But I will need a light meter to help me practice. Lucky for me, I have a long time Leica collector close to me who is selling out his collection because he is getting old. I will ask him to loan me a MR or MR4 so I can try it out with a couple of films. If I like it, I will buy it. If not, I will go for one of the small modern handheld. Do any of you know if the CRIS MR9 battery adaptor works without hazzle for the Leicameter? Best Theo Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted March 19, 2011 Posted March 19, 2011 Hi Nightpuma, Take a look here Lightmeter for M3. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
gberger Posted March 20, 2011 Share #22 Posted March 20, 2011 Starting in 1940 with my Dad's GE, I've probably used most of the light meters mentioned above and a few more. Each has its strong and weak points and you'll have to get used to the quirks of any meter you select. I finally ended up with the Sekonic L-308S,and I've never looked back or regretted the choice. It uses an AA battery, is useful for both incident and reflective metering (a very quick flip with the thumb!), fits in your shirt pocket and has excellent accuracy and repeatability. Rugged and reliable. Simple to use. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
nhsn Posted March 21, 2011 Share #23 Posted March 21, 2011 I know many will disagree, but a modern meter is so much easier to use, is much more responsive and use easily available batteries. The M3 is a marvellous camera with an unbeatable tactile feel and I don't see the charm in corrupting the experience by starting to learn S16 and potentially ruining many great shots in the beginning. The VC meter is nice and small but not as practical as it may look. I have used many classic and modern meters, and of the currently available modern meters, I recommend one of the two below for a compact and convenient instrument. IMO Gossen Sixtomat digital has a slight edge over the Sekonic 308B, 308B II and 308S, but it is usually also a little more expensive and harder to find used. Gossen Sixtomat Digital and Sekonic 308B side by side by mandoflex, on Flickr Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
nhsn Posted March 21, 2011 Share #24 Posted March 21, 2011 Regarding the two meters above. If you follow the link to my Flickr page you'll find a short writeup on the differences. Gossen Sixtomat Digital and Sekonic 308B side by side | Flickr - Photo Sharing! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyoung Posted March 21, 2011 Share #25 Posted March 21, 2011 There is no doubt that a separate meter is better in extreme situations, but it is so much slower than one on the camera, and that speed of reaction is so much part of leica photography (and 35mm in general) IMHO. The Voigtlander is slower than and MR, because its not coupled to the shutter speeds, but its light, small and sensitive, and makes an M3, or any other meterless rangefinder) almost as quick to use as an M6 etc. Gerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted March 21, 2011 Share #26 Posted March 21, 2011 Hi all, Thank's a lot for all the useful info you have given me. What I have learnt is that any lightmeter will work fine, and it will be a matter of taste and price. I like the idea of learning the skill of determine the exposure settings without a lightmeter. This will get me in closer contact with the light, the subject and the environment around me. But I will need a light meter to help me practice. Lucky for me, I have a long time Leica collector close to me who is selling out his collection because he is getting old. I will ask him to loan me a MR or MR4 so I can try it out with a couple of films. If I like it, I will buy it. If not, I will go for one of the small modern handheld. Do any of you know if the CRIS MR9 battery adaptor works without hazzle for the Leicameter? Best Theo Donno it should but this one should also do, get or make two as they are drain magnets... Noel http://www.butkus.org/chinon/batt-adapt-us.pdf Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
!Nomad64 Posted March 21, 2011 Share #27 Posted March 21, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) But sunny 16 only really works outside, a meter is a help otherwise Gerry I partly subscribe your point of view. Especially when learning it's of the utmost importance to check the accuracy of one's own exposure estimation. But I beg to differ from the first part of your sentence. Cheers, Bruno Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/146468-lightmeter-for-m3/?do=findComment&comment=1621155'>More sharing options...
Carl E Posted March 22, 2011 Share #28 Posted March 22, 2011 The MR-4 I have works fine. I like the fact that it is coupled. I meter and set speed and aperture before even bringing the camera to the eye. Once it is set, it is just focus and shoot. I find that in practice, this combination works a lot faster than my M6, especially since you only need to meter again when the light changes. The M6 kind of encourages constant fiddling with exposure settings as you chase lighting the arrows. I would even say that an M3 + MR-4 works as fast as an M7 As far as accuracy, I only shoot B&W with the M3, so the film latitude helps there quite a bit. If I were shooting slides, I would bring along my Gossen Luna Pro. Actually, I would bring a different camera. I have an aversion to hand-held meters. If I were to carry one, why not a tripod then. A slippery slope totally negating the Leica experience. There are a few shops that will repair, adjust and calibrate the MR meters. There is one a few blocks from where I work in Hollywood. Quality Light Metric Co. Highly recommended. My experience is also that an M3 or M4 with an MR-4 allows you to work faster than if you have to adjust exposure while framing and focusing, as you would with an M6. I sent my Leicameter MR-4 to George Milton (Quality Light Metric) and I cannot praise him enough. He replaced faulty parts, adjusted to factory specs and calibrated the meter to accept the new alkaline batteries, all within 3 working days after he received the meter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pintpot Posted March 22, 2011 Share #29 Posted March 22, 2011 I use a Sekonic twinmate L 208 on my M2 it's small, and fits on the accessory shoe and seems quite accurate with B/W, I've yet to try it with some colour slide film Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightpuma Posted March 22, 2011 Author Share #30 Posted March 22, 2011 Hello, You guys are just great Thank's again for the very useful info. I have spoken to my Leica dealer today, and he told me he has several MR's in his collection that I may try out to find out how it works. Even better, he also has a lot of batteries for them. I will probably get one this saturday. If I don't find it useful, right now I think the Sekonic L-308 will be a good choice. It is also easy to find S/H. In the meantime, I enjoy massaging the M3 Best Theo Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfbldwn Posted March 22, 2011 Share #31 Posted March 22, 2011 Hello,If I don't find it useful, right now I think the Sekonic L-308 will be a good choice. It is also easy to find S/H. Theo Good luck, a fine choice. I went with Gossen Digisix because, while any L-308 meter has been more accurate for me, I much prefer handheld metering with the meter held horizontally, not vertically. Surprisingly, I especially prefer this when taking incident light readings. The 308 meters must be held vertically, with the readout display facing away from any user's face. I found it exasperating to take the reading, then rotate the fool thing 180 degrees to see it. Also, I have trouble aiming well when holding a meter upright, as the 308 meters require. The advantage of handheld metering prior to shooting is it helps me emulate the original users of your M3. Those guys knew what exposure to set before going in and pressing the shutter button. I do a lot of metering around different parts of an area before taking any pictures. The Digisix lets you see the readout in EV units, so it's an easy addition/subtraction, to calculate the aperture/shutter speed combination in your head. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerzilla Posted March 22, 2011 Share #32 Posted March 22, 2011 I use a Sekonic L-308BII. It does not make mistakes. The Leicameters can scratch the top plate and the selenium ones (MC) rarely work any more. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveYork Posted March 29, 2011 Share #33 Posted March 29, 2011 I just a Gossen Digisix and it's either broken or I can't figure out how to change the iso speed. Another plus for the Voigtlander is that it's pretty simple to understand. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill Posted March 29, 2011 Share #34 Posted March 29, 2011 Press and hold the button, Steve. Regards, Bill Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morry Katz Posted March 29, 2011 Share #35 Posted March 29, 2011 Keep it simple. Get an incident meter, take a reading in the sun and in the shade. Remember them and put the meter away. Now go shoot. Lots. You're going to have lots of fun. Cheers Morry Katz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
giordano Posted March 29, 2011 Share #36 Posted March 29, 2011 I just a Gossen Digisix and it's either broken or I can't figure out how to change the iso speed. Another plus for the Voigtlander is that it's pretty simple to understand. Steve, there's a downloadable PDFmanual somewhere on the Gossen website. If you can't find it, PM me and I'll email you a copy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveYork Posted March 30, 2011 Share #37 Posted March 30, 2011 I have the manual -- the meter is brand new -- it just doesn't seem to work. But thanks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
roguewave Posted March 31, 2011 Share #38 Posted March 31, 2011 I have the manual -- the meter is brand new -- it just doesn't seem to work. But thanks. Make sure the battery is placed correctly. That is the only thing people seem to under appreciate. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasticman Posted April 1, 2011 Share #39 Posted April 1, 2011 Just as an aside in this debate: I was out with my CL last week and the battery had died (it's inaccessible while film is in the camera, which is something of a design fault). In extremely bright sunlight and harsh shadow I decided to carry on shooting (Portra400) by guessing the exposure. After I'd taken about ten or twelve shots, I realized that my Sekonic meter was in my bag - and I was extremely annoyed with myself to find that my guesses had been WAY off - between 2 to 4 stops. When I got the film back... the exposures were pretty much indistinguishable from my carefully metered shots - the film has that much tolerance! None of my highlights were blown out, and there was good detail in the shadows. Film let's you do this in a way that digital never does. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeTexas Posted June 2, 2011 Share #40 Posted June 2, 2011 For those with an iPhone, there are a plethora of light meter apps available. I use a free one, creatively named "Light Meter," that seems to work well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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