colonel Posted March 2, 2011 Share #1 Posted March 2, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) ok, I used to shoot film, but longer ago then I care to mention (admit age, etc. ) but today, what is everyone using for: 1. Scanning. What are the best negative scanners keeping value in mind ? 2. Are the services to put film directly on to CD any good (or still too expensive - i.e. better to scan yourself) 3. If I get an M4, or lower, I understand there is no metering. What are folks techniques for metering ? What are recommendations for good (but value) light meters ?. Is it worth it, in terms of is it just better get a M5TTL, M6TTL or higher ? many thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted March 2, 2011 Posted March 2, 2011 Hi colonel, Take a look here Newbie film questions & Metering. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
andybarton Posted March 2, 2011 Share #2 Posted March 2, 2011 There are loads of threads on here about meters and scanners etc. The search button is your friend. I'm not sure what you mean by "scan the film or the negative"? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
colonel Posted March 2, 2011 Author Share #3 Posted March 2, 2011 you are right, just seen one about the plustek Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
too old to care Posted March 2, 2011 Share #4 Posted March 2, 2011 ok, I used to shoot film, but longer ago then I care to mention (admit age, etc. ) but today, what is everyone using for: 1. Scanning. Is it best to scan the film or the negative ? and what are the best negative scanners keeping value in mind ? 2. Are the services to put film directly on to CD any good (or still too expensive - i.e. better to scan yourself) 3. If I get an M4, or lower, I understand there is no metering. What are folks techniques for metering ? What are recommendations for good (but value) light meters ?. Is it worth it, in terms of is it just better get a M5TTL, M6TTL or higher ? many thanks These are just my opinions. 1. I scan because I am a little lazy and have not used my dark room stuff in 20 years. I can also do more in Photoshop than I can with trays and tongs. However, I think most people will tell you that wet printing will give you the best results. 2. Most professional labs will do this for you. My last film wedding I had printed by a local lab and a CD made by them. However, the CD was only equal to about what a 6 meg camera could do and came back Jpeg only. This is my only experience with using a lab to develop and scan negatives. I do it myself. 3. Everyone here loves older cameras, so you will get a lot of opinions. I use a M6 but also recently picked up a Gossen Luna Pro on fleabay for a song to use with my 2 1/4 camera. Used light meters are cheap, even new ones are reasonable. Hope this helps a little. Wayne Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted March 2, 2011 Share #5 Posted March 2, 2011 You have three options C41 color C41 mono retained silver 1. Scanning. Is it best to scan the film or the negative ? and what are the best negative scanners keeping value in mind ? 2nd hand cheap 2. Are the services to put film directly on to CD any good (or still too expensive - i.e. better to scan yourself) Local mini lab is quick (for C41), cheap and convenient, but it may dissappear tomorrow pro lab expensive home processing cheap 3. If I get an M4, or lower, I understand there is no metering. What are folks techniques for metering ? What are recommendations for good (but value) light meters ?. Is it worth it, in terms of is it just better get a M5TTL, M6TTL or higher ? Weston Meter - they come with useful calculator, real cheap, if they break buy another Noel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
smb Posted March 2, 2011 Share #6 Posted March 2, 2011 An M4 is around $1000 while an M6 Classic w/meter is $1200. If you buy a meter it will cost around $200. Personally, I would go with the M6. If you don't like the meter don't put the battery in. The other issues are framelines (minor issue but it depends on which lenses you will purchase) and the quality of construction (a non-issue IMHO). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted March 2, 2011 Share #7 Posted March 2, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hi The M6 meter needs greater skill, it is also compelling and apparently a 200 $ increment, over a M4. The M6 rfdr does not work in all circumstances, the gears are less smooth, and the zinc parts can corrode badly. An M2 is typically 400 GBP in uk shops. The film loading mechanism is slower but reliable. A Weston 19 to 50 GBP in UK shops, it is easier to use. Noel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tgray Posted March 2, 2011 Share #8 Posted March 2, 2011 1. Scanner - The Plusteks have been getting alright reviews. The Epson V700/V750 is another option. In years past, for the same price, I would have recommended the Nikon Coolscan V. If you can find one for $500-600, get it. 2. Labs - If you use NCPS or Precision Camera (through the rangefinder forum deal), you can get good development and good scans for $10-12/roll. NCPS scans are pretty nice, and are 2000x3000 for that price. The Precision Camera deal is newer and you get very nice 4000x6000 scans for the price. The turnaround time for them is a couple days longer. The last batch of film I got back from them is very good. I'll only need to rescan one or two images (out of 10 rolls) where they clipped some highlights that I wanted to keep. Other than that, it's a great deal. The scans are large - about 20 meg files compressed. Both labs are mail order unless you happen to live where they are. 3. I started out with an M6 because I wanted a built in meter and the modern loading mechanism. I've been happy with it. When I bought it a couple years ago, it was only about $300 more than an M4 in working condition. If you do go with a meterless camera, the Sekonic 308 meter is a pretty nice incident meter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
colonel Posted March 2, 2011 Author Share #9 Posted March 2, 2011 1. Scanner - The Plusteks have been getting alright reviews. The Epson V700/V750 is another option. In years past, for the same price, I would have recommended the Nikon Coolscan V. If you can find one for $500-600, get it. 2. Labs - If you use NCPS or Precision Camera (through the rangefinder forum deal), you can get good development and good scans for $10-12/roll. NCPS scans are pretty nice, and are 2000x3000 for that price. The Precision Camera deal is newer and you get very nice 4000x6000 scans for the price. The turnaround time for them is a couple days longer. The last batch of film I got back from them is very good. I'll only need to rescan one or two images (out of 10 rolls) where they clipped some highlights that I wanted to keep. Other than that, it's a great deal. The scans are large - about 20 meg files compressed. Both labs are mail order unless you happen to live where they are. 3. I started out with an M6 because I wanted a built in meter and the modern loading mechanism. I've been happy with it. When I bought it a couple years ago, it was only about $300 more than an M4 in working condition. If you do go with a meterless camera, the Sekonic 308 meter is a pretty nice incident meter. thanks good stuff there Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Hiles Posted March 2, 2011 Share #10 Posted March 2, 2011 1. Scanning. What are the best negative scanners keeping value in mind ?2. Are the services to put film directly on to CD any good (or still too expensive - i.e. better to scan yourself) 3. If I get an M4, or lower, I understand there is no metering. What are folks techniques for metering ? What are recommendations for good (but value) light meters ?. Is it worth it, in terms of is it just better get a M5TTL, M6TTL or higher ? 1. The Epsons have a good reputation here. I use a Canon 8800F that gets no air time here, but I am very very satisfied. I scan to catalog (I use Picassa as a catalog and search system), and to post to the web. I still print in the darkroom. 99% B&W. 2. Better to do it yourself, IMO. 3. I use an old Soligor 1 degree spot meter with an M2 and M3. I meter using Zone system ideas of consiously placing highlights or shadows rather than taking an overall average reading, and a spot meter is almost essential to measure small parts of the scene. This works really well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikael Siirilä Posted March 2, 2011 Share #11 Posted March 2, 2011 I bought a second hand Nikon Coolscan 4000ED pretty cheap. Works well and gives nearly true 4000dpi which is more than newer scanners actually deliver (despite specs). Many pro's seem to use the 4000/5000/9000ED scanners, but if you don't mind slower speed the 4000ED is a bargain. I develop films myself. There is a great application for the iPhone that makes it stressfree. I read a photo magazine and iPhone bleeps when I need to agitate and gives a sound when I need to fix, rinse etc. Here in Helsinki it costs 8,50€ to have a black and white film developed versus approximately 50 cents to do it by yourself. And doing it at home brings all the fun of chemicals and trying out various tricks. A small incident light meter is a very easy tool. I have a M6 but rarely use the metering. I got a Gossen Variosix second hand. When I go out to shoot I take a general reading and then add/remove a stop or two when needed. After using the M8 and constantly worrying about burned highlights its just so relaxed to shoot without a preview screen and with the flexibility of film. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tgray Posted March 2, 2011 Share #12 Posted March 2, 2011 Yeah, I should have said, all my B&W film is developed and scanned/wet printed at home. It's only the color stuff I send out. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
myshkine Posted March 5, 2011 Share #13 Posted March 5, 2011 I am one of the Plustek users of the "plustek" thread. It's very good and easy to use. IMHO Silverfast software is excellent. After using for some time my M6TTL's meter, I now use a Sekonic Twinmate L-208: it is very small, compact and reliable. In my city, labs are not always as reliable. The scanning service can be expensive. So better buy a scan. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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