mobeyone Posted February 20, 2011 Share #1 Posted February 20, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) .... but I am not having any joy with it. Colours look bland, the detail is not there even when dropped to F4.. Yes I like to shoot wide open but the detail and colour I got from the 50 was superb and only upgraded to the 35 to get closer to the 50MM frame. The more I look at the files, the closer the 35MM looks and feels like the digilux 2? would anyone agree with this? under light, the files give a very similar tone and feel about them. The ASPH in my eyes certainly does not have that warm look that 50MM cron has... which I am beginning to miss... L1003526 | Flickr - Photo Sharing! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted February 20, 2011 Posted February 20, 2011 Hi mobeyone, Take a look here Swapped from 50MM cron to 35MM Cron (asph). I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
ezc203 Posted February 20, 2011 Share #2 Posted February 20, 2011 From the photo you posted, what I see are the following: Blur - due to camera shake Bad Color - due to a white balance problem. Most likely caused by the interior light, mixed with the natural light from outside the window. The 35mm Cron ASPH is one of the BEST lessons in the M line, it should definite perform better than the 50 Cron. Perhaps you can post a few more pictures? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobeyone Posted February 20, 2011 Author Share #3 Posted February 20, 2011 Adding some more now. Yes, still working on my technique with the M but I am noticing it more now. The WB is a nightmare as you can see. L1003377 | Flickr - Photo Sharing! L1003562 | Flickr - Photo Sharing! L1003495 | Flickr - Photo Sharing! Add some more in a moment.. Just thought I should add that my cron is not 6 bit coded... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted February 20, 2011 Share #4 Posted February 20, 2011 The 35 ASPH Summicron is one of the best 35mm lenses ever made. It's sharp and contrasty and is classic "Leica". Your shots don't reflect this. Firstly, you need to get your exposure correct. The shot of the child with the guitar looks under exposed to me. Secondly, you need to get your white balance correct. Use a blank sheet of white paper and manually balance from that. Thirdly, you need to avoid camera shake. Fourthly, try shooting RAW and processing the shots yourself, rather than letting the camera create jpgs. Fifthly, manually code the lens in the first instance. You are using a UV/IR cut filter, aren't you? I posted a shot in Architecture yesterday taken with an identical lens at 1/15 @ f2. It's sharp across the frame ( full frame ) so the M8 is capable of at least as good sharpness as that. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobeyone Posted February 20, 2011 Author Share #5 Posted February 20, 2011 Exactly, these are appalling. How would I manually code the lens? Is this possibly why they look so bad? I will try RAW and yes a uvir filter is in front of the lens. That said and nearly 300 shots later I am struggling with this combo... I bought some pocket sized gray cards to manually expose but these have not really helped... Sheet of paper it is. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
01af Posted February 21, 2011 Share #6 Posted February 21, 2011 ... only upgraded to the 35 to get closer to the 50 mm frame. Huh!? To get what's in the 50 mm frame, you're supposed to use a 50 mm lens. Anyway—never sell a Leica lens for another before you tried the new lens and are absolutely sure it suits you better than the old one. And even then, more often than not you will regret selling anyway, sooner or later. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezc203 Posted February 21, 2011 Share #7 Posted February 21, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) Maybe try some shots outside? All your images are from indoor situations with windows. It is really difficult for the M8 to figure out the AWB is those situations. The UV/IR-cut will definitely help. 01af - I think mobeyone is referring to the cropped M8 sensor. In which case the 35mm Cron becomes a ~47mm which is basically a 50mm. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
01af Posted February 21, 2011 Share #8 Posted February 21, 2011 I think mobeyone is referring to the cropped M8 sensor. In which case the 35 mm Summicron becomes a ~47 mm which is basically a 50 mm. Well—as a matter of fact he clearly and unambiguously referred to the 50 mm frame. Besides that, a 35 mm lens never becomes anything other than a 35 mm lens. And no matter whether you're using it on an M8 or an M9, you shall always use it with the 35 mm frame, not the 50 mm frame. If you want to capture what you see in the 50 mm frame, use a 50 mm lens. As simple as that. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted February 21, 2011 Share #9 Posted February 21, 2011 Exactly, these are appalling. How would I manually code the lens? Is this possibly why they look so bad? I will try RAW and yes a uvir filter is in front of the lens. That said and nearly 300 shots later I am struggling with this combo... I bought some pocket sized gray cards to manually expose but these have not really helped... Sheet of paper it is. Learn to use the histogram, and start the postprocessing learning curve. Get a copy of Lightroom, shoot raw, and get the Lightroom book by Scott Kelby. Calibrate your computer screen. Gray and white cards are fine, but only needed with extremely difficult light conditions. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
01af Posted February 21, 2011 Share #10 Posted February 21, 2011 Learn to use the histogram, and start the postprocessing learning curve. Get a copy of Lightroom, shoot raw, and get the Lightroom book by Scott Kelby. Calibrate your computer screen. Gray and white cards are fine, but only needed with extremely difficult light conditions. That's all good advice ... but why was he happy with a 50 mm lens and isn't with his new 35 mm lens? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted February 21, 2011 Share #11 Posted February 21, 2011 I have no idea, 50 mm photos have not been uploaded. But when I look at the shots on Flickr I see a postprocessing and possibly an exposure problem, not a sharpness problem that would indicate a lens fault. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobeyone Posted February 21, 2011 Author Share #12 Posted February 21, 2011 01af - I think mobeyone is referring to the cropped M8 sensor. In which case the 35mm Cron becomes a ~47mm which is basically a 50mm. Yes. Took some this morning.. still not happy to be honest. The photos have this blue wash over them? L1003748 | Flickr - Photo Sharing! L1003735 | Flickr - Photo Sharing! L1003740 | Flickr - Photo Sharing! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted February 21, 2011 Share #13 Posted February 21, 2011 Are you shooting RAW or just jpg? Which software are you using to get to where you are? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobeyone Posted February 21, 2011 Author Share #14 Posted February 21, 2011 That's all good advice ... but why was he happy with a 50 mm lens and isn't with his new 35 mm lens? Olaf, if you have nothing constructive to say then move on. What I choose to do and how I choose to use my lenses is my decision and mine alone. If I want to sell a 50MM lens and use a 35MM to compensate for the crop factor than that is for me to make and not you. If you dont like it, dont read and go bother someone else. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobeyone Posted February 21, 2011 Author Share #15 Posted February 21, 2011 Are you shooting RAW or just jpg? Which software are you using to get to where you are? JPG, no software just importing direct from the camera file. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobeyone Posted February 21, 2011 Author Share #16 Posted February 21, 2011 I have no idea, 50 mm photos have not been uploaded. But when I look at the shots on Flickr I see a postprocessing and possibly an exposure problem, not a sharpness problem that would indicate a lens fault. The photos previous to this on flickr were taken with the 50MM cron. L1002223 | Flickr - Photo Sharing! L1002440 | Flickr - Photo Sharing! As you can see, these are ok when compared to the 35MM. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted February 21, 2011 Share #17 Posted February 21, 2011 Olaf, if you have nothing constructive to say then move on. What I choose to do and how I choose to use my lenses is my decision and mine alone. If I want to sell a 50MM lens and use a 35MM to compensate for the crop factor than that is for me to make and not you. If you dont like it, dont read and go bother someone else. I don't think it was meant in the manner taken - I think Olaf means - if you were happy with the results of you 50 -I take it you were- what can be the reason it is not the case on the 35? The strange thing is that the root cause is clearly the processing of the images, but that should affect both lenses. Do you use them differently, for instance most 50 shots outdoors and most 35 shots indoors? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erik Gunst Lund Posted February 21, 2011 Share #18 Posted February 21, 2011 Not a lens problem. Shoot raw and buy Capture One for PP'ing Learn more about WB and exposure. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobeyone Posted February 21, 2011 Author Share #19 Posted February 21, 2011 I don't think it was meant in the manner taken - I think Olaf means - if you were happy with the results of you 50 -I take it you were- what can be the reason it is not the case on the 35? The strange thing is that the root cause is clearly the processing of the images, but that should affect both lenses. Do you use them differently, for instance most 50 shots outdoors and most 35 shots indoors? Its more the manner and the tone.. But yes, no change in what I am doing. I have tried adjusting the in camera sharpness settings etc and kept them the same but its no different. The last set of photos were taken using AWB and exposure dropped a little but I still get this blue wash over them. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted February 21, 2011 Share #20 Posted February 21, 2011 You NEED to get away from Jpg and fiddling with the camera settings. Start shooting DNG. What processing software did you get with the camera? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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