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Cannot Get Coded Lenses to Work ??


cidereye

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Received Bo's excellent lens coder template today and coded three lenses but cannot get any of them to be recognised. Did the obvious and applied another layer using a sharpie and on my 28mm Elmarit filled in the screw slot but still no go. Even on a 50mm Nokton which is just one simple marking my M8 does not recognise it???

 

Anybody else ever have such a problem? Do you think there is a chance that the code reading on the lens mount is faulty even? Inspected the surface of it closely under light but cannot see any obvious defects with it.

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I have found the Pentel Sharpie is the best. You need to double check the alignment of the coder with a factory coded lens. Mine is not quite perfect and I compensate by thickening the line from the line drawn with the thin end of the supplied coder pen on one side only with the Sharpie and lengthening the mark slightly. To some extent it is a bit trial and error. Also make sure that the red window on your M8 body is clean. A lint free cloth dampened with IPA works well to do this. Some lenses are easier than others. On the M8, the position of the framelines lever must match that expected for the lens code applied or the code will not pick up.

 

Wilson

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Received Bo's excellent lens coder template today and coded three lenses but cannot get any of them to be recognised. Did the obvious and applied another layer using a sharpie and on my 28mm Elmarit filled in the screw slot but still no go. Even on a 50mm Nokton which is just one simple marking my M8 does not recognise it???

 

Anybody else ever have such a problem? Do you think there is a chance that the code reading on the lens mount is faulty even? Inspected the surface of it closely under light but cannot see any obvious defects with it.

 

There are a few of these coding kits around, it seems. From what I've read, doesn't sound like you'll actually damage the lens by using them, but I'd be nervous about dicking around with an expensive lens without really knowing what I was doing.

 

People who've used coding kits, have you had any issues besides the coding not working? If it's just a matter of trial and error, I'll probably get one myself.

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After a very good pub lunch today (the Half Moon at Plumpton), the letters IPA sent my brain in quite the wrong direction.;)

 

You were about a mile from my house in South Chailey today. I will note the Half Moon now being good. It went downhill for a time.

 

Wilson

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There are a few of these coding kits around, it seems. From what I've read, doesn't sound like you'll actually damage the lens by using them, but I'd be nervous about dicking around with an expensive lens without really knowing what I was doing.

 

People who've used coding kits, have you had any issues besides the coding not working? If it's just a matter of trial and error, I'll probably get one myself.

 

The only issue is that some of the marking can rub off on the red sensor strip and occasionally will need cleaning off, as I mentioned above. IPA (Iso Propyl Alcohol not the beer) removes any marker residue from this area. On some Zeiss ZM lenses, you need to change the bayonet to get the coding to work. For example, the 21mm Biogon needs a 28/90 bayonet in place of the 24/35 it comes with. I keep hoping that Leica will update the M8 firmware to have manual lens entry like the M9 does.

 

Wilson

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Anybody else ever have such a problem? Do you think there is a chance that the code reading on the lens mount is faulty even? Inspected the surface of it closely under light but cannot see any obvious defects with it.

 

I have the same problem with the same coder, I will give it another go with a Pentel Sharpie.

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  • 1 year later...

I have been having the same problem with my 50 and 28. Neither one are being recognized and will look into getting the Pentel. However, this leads me to another question:

 

Do I really need to "code" my lenses at all?

 

Seriously, does it make that much of a difference? Thanks and much appreciated!

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Are you using an M8 or M9? If you are using an M8 with UV/IR filters, it will make a difference, particularly with the 28. The coding instructs the M8 to correct the coloured vignetting that you would get otherwise. The wider the lens, the more correction that is required, caused by the increasingly oblique angle which light rays pass through the interferential filter. It is also nice to have the lens focal length shown in the EXIF's. With the M9, on the 28mm it will correct for standard vignetting. If you look at the table below for the 28mm Summicron which I use, you will see that by the edge of the lens, at f2.0, there is a substantial light fall off of something over two stops.

 

Wilson

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Thanks. It definitely looks like I need to get my 28 summicron recognized. I do have one fear though, that maybe my sensor is kaputt. Is there any easy way to test it without having to find a factory 6-bit coded lens to test with? I cleaned the sensor with IPA and it looks fine, but I don't have a point of reference to go by being new to M8's.

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How near are you to a Leica dealer? They will test it for you with a coded lens and I would expect them to do this free of charge. The other option is to put a request in Barnack's Bar part of the forum, to try and find a nearby Leica Forum member, who has a coded lens, that he could try on your camera. I find that the sensor needs a clean from time to time with iso propyl alcohol, especially as a number of my lenses are hand coded (Zeiss 25 and 50, Leica 90/2.8 and 135/4) and the ink tends to rub off on the edge of the sensor.

 

Wilson

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Hey Wilson. Thanks for the help and suggestions.

 

Good news. They work! I rubbed the sensor again with IPA and made my dots fatter (although I had read not to do that) with a Pentel Sharpie and said a brief incantation to the Leica god and presto! I have now spent the entire day shooting and have yet to get my Lightroom program in the mail...

 

Oh to be a Leica owner.

 

:)

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