frank_dernie Posted June 7, 2011 Share #41 Posted June 7, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) I may try mine on my M8.2 whilst my M9 is in for service. The vignetting at f3.5 is massive on the M9 may suit the M8 better. It will be a major size change from the 35mm f1.4 Aspherical which is usually on the camera (or the 35mm f1.2 CV which is vast and heavy...) Frank Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted June 7, 2011 Posted June 7, 2011 Hi frank_dernie, Take a look here Perar lens. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
250swb Posted June 7, 2011 Share #42 Posted June 7, 2011 It seems, looking at all the pictures here, some more beautiful, some less, that the focus this small lens can deliver is more or less the same of a small medium quality point and shoot camera. I would say however that on the M8 should work better than the M9 due to the crop factor. But these are only assumptions. It is a clever person who is able to deduce that from a small 800x500 pixel JPEG:rolleyes: My 'straight out of ACR' contribution wasn't even sharpend! But realistically I think the Perar is about the same in resolution as an earlier Elmar, soft wide open, sharp closed down. And it's a quality I that is far better than a small P&S camera, particularly as they are not known for nice out of focus areas nor for having a sensor the size of the M9 that can record the smooth tones and rendering of a good lens. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
epand56 Posted June 7, 2011 Share #43 Posted June 7, 2011 Well I can imagine this lens is better than a point and shoot. And the level of sharpness in a picture is something you can see also on an 800x500 picture. It seems to me that the Perar is not as sharp as, let's say, a Summarit 35. But I can understand that since the diameter of the lens is probably half than that of a Summarit. This said, I like the image quality of the Perar and above all I'm strongly attracted to the very reduced size. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted June 7, 2011 Share #44 Posted June 7, 2011 No, it definitely is not as sharp as a Summarit 35mm. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted June 7, 2011 Share #45 Posted June 7, 2011 No, it definitely is not as sharp as a Summarit 35mm. Steve Hi The summarit 35mm is probably the best 35mm Leica lens at f/5.6 on brick wall shots, contra jour... Noel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bo_Lorentzen Posted June 7, 2011 Share #46 Posted June 7, 2011 Hmmm. considering that brick-wall shots is the number one reason im interested in leica, this is very critical information. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted June 7, 2011 Share #47 Posted June 7, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hmmm. considering that brick-wall shots is the number one reason im interested in leica, this is very critical information. Hi Bo A MTF machine is objective and repeatable and useful for optical designer to confirm the prototype or production people have built to specification. The brick wall contra jour using a solid tripod or similar is more critical, it does veiling flare as well, I have a lens testing chart as well but too clincal like the MTF machine. Easy with a M9 to do each 1/2 stop and sit and review in coffee shop, the quality of the brick pointing should not vary stop to stop if the lens is resolving... Noel Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/142601-perar-lens/?do=findComment&comment=1695325'>More sharing options...
Bo_Lorentzen Posted June 7, 2011 Share #48 Posted June 7, 2011 Xmas, Im sorry, I was kidding, meaning to say two things, first I have yet to photograph a brick-wall, second I have bigger problems, such as holding the camera still, most of my street photography is in the late afternoon or at dusk, and sadly almost all my shots have a tendency to motion-blur somewhere in the frame... the critical lens resolving power is lost on me. but a lens which feels good in my hand makes me happy. Bo Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted June 7, 2011 Share #49 Posted June 7, 2011 Hi The summarit 35mm is probably the best 35mm Leica lens at f/5.6 on brick wall shots, contra jour... Noel They are the only photographs worth looking at! Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pop Posted June 7, 2011 Share #50 Posted June 7, 2011 Does anyone know a brick layer who can build a brick wall for my 50mm Elmar? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted June 7, 2011 Share #51 Posted June 7, 2011 Xmas, Im sorry, I was kidding, meaning to say two things, first I have yet to photograph a brick-wall, second I have bigger problems, such as holding the camera still, most of my street photography is in the late afternoon or at dusk, and sadly almost all my shots have a tendency to motion-blur somewhere in the frame... the critical lens resolving power is lost on me. but a lens which feels good in my hand makes me happy. Bo Hi Bo Yes but lots of the 'focus ' of this fora is how well Leica lenses perform and how poor Cosina lenses perform. I like you pick lenses for the ergonomcs as I take street shoots too. The sample is from an Orion-15 f/6 in LTM at f/6, to check I'd put it back together ok, It was cheaper then Leica lens hood, it is single coated so compresses high contrast shots, when I'm using low contrast film. I sometimes go down to 1/4 or 1/8 but expect bluuuuuuur, piller or monopod sometimes. I tend to take posts as literal, it is easy to tease me. Noel Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/142601-perar-lens/?do=findComment&comment=1695391'>More sharing options...
Wunderkind Posted July 6, 2011 Share #52 Posted July 6, 2011 Hi all I received my Miyazaki Perar lens a few days ago. Mine is from the second production run which comes without the 6-bit coding. Question to those with their Perar lens coded (the first production lens came coded by Miyazaki-san), what is the code? Also, I haven't tried collapsing the lens so it lies flat against the mounting. How do I do this? Any 19mm filters recommendations for this lens? Cheers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ecar Posted July 6, 2011 Share #53 Posted July 6, 2011 Question to those with their Perar lens coded (the first production lens came coded by Miyazaki-san), what is the code? Summarit 35. I guess other may work too. Also, I haven't tried collapsing the lens so it lies flat against the mounting. How do I do this? Hold mount with one hand. Grab barrel with the other. Turn barrel counter-clockwise. Gently push barrel towards mount. Any 19mm filters recommendations for this lens? Try B+W. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkP Posted July 6, 2011 Share #54 Posted July 6, 2011 Recently bought for my Perar (delivery this week) a 19mm B+W MRC 010M 13500 UV HAZE FILTER from Foto Huppert <info@foto-huppert.de> Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkP Posted July 7, 2011 Share #55 Posted July 7, 2011 WARNING: My Perar just arrived today. Unfortunately the B+W 19mm filter cannot be mounted on the lens. I note that JapanImages does sell a 19mm filter quite cheap but I don't know anything about it. Does anyone want to buy an 19mm B+W filter? Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimcollum Posted July 9, 2011 Share #56 Posted July 9, 2011 should it only turn counter clockwise? and how 'stiff' should the turning be? my barrel turns 360 in either direction, and is loose enough to sometimes turn just from camera movement Summarit 35. I guess other may work too. Hold mount with one hand. Grab barrel with the other. Turn barrel counter-clockwise. Gently push barrel towards mount. Try B+W. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ecar Posted July 9, 2011 Share #57 Posted July 9, 2011 should it only turn counter clockwise? and how 'stiff' should the turning be?my barrel turns 360 in either direction, and is loose enough to sometimes turn just from camera movement Well, no - it should turn both ways. Counter-clockwise to collapse and clockwise to extend - just like other collapsible lenses. I suspect you haven't locked the barrel in either position. It should not be loose. Try this: pull the barrel away from the mount (gently but firmly - it won't break anything), then turn the barrel clockwise. It should lock in extended position. Just make sure you are holding the barrel as you do that - not just the small hood. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ecar Posted July 9, 2011 Share #58 Posted July 9, 2011 WARNING: My Perar just arrived today. Unfortunately the B+W 19mm filter cannot be mounted on the lens. I note that JapanImages does sell a 19mm filter quite cheap but I don't know anything about it. Does anyone want to buy an 19mm B+W filter? Mark Why is that? Different thread? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimcollum Posted July 9, 2011 Share #59 Posted July 9, 2011 Well, no - it should turn both ways. Counter-clockwise to collapse and clockwise to extend - just like other collapsible lenses. I suspect you haven't locked the barrel in either position. It should not be loose. Try this: pull the barrel away from the mount (gently but firmly - it won't break anything), then turn the barrel clockwise. It should lock in extended position. Just make sure you are holding the barrel as you do that - not just the small hood. i have it fully extended.. it doesn't turn to extend.. if i turn it a little it will pull straight out (no thread like movement). when out, it turns freely in either direction, without stopping (likewise. .if it's full in, it turns in either direction without stopping (also without extending). there are 'stops' . 3 of them that keep the lens from moving in and out. , but nothing to keep it from spinning . (it's hard to explain)... say i have the camera sitting on a table, lens stright up. lens is fully extended. if i turn the lens 1/3 a turn., it drops (gravity pulls it down) to the fully retracted position. (i have a mk2.. anyone with a mk2 see the same thing? it makes things awkward. i have to hold the barrel between fingers to turn the aperture. otherwise the lens will just keep spinning Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkP Posted July 9, 2011 Share #60 Posted July 9, 2011 i have it fully extended.. it doesn't turn to extend.. if i turn it a little it will pull straight out (no thread like movement). when out, it turns freely in either direction, without stopping (likewise. .if it's full in, it turns in either direction without stopping (also without extending). there are 'stops' . 3 of them that keep the lens from moving in and out. , but nothing to keep it from spinning . (it's hard to explain)... say i have the camera sitting on a table, lens stright up. lens is fully extended. if i turn the lens 1/3 a turn., it drops (gravity pulls it down) to the fully retracted position. (i have a mk2.. anyone with a mk2 see the same thing? it makes things awkward. i have to hold the barrel between fingers to turn the aperture. otherwise the lens will just keep spinning A number of points having just received my Perar mkII: 1. Once collapsed there is a lot of play in the lens barrel and therefore nothing to stop it sliding in and out with gravity depending on the position of the camera body. The lens cannot be locked down when collapsed. 2. Even with the lens barrel extended and twisted to lock, the relatively light pressure required to turn the aperture ring unlocks the lens barrel and causes it to collapse, unless you pull on the ring as turning with just the right amount of pressure. 3. The 19 mm B+W filter thread will not mount on the lens and is a bit loose on the lens hood thread. I note they sell 19mm filters. 4. Unfortunately there is a smudge on an inner lens surface. I've emailed Dirk at JapanExposures who has been very helpful and I'm sending the lens back for cleaning and advice about #2. I should say that despite these issues my initial images with the lens are really nice. It is very small and light, and well finished. Except for #2 above, the ergonomics when shooting are fine. Dirk kindly coded it for me (Summarit 35). He's been checking the focus calibration for every lens before it goes out and mine was perfect. Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.