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Epson3880 - recommendations, tips, good, bad?


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I've searched the forum and looked through all the mentions I can find on the 3880, but I'm hoping to collect some more direct impressions, recommendations, warnings, tips for best use, and so on.

 

As far as I can see, the output far exceeds my previous Epson printer (from around five? years ago) but I find that printers rarely live up to my expectations. If I'm going to buy this machine, then I definitely want to know how to get the absolute best from it.

 

If I've missed a thread that covers all this ground, then please refer me to it, and I'll request a lock-down on this thread.

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Early last year I purchased the Epson 2880 and was very pleased with the results. Within a very short period of time I found the maximum A3 print size rather limiting.

 

Late last year I was invited to do an exhibition. Based on the results I was getting with the 2880 I decided that I would do my own A2 prints for the exhibition and took the plunge and bought the Epson 3880, I couldn't be more pleased! It's one of the only printers I've tested that prints "true" blacks, greys and whites with no hue. I believe some of the newest Canon printers are coming close now.

 

In terms of achieving optimum results there's a great deal of trial and error.

 

Firstly there are a few basics to sort out, you probably know this already.

1.Ensure that your monitor is calibrated.

 

2.One of the other fundamentals in my mind is to settle on a photo paper you really like; in my case I'm using Ilford Gold Fibre Silk.

Then download the profiles for that particular paper and printer combo from the paper manufacturer's website.

 

3.I've also found that it makes a difference which digital post processing program you're printing via.

 

I've tried both Photoshop and Lightroom and seem to be getting better results from Lightroom3.

 

There are far too many variables to list in a thread of this nature.

There's a good review here:

epson Stylus Pro 3880 A2 printer review

 

The bottom line is that it's a great printer that has the capacity to deliver wonderful results.

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Thanks Michali!

 

That's exactly the sort of input I was hoping for!

I've tried to research the printer online, but haven't found any useful discussions about real hands-on usage (the reviews I've found so far always tend to reflect a week or so of use).

 

The printer output I've seen is extremely impressive - but best of all would be the ability to take a file along to the store and do a test print yourself. Unfortunately, that would probably work out expensive for the store. :o

 

Thanks again - I'll go read the review on Northlight Images.

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Mike has said it all

I had the 3800 for a number of years - excellent results and no problems at all. Just got the 3880 and it is even better, although the difference from perfect to better than perfect is very small!

Calibrate my screen to 80 l/m2 and make my own profiles with i1Pro from x-rite.

Prints are practically indistinguishable from the screen.

If you wish, I can email profiles to you for Gold Fiber Silk, Harman Baryta glossy or Innova FIBA09 glossy White, Ilford Double sided Lustre.

Maurice

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Early last year I purchased the Epson 2880 and was very pleased with the results. Within a very short period of time I found the maximum A3 print size rather limiting.

 

Late last year I was invited to do an exhibition. Based on the results I was getting with the 2880 I decided that I would do my own A2 prints for the exhibition and took the plunge and bought the Epson 3880, I couldn't be more pleased! It's one of the only printers I've tested that prints "true" blacks, greys and whites with no hue. I believe some of the newest Canon printers are coming close now.

 

In terms of achieving optimum results there's a great deal of trial and error.

 

Firstly there are a few basics to sort out, you probably know this already.

1.Ensure that your monitor is calibrated.

 

2.One of the other fundamentals in my mind is to settle on a photo paper you really like; in my case I'm using Ilford Gold Fibre Silk.

Then download the profiles for that particular paper and printer combo from the paper manufacturer's website.

 

3.I've also found that it makes a difference which digital post processing program you're printing via.

 

I've tried both Photoshop and Lightroom and seem to be getting better results from Lightroom3.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I agree with almost everything said above, except that (never having used Lightroom) I prefer Photoshop CS5 - recently acquired. Am a convert to Ilford Galerie Gold Fibre Silk, which I'm currently evaluating together with Hahnemuhle Glossy Fine Art - for use with scanned 4x5 b&w negatives. Also, I've gone a step further than manufacturer profiles (which are probably fine): have used an X-Rite Color Munki Photo to develop custom profiles for the 3880 printer.

 

 

 

The bottom line is that it's a great printer that has the capacity to deliver wonderful results.

 

I ag

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Thanks Michali!

 

That's exactly the sort of input I was hoping for!

I've tried to research the printer online, but haven't found any useful discussions about real hands-on usage (the reviews I've found so far always tend to reflect a week or so of use).

 

The printer output I've seen is extremely impressive - but best of all would be the ability to take a file along to the store and do a test print yourself. Unfortunately, that would probably work out expensive for the store. :o

 

Thanks again - I'll go read the review on Northlight Images.

 

Mani--the 38xx series from Epson is superb. Some would even say Epson is slow to update this line (to a 3900 / 3990 with the newest inksets) because it will eat sales of their more expensive printers.

 

I've used a 3800 for years now, and it's just about due for the upgrade to the next generation, but I'm waiting to see if they will bring out a 3900 this year :)

 

In any case, I don't think you'll be sorry. I use mine with a RIP but you typically don't have to unless you need to print on very funky art papers...(you need some way to limit ink with some very porous art papers).

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Thank you all for truly informative input and offers of help!

I'm currently torn as to whether to jump straight back into printing through the 3880 or to start out by making some Blurb books of the images (mostly scanned film) which I've been making over the last year, or so. The Blurb idea has very definite appeal because of the extra design process it entails, but I'm really excited by what I've seen from the Epson - especially on heavy matte papers.

Maybe I should see what the internet 'noise' is on the release of a new printer before I make the leap - thanks for that heads-up Jamie!

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I belatedly saw this post. I get great results from my 3800. The following may be useful since I suspect most issues and tips pertain to the 3880 as well...

 

Epson Stylus Pro 3800 FAQ

 

Epson 3800 Step-By-Step Printing Workflow

 

My experience suggests that even the best printers will not perform at maximum capability unless one: uses and coordinates proper settings for front end software (LR, etc) as well as for the printer and monitor; uses high quality papers and associated profiles, and develops a disciplined workflow (just like in the darkroom days) to obtain consistent and predictable results. These basic steps will enhance results for even modest printers. With the 3880, prints can be spectacular.

 

Jeff

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Brilliant resources!

 

Would people still agree with the recommended hardware calibrator mentioned in the article? (the Eye-One Display 2 colorimeter) I've been intending to get some sort of calibrator for a while, but haven't been sure which to opt for.

 

Anyway, a wealth of information! Thanks again!

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I found the eye0one display 2 excellent. I later bought the much more expensive eye1 Pro system to be able to calibrate my printer for the papers I use, but as a monitor calibrator the display 2 does an excellent job and I still have it.

By the way, the paper profiles you can download from paper manufacturers are not bad, but I find the profiles I make myself with the x-rite i1Pro are better and lead to prints that match the screen extremely closely, both as to color and brightness. And that is what I want, otherwise I might as well be less critical and pay less attention to what I do in Post processing.

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I use a NEC 24" LCD monitor with built-in MultiSync software. Sean Reid reviewed it favorably and I've been very happy with the results.

 

I've used manufacturer paper profiles, but generally prefer custom profiles, which I'm fortunate to get using a friend's X-Rite i1 Xtreme system (retails about $1500 US, so not inexpensive). There are some exceptional papers currently available to profile.

 

One thing not mentioned here, but discussed in other threads, is the possibility of substituting third party inks for b/w work. The Cone system, for instance, allows for 7 shades of grey/black versus 3 for Epson inks. However, one needs a dedicated printer for this and then must deal with complications to the workflow, so not recommended for inexperienced printers. I mention this since it illustrates one of many possible tactics to extract the utmost performance from these modern machines once the basics are covered.

 

I thought I would dearly miss silver prints from darkroom work, but have been pleasantly surprised at the quality of results from learning to use these digital tools. Next on the learning curve may well be to create a book (Blurb or otherwise); two different processes and outputs that require some common grounding in use of color spaces, tools and workflow (and unfortunately, money).

 

Jeff

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Agree with all of the above.

 

I wasn't 100% happy with the output I got straight out of LR, but as soon as I switched to QImage the prints were so closely matched to my monitor that I didn't even consider buying an (expensive) RIP. In all fairness, this has likely more to do with me not being able to use LR print module properly than with anything else.

 

Good news is that head clogging (a frequent and very annoying "feature" of older Epson printers) appears to be a thing of the past. The printer can remain unused for extended periods of time (my experience is 2+ months) and the next print will come out perfect - just make sure that the printer sits in an environment that is not too warm nor too dry (my office is 20° C and approx. 45-50% relative humidity, so nothing special).

 

I only make my own print profiles when I can't find canned ones from the manufacturer (this is rare, but I still have stocks of older papers) or when I'm not entirely happy with the results I get from these.

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