mgreernz Posted January 11, 2011 Share #1 Posted January 11, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) I'd appreciate some learned comment. The attached file is from a mint condition Leica IIIf (which has just been CLA'd anyway) and a recently acquired 5cm Elmar f2.8. I'm puzzled by the centre haze (within the green marked oval) that is noticeable in all the shots taken with this lens. Puzzled because, I've closely examined the lens (LED spotlight and all that...) and can see no visible sign whatsoever of any fogging, fungus or over-vigorous cleaning - it really does look in as mint condition as the IIIf. And it's not the scanner, because on another set of scans off a different lens (a 3.5cm Summaron) there's no sign of haze at all. Is fogging sometimes not so easily visible until the lens is disassembled? Or is there some other symptom I might be overlooking? Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/141454-haze-from-an-elmar-5cm-f28/?do=findComment&comment=1554963'>More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted January 11, 2011 Posted January 11, 2011 Hi mgreernz, Take a look here Haze from an Elmar 5cm f2.8. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
earleygallery Posted January 11, 2011 Share #2 Posted January 11, 2011 Most likely it's just flare. You can buy a lens hood which should help. However it could be a number of other issues - is it visible on every frame? If so then there is something amiss with the camera or possibly the processing. Haze in a lens wouldn't be so distinct, it would affect the whole frame. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mgreernz Posted January 11, 2011 Author Share #3 Posted January 11, 2011 I thought of flare, but dismissed it because it is identically placed in every shot taken with this lens - even in shots where no direct sunlight is cast. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted January 11, 2011 Share #4 Posted January 11, 2011 I Agree it does not look like the lens. Please try a C41 color film chepo 24 exp. This is to have dev and sent back with the IIIf... If the 'flare' 'spot' is sky colored then the leak is unto front of film, if it is muddy through the back of film. For the Elmar you need a 'dark' room and a flash light the lens should be 'gin' clear... You shine the light from the other end of the lens. They do need deep hoods, for the single coating, and a Leitz origonal is dear... Sorry. Noel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
earleygallery Posted January 11, 2011 Share #5 Posted January 11, 2011 Well it sounds like a light leak to me then, caused in camera or possibly during processing. As Noel suggested shoot a roll of C41 and take it to a 1hr processor, and see what you find. The lllf is pretty secure in terms of potential light leaks. It could be a 'loose' shutter curtain or a leak from the viewfinder/rangefinder area of the camera. Holes in the shutter curtain would cause much more pinpoint highlights. You say the camera has just been CLA'd - perhaps something wasn't put back together properly? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted January 11, 2011 Share #6 Posted January 11, 2011 Hi Make a paper mache tube which just pushes on the lens front outer and paint interior with black board paint. I sometimes use my /2.8 without a hood, dont get that effect. Noel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mgreernz Posted January 11, 2011 Author Share #7 Posted January 11, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) Thanks for the various replies - all of them very helpful. I'm beginning to concede that it maybe flare. After more carefully analysing the sequence of shots this morning, the shot below is from the same afternoon's shooting. But in this one, although some diffused sunlight is coming from a position of about 10 o'clock on the photo, the camera and lens is pointing distinctly down (from the wharf) towards the tug. And lo, there's no centre haze as in the previous (and most other shots with this lens). I'm pretty confident that it's not the camera, because there's no sign of it occurring when the 3.5cm Summaron is on it. Disappointing really, because I didn't expect the 5.0cm Elmar to be quite so prone to flare. Maybe I need to remortgage the house and go hunting for the 1999 50mm Summicron M39 LTM I'd really like! Any opinions about the collapsible Summicron 50mm f/2. ? Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/141454-haze-from-an-elmar-5cm-f28/?do=findComment&comment=1555584'>More sharing options...
earleygallery Posted January 11, 2011 Share #8 Posted January 11, 2011 The Elmar is a fine lens. Just buy a lens hood. Or sell the 2.8 and buy yourself a 3.5 Red Scale version which seems less flare prone. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted January 12, 2011 Share #9 Posted January 12, 2011 Hi The Elmar and crons from 58 to 69 are antiques and even if clean (internally) do need hoods, the leitz hoods were deep for the Elmars and large for the Crons, barndoors. But the lens does need to be clean and undamaged internally, none of mine do that without hoods. The cron is medium contrast and you might like the Elmar more, But lots of people like the signature from these lenses. Or even the earlier coated or uncoated Summitars. But the signature is very subjective. Noel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyoung Posted January 12, 2011 Share #10 Posted January 12, 2011 When having my 2.8 Elmar cleaned etc. by Malcolm taylor, I was told that it should be kept at f/2.8 when not in use, there is something in the lubricant for the iris blades which evaporates onto the inside of the front element, which is close, it can etch the surface of the element. Same applies to the 2.8 90 Elmarit apparently. I have used a 2.8 Elmar for more than 40 years annd never noticed a particular problem with flare, but all my lenses have their hoods on all the time. Gerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tobey bilek Posted January 13, 2011 Share #11 Posted January 13, 2011 Elmars and Summicrons from that period make pics very similar at the same stops. Do not bother switching unless you need F 2.0 and 2.0 is not all that good. Only the center area is sharp. You can use any 50 mm clamp on or screw in lens shade and it makes no difference in final effect. I have tried them all and when I look at the front glass at an angle with the various shades, all have very similar shading ability. Strange as it might seem, the straight tube type screw in from my recently discontinued last version 50 2.8 is just as efficient as the bigger vented shades. Actually the lens is one of my favorites, but is bayonet only. The most functional one is the old barn door type for the Summitar-Summicron. It is large, gets in the way, hard to deal with, but shades the lens better than any other. Be sure to get the model for flat bottom grove-Summitar-Summicron. Not worth it in my opinion. Mine is reserved for Summitar only when I need more protection than I can achieve with other more simple solutions. Someone suggested a red scale 50 3.5 which is a fine line. There is a 36 mm clamp on shade that fits it and the 35 Summaron. It is about .75" long. I use it on both my 35 & 50 36mm dia lenses. Will not work on 42 mm O.D. Elmar, 39 filter size, which is what you have. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
earleygallery Posted January 13, 2011 Share #12 Posted January 13, 2011 Someone suggested a red scale 50 3.5 which is a fine line. That was me. I have both the 3.5 and 2.8 Elmars. The 3.5 is a better overall perfomer, but it's marginal. The 2.8 is a little soft wide open but still good, and of course much more convenient in terms of using filters and the aperture ring. As we know that the problem is lens flare, not a fault in the camera or haze in the lens, I think the OP's best solution is a 39mm screw in lens hood. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted January 13, 2011 Share #13 Posted January 13, 2011 Hi Toby I use the ITOOY which is deeper than the modern screw in, when I remember, but not had that hot spot effect yet, when I forget, I'd suspect haze, or leak. Nostalgia alert... I can recall the Leica ads from the time that said the cron at /4 was better then the elmar at /5.6, but ad copy is allus a trifle iffy. & the cron is lower contrast Noel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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