jc_braconi Posted February 8, 2011 Share #81 Posted February 8, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) I checked the Leicameter with my digital camera's readings and it seemed pretty much the same so hopefully I got most of the photos properly exposed. . Under the Leicameter is a screw with + & - signs. so you can adjust it. (I used to over exposed my B&W film by 1 dia.) I'm a little un-easy about walking about at night with over a £1k of camera & lens etc hanging off my shoulder, Glasgow city centre can be a bit dodgy at the best of times on a Saturday evening although it's debatable whether many people there would know the value of the camera and lens however it is still a concern of mine. . Hang it on your neck, (and if you will use a good strap a M3 is a good self defense weapon, just in case....) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted February 8, 2011 Posted February 8, 2011 Hi jc_braconi, Take a look here New Leica M3 owner seeking lens advice. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
gvaliquette Posted February 9, 2011 Share #82 Posted February 9, 2011 Hang it on your neck, (and if you will use a good strap a M3 is a good self defense weapon, just in case....) I remember fending off a particularly pesky junkie in Amsterdan demanding a "native tax from you tourists" with my (previous life) Contarex Super, held by the barrel of its 135mm/f2.8 Sonnar. Quite effective! My (current) R9 would do equally well for that purpose, Tony, I can tell you are absolutely excited by your new/old M3. I totally understand. Although my first Leica was a M4-2 purchased new more than 30 years ago, I got a M3 about a year and a half ago and I just love its feel. That M3 got me started on acquiring several period lenses (Elmars, Summilux 50 I, Summitar, Summaron 35/2.8 with googles), so... beware! Guy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twotone Posted February 9, 2011 Author Share #83 Posted February 9, 2011 Under the Leicameter is a screw with + & - signs. so you can adjust it.(I used to over exposed my B&W film by 1 dia.) Hang it on your neck, (and if you will use a good strap a M3 is a good self defense weapon, just in case....) So your basically fooling the meter, jc, into thinking that there is less light than there actually is? I tried adjusting the screw ( there is a 0 with two arrows pointing in opposite directions) however it continues to turn which ever way you turn it but I think I managed to set it for over-exposure. I checked the light with my digi camera's internal meter which was for example F8 & 250th/sec so I adjusted the meter screw to read F5.6 in the same light on the Leica meter, correct? Good tip re the camera but you've clearly not been in Glasgow city centre late on a Saturday evening jc BTW, I got my second B&W film developed today and I'm pretty pleased with the results however a few of the pics are slightly underexposed. I like the look of some of those but certainly the subjects in those photos are a bit too dark so see really properly but the backgrounds and the blacks look really nice though. The lens is fantastic with nice clear sharp images and most of the subjects are in perfect focus plus the out of focus areas in the photos is quite amazing in some of the pics. I just have to get my shutter speeds better as some of the photos are showing a lot of grain and softness, I think that's because I was using F2 and slow shutters speeds of around a 30th/sec. I think I need to stick to F2.8 and faster shutter speeds. I'll post some of them up later on but not here obviously so where exactly in the forum should I post them? Regards, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twotone Posted February 9, 2011 Author Share #84 Posted February 9, 2011 I remember fending off a particularly pesky junkie in Amsterdan demanding a "native tax from you tourists" with my (previous life) Contarex Super, held by the barrel of its 135mm/f2.8 Sonnar. Quite effective! My (current) R9 would do equally well for that purpose, Tony, I can tell you are absolutely excited by your new/old M3. I totally understand. Although my first Leica was a M4-2 purchased new more than 30 years ago, I got a M3 about a year and a half ago and I just love its feel. That M3 got me started on acquiring several period lenses (Elmars, Summilux 50 I, Summitar, Summaron 35/2.8 with googles), so... beware! Guy Thanks Guy, yeah the camera would probably knock someone out if you aimed them a nifty blow to the head:D Re lenses, I think the only other lens I would buy would be 90mm. I've had a 135mm FL cheap Nikon lens for about thirty odd years but when I was using the old Nikon EM camera I rarely used the 135mm lens and I ditched the supplied 50mm lens that came with the camera for 28mm lens which is okay but I think a lot of my photos from then look a bit empty and I didn't manage to get close enough to the subject which is why I want to stick with the 50mm lens for the Leica. I quite fancy trying a 35mm Summicron with specs but to be honest I don't think I can afford to have both a 50 and 35mm Summicron so one would have to go. Regards, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyoung Posted February 10, 2011 Share #85 Posted February 10, 2011 So your basically fooling the meter, jc, into thinking that there is less light than there actually is? I tried adjusting the screw ( there is a 0 with two arrows pointing in opposite directions) however it continues to turn which ever way you turn it but I think I managed to set it for over-exposure. (Trimmed) Regards, Tony I'm pretty sure that the screw is to adjust the needle to zero (cover the cell first!) and I wouldn't be confident that a stop 'extra' set at one light level would be linear across the range. If you want to 'fool' the meter I always reset the film speed. Then I can boast that I uprate the film when really I am compensating for poor measuring technique....... Gerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twotone Posted February 10, 2011 Author Share #86 Posted February 10, 2011 I'm pretty sure that the screw is to adjust the needle to zero (cover the cell first!) and I wouldn't be confident that a stop 'extra' set at one light level would be linear across the range. If you want to 'fool' the meter I always reset the film speed. Then I can boast that I uprate the film when really I am compensating for poor measuring technique....... Gerry Thanks Gerry so for 400 asa you would set the meter to 200 asa to overexpose then enter those reading into the camera re shutter speed and aperture? Sounds like a plan:cool: Regards Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyoung Posted February 10, 2011 Share #87 Posted February 10, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) Thanks Gerry so for 400 asa you would set the meter to 200 asa to overexpose then enter those reading into the camera re shutter speed and aperture? Sounds like a plan:cool: Regards Tony Thats right as long as you want to increase exposure by 1 stop consistently, I prefer to set the meter at the 'correct' film speed and then allow for subject, lighting etc. mentally. Then if that doesn't agree with sunny 16 I question what I have done Gerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twotone Posted February 10, 2011 Author Share #88 Posted February 10, 2011 Thats right as long as you want to increase exposure by 1 stop consistently, I prefer to set the meter at the 'correct' film speed and then allow for subject, lighting etc. mentally. Then if that doesn't agree with sunny 16 I question what I have done Gerry Thanks Gerry, I re-calibrated the Leica meter MC as you suggested and it seems to be working spot on in relation to my Nikon D40's internal meter. The Leica meter re-acts pretty quickly to light BTW. What about filters? I'm using an orange filter for B&W so do I have to over expose slightly to compensate now and also, do I remove the uva filter from lens and just fit the orange filter for B&W and then replace that filter with the uva filter for colour film? Sorry for the 'noob' questions Gerry Regards, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyoung Posted February 10, 2011 Share #89 Posted February 10, 2011 Yes, the filter will have a 'factor' usually engraved on the mount, so 2x would be 1 stop extra, 3x 1 1/2 stops, 4x 2 stops etc. If not engraved you can hold the filter in front of the meter and see what effect it has on the reading, although this is not necessarily accurate depending on whether the meters colour response is the same as film. Use and effect of couloured filters on B&W depends also on personal taste, and the film you are using, experiment is the rule. I wouldn't have more than one filter on a lens, more chance of flare, possible vignetting, deterioration of image quality with the extra layers of glass. Sounds like you need a good book on basic B&W photography, mine is the Ilford manual but that was bought 50 years ago and its a bit ragged now Have fun, Gerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc_braconi Posted February 10, 2011 Share #90 Posted February 10, 2011 I just have to get my shutter speeds better as some of the photos are showing a lot of grain and softness, I think that's because I was using F2 and slow shutters speeds of around a 30th/sec. I think I need to stick to F2.8 and faster shutter speeds. Tony You need to know that every kind of lens has is best aperture. for example the best aperture for the Summicron 2/50 is between 5.6 & 8. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twotone Posted February 10, 2011 Author Share #91 Posted February 10, 2011 You need to know that every kind of lens has is best aperture.for example the best aperture for the Summicron 2/50 is between 5.6 & 8. Hi jc, yes some of the photos are in the 5,6 to 4 range and are absolutely stunning in terms of sharpness, rendition and contrast. I've never taken photographs before with such quality however the f2 pics are pretty soft and 'washed out' looking but that could be my bad exposure techniques because I can't see how there could be such a contrast between close f numbers. Incidentally a couple of the photos which were taken in the railway station directly under large lights have 'flares' ( vertical strips of bright light) in them but I presume that is do with me not having a lenshood or standing directly underneath those lights. Here are some of the pics JC Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc_braconi Posted February 11, 2011 Share #92 Posted February 11, 2011 Incidentally a couple of the photos which were taken in the railway station directly under large lights have 'flares' ( vertical strips of bright light) in them but I presume that is do with me not having a lenshood or standing directly underneath those lights. Tony Tony , in such a condition use your left hand as a hood for your lens, even you have a sunshade. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falstaff Posted February 11, 2011 Share #93 Posted February 11, 2011 Regarding flare. I think someone more experienced than I should step in, but is that really flare? I am referring to the pictures in the train station. If it is flare, than I stand corrected Falstaff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wizard Posted February 11, 2011 Share #94 Posted February 11, 2011 Doesn't look like flare to me either. Just a guess, but it could be light hitting the film through the film canister's slot after rewinding the film. I don't think it's a camera issue, as all other shots are fine in this regard. Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyoung Posted February 11, 2011 Share #95 Posted February 11, 2011 yes, my first thought was it looks more like fogging Gerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twotone Posted February 11, 2011 Author Share #96 Posted February 11, 2011 Doesn't look like flare to me either. Just a guess, but it could be light hitting the film through the film canister's slot after rewinding the film. I don't think it's a camera issue, as all other shots are fine in this regard. Andy Those two photos out of three entire films are the only ones displaying that light. The first film I shot was an old Kodak Gold 200 and only 16 photos out of 24 were developed however I have the negs for all 24 shots. The other two films are Ilford SP super X 36 and both of those were developed in one hour at the same Boots branch, the first film was developed in a different branch of boots and I got a CD for that film and for the last one along with prints for all three filsm. I've very careful with film after I remove it from a camera, it always goes into the plastic canister the film came in out of the box. Thanks Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twotone Posted February 28, 2011 Author Share #97 Posted February 28, 2011 Hi guys, for those who are interested here are some of my latest photos all taken with an orange filter on the lens. I absolutely love this camera and the lens:D Flickr: tonybhoy1's Photostream Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc_braconi Posted February 28, 2011 Share #98 Posted February 28, 2011 Hi guys, for those who are interested here are some of my latest photos all taken with an orange filter on the lens. I absolutely love this camera and the lens:D Flickr: tonybhoy1's Photostream God job Tony. The M3 is a great machine ! isn'it ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twotone Posted February 28, 2011 Author Share #99 Posted February 28, 2011 God job Tony.The M3 is a great machine ! isn'it ? Thanks jc. Yes a wonderful machine indeed, I've never taken better photographs and I'm learning every time I go out with the camera and lens. With this latest film set I sometimes forgot about the filter and some photos were seriously under-exposed but the others were wonderful. BTW, the first three photos from the car window are my daughter's. Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twotone Posted April 15, 2011 Author Share #100 Posted April 15, 2011 Some more photos guys, some of these were taken from the air returning from Barra to Glasgow. The lens and the camera continues to astound me Barra, Scotland & Glasgow - a set on Flickr Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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