jc_braconi Posted January 19, 2011 Share #61 Posted January 19, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) I do use this hood (12585) but its not reversible on the 35 Summicron, the focus tab gets in the way, Gerry Right...in the 60's I milled one, next painted the edge for the 35mm Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted January 19, 2011 Posted January 19, 2011 Hi jc_braconi, Take a look here New Leica M3 owner seeking lens advice. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Twotone Posted January 19, 2011 Author Share #62 Posted January 19, 2011 Hi guys here are some of my very first photos with my M3 and Summicron lens. I'm totally amazed at the quality of these prints coming, as they do, from a 50year old camera and a 46 year old lens. There is a small hair line mark on the top right of most of the prints which is I suspect something on the lens (I think I can see a feint mark on the front of the lens) which hopefully will clean off. The film was old Kodak Gold asa 200 and most of the exposures were used by employing the 'sunny 16 rule' however I may have gotten some of them wrong Anyway I hope it's okay to post them here, they're low res images. Thanks Tony BTW, I've bought some Ilford XP2 super 400 B&W film, I've never used B&W so should be interesting using them. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/140763-new-leica-m3-owner-seeking-lens-advice/?do=findComment&comment=1563312'>More sharing options...
andybarton Posted January 19, 2011 Share #63 Posted January 19, 2011 Please post any more in the Photo section. Thanks (And at least one needs rotating ) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twotone Posted January 19, 2011 Author Share #64 Posted January 19, 2011 Thanks Andy, will do. Yeah I know about the rotating thing but it was a bit of a faff to do i, might change it later though. Regards, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc_braconi Posted January 19, 2011 Share #65 Posted January 19, 2011 I think the best rendering (and in respect of the capacity of the lens) is #3 (you can imagine how cold must be this flushing water. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc_braconi Posted January 19, 2011 Share #66 Posted January 19, 2011 try this... Used Cameras from 89 specialist Camera Shops in the UK John "This link does not have a label for entry control" said my navigator... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pop Posted January 19, 2011 Share #67 Posted January 19, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) "This link does not have a label for entry control" said my navigator... Your navigator talks through its hat. That's a perfectly reasonable link. Do you have parental control or some such enabled on your computer? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twotone Posted January 19, 2011 Author Share #68 Posted January 19, 2011 I think the best rendering (and in respect of the capacity of the lens) is #3 (you can imagine how cold must be this flushing water. Thanks JC, personally I thought #1 with the berries showed the sharpness of the lens very well. BTW, can you see the feint 'hairline' on the top right of pic no's #1 & #2 ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pop Posted January 19, 2011 Share #69 Posted January 19, 2011 can you see the feint 'hairline' on the top right of pic no's #1 & #2 ? I can see faint white lines in the sky on #1 and #2. The lines seem to have the same shape and are rather clearly formed. In the other pictures I can not detect those lines. I don't know where to look and the content of the pictures would mask such fine lines, anyway. Assuming those to be negatives, I would look into the scanner. There might be some dust or some cleaning residue on the scanner's glass plate. I don't think that the lens of the camera can produce such clearly delineated white lines. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twotone Posted January 19, 2011 Author Share #70 Posted January 19, 2011 I can see faint white lines in the sky on #1 and #2. The lines seem to have the same shape and are rather clearly formed. In the other pictures I can not detect those lines. I don't know where to look and the content of the pictures would mask such fine lines, anyway. Assuming those to be negatives, I would look into the scanner. There might be some dust or some cleaning residue on the scanner's glass plate. I don't think that the lens of the camera can produce such clearly delineated white lines. Hi Philipp, yes they're negatives but also scanned onto a CD which is what I've been using to put onto the laptop and then on here. I had them developed in Boots today on a one hour service, had never considered the scanner/lab to be at fault. The line is in all of the photos or at least all of the photos that I can see the lines in are in the exact same place in the photos. I've had a look at the lens and it really is spotless except for some very light normal smudges on the front element, I certainly can't see anything that looks like a hair or a mark like a line in or on the lens. Thanks, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted January 19, 2011 Share #71 Posted January 19, 2011 It must be on the scanner unless its fluff caught in the film gate of the camera? Take off the lens, open the shutter to B (with no film in... ) and have a look at the bottom left hand corner. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twotone Posted January 19, 2011 Author Share #72 Posted January 19, 2011 It must be on the scanner unless its fluff caught in the film gate of the camera? Take off the lens, open the shutter to B (with no film in... ) and have a look at the bottom left hand corner. Thanks Andy, just had a look there and it's pretty much spotless in there too. Once I've shot another roll I might go to a different (Boots) lab to have the photos developed. Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyoung Posted January 19, 2011 Share #73 Posted January 19, 2011 Right...in the 60's I milled one, next painted the edge for the 35mm/quote] I have thought at various times of doing something similar my self, but in the end the 35 spends a lot of time on the camera and thus the hood stays on the lens. The M3 35s are so bulky too it makes less difference! Actually since the viewfinder window of the 'specs' is so far forward, the cutouts in the hood are less necessary, and I sometimes use the earlier IROOA for that period look That hood hides a lot of the M6 etc viewfinder though! I sometimes think that those hoods of that period (12585 and 12575 for the 90 etc) typify the care and attention to detail that Leitz applied to things in those days, whereas the hoods for the newer lenses are iritatingly inconsistent, the hood for the 35 asph Summicron is a nice design practically but could usefully have a cut out for viewing in the top corner, so I have cut one in it myself, conversely the hood for the 21 asph Elmarit has a cut out for no obvious reason since Leica don't make a camera with a 21 viewfinder built in (probably useful on the Voigtlander R4 though!). I dont know what they were thinking when they did the hood on my 50 Summilux (the last version before the aspheric), with a filter on the lens the hood extends so little in front of it that its 'neither use nor ornament'. Gerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Geschlecht Posted January 20, 2011 Share #74 Posted January 20, 2011 Hello Again Tony, A few thoughts about your Post #59: As a person who has had a number of wives I have found it more desirable to have a happy wife than a piece of photographic equipment. Nonetheless it is quite often possible for you to have both. I store my lenses w/ caps on both ends but leave all caps off my lenses once they are on the camera. It is not hard to learn to keep the lens w/ hood pointed in a direction which by a significant margin does not allow the sun to enter the angle of acceptance of the specific lens. The lens w/ hood already on is available for use more quickly that way. I use a narrow camera strap. It is adjusted so that when I put the strap on my shoulder & pull the viewfinder against my dominant eye the camera/lens combination is pulled tightly against me. This holds it more steadily. I often walk w/ the strap wrapped twice around my left wrist (that's why a narrow strap) w/ my left hand holding the camera/lens from underneath. Best Regards, Michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twotone Posted January 20, 2011 Author Share #75 Posted January 20, 2011 Hello Again Tony, A few thoughts about your Post #59: As a person who has had a number of wives I have found it more desirable to have a happy wife than a piece of photographic equipment. Nonetheless it is quite often possible for you to have both. I store my lenses w/ caps on both ends but leave all caps off my lenses once they are on the camera. It is not hard to learn to keep the lens w/ hood pointed in a direction which by a significant margin does not allow the sun to enter the angle of acceptance of the specific lens. The lens w/ hood already on is available for use more quickly that way. I use a narrow camera strap. It is adjusted so that when I put the strap on my shoulder & pull the viewfinder against my dominant eye the camera/lens combination is pulled tightly against me. This holds it more steadily. I often walk w/ the strap wrapped twice around my left wrist (that's why a narrow strap) w/ my left hand holding the camera/lens from underneath. Best Regards, Michael Thanks Michael, great tips as usual, thanks for those. Regarding my wife, actually she has been brilliant with me. I went through a 'hi-fi faze' last year and she supported me with that 'hobby' too I think however that she can see the quality of the stuff that I'm buying and to be completely honest if we need money quickly then these items can be re-sold with very little loss, the hi-fi equipment is also of a very high standard although it is pretty old too. The Ever Ready Case turned up today and is in wonderful condition. I love the case and I now feel pretty secure with using the camera and lens as it offers excellent protection. The case will also allow me to use an exposure meter on top of the camera, there seems to be plenty of space for that, just need to decide if I want one now. I'm seriously considering a Leica meter MR or MR-4, the guy I bought the lens from has a few mint ones starting at about 180 euros or I may buy one of the Voightlander ones as these seem to very popular with the M3. Regards, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Geschlecht Posted January 21, 2011 Share #76 Posted January 21, 2011 Hello Again Tony, Because of the ecological negatives of mercury batteries & the hopefully lower toxicity of silver button cells I use my MR meter in the following manner: I took a 16mm stainless spring steel split ring & w/ 2 pairs of needle nosed pliers pulled one end in toward the center creating a swirl like a watch balance spring. I made the inside of this swirl slightly smaller in diameter than a silver 357 or equivalent battery. This spring w/ the battery inside together then fits into the space previously occupied by the PX 13/625. Make sure the + side is up & you are looking @ the + before you close the cover. Then the important part: ADD 1.5 DIN to whatever film speed you are using. You must do this to get proper exposures. 1.5 DIN is easy to set on any MR or MR-4 meter. Now simply use the meter @ an appropriate ISO w/ no further thought to adapters or recalibration. I have done this for years & find the results fine. My Sensia 100 slides taken w/ meter set to DIN 22.5 used outside on New Years Day this year have unburned accurate hi-lites, fine tonality & gradation in the midtones & good detail in the shadows. I also do this w/ equal sucess w/ a Minolta 101. Best Regards, Michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pangur Ban Posted January 21, 2011 Share #77 Posted January 21, 2011 T Did you eventually buy a meter and if so which one?Ultimate Exposure Computer I have had several, but the one I think best is the Sekonic L-208 - small and inexpensive with both incident and direct metering. I have also: - the Voigtlander VCII meter - excellent and fits nicely on the M3 - a Leica Meter - nice mechanicals but it scratches the top-plate and is not accurate - an old Gossen handheld, which I never quite trust - a Sekonin L-308, great if you prefer a digital readout - a Sekonic L-398 - fabulous, but large, heavy and the L-208 is more practical - a Pentax Spotmeter, which looks like a gun so I didn't take it out of the house Go with the L-208 is my recommendation. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twotone Posted January 21, 2011 Author Share #78 Posted January 21, 2011 I have had several, but the one I think best is the Sekonic L-208 - small and inexpensive with both incident and direct metering. I have also: - the Voigtlander VCII meter - excellent and fits nicely on the M3 - a Leica Meter - nice mechanicals but it scratches the top-plate and is not accurate - an old Gossen handheld, which I never quite trust - a Sekonin L-308, great if you prefer a digital readout - a Sekonic L-398 - fabulous, but large, heavy and the L-208 is more practical - a Pentax Spotmeter, which looks like a gun so I didn't take it out of the house Go with the L-208 is my recommendation. Thanks for those, funnily enough Ffordes has one of L-208s for sale, new I think. Personally I'm shocked at the price of exposure meters relative to cameras. I mean you could just use a cheap camera to meter. I've been looking at these though ACP - Sverdlovsk-4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Geschlecht Posted January 22, 2011 Share #79 Posted January 22, 2011 Hello Panguar Ban, The purpose of the 3 large & 2 small screws on the bottom of the foot of an MR Meter is to adjust the cell position to approximate the area covered by the 90mm frame while positioning the meter body to not scratch the top of the camera & @ the same time properly interfacing the pin on the wheel connecting the meter w/ the cutout between the 2 & 4 on the shutterspeed dial. You might use some masking tape for covering the screws on the unpainted aluminium foot once adjusted so they don't change position because you don't want to make them too tight. Just tight enough to stop snugly. Somewhat of a balancing act. The tape can also be used for spacing w/ support @ some points between the foot & the meter body if necessary to align the meter body correctly. Best Regards, Michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twotone Posted February 8, 2011 Author Share #80 Posted February 8, 2011 Hi guys, just a small update for those who are interested I've almost completed my Leica kit, for the moment. I've recently bought a very nice Leica meter ms and a Leica chrome uva filter and, I'm just waiting on the arrival of a Leica chrome orange filter and lens hood & cap (the one someone kindly posted a pic of earlier in the thread) which I've purchased from Peter Loy cameras. I've also taken two rolls of B&W film (Ilford SP super) one of which I've recently had developed, this roll was taken using only the 'ultimate exposure computer' and to be fair it sort of worked as most of the photos from that roll of film were reasonably correctly exposed and a couple of the photos were as good as I've ever taken. The second roll is also B&W Ilford sp super but I used the leica meter for that roll along with the ultimate exposure computer, I shot most of the film just after dusk in town and in the main railway station on Saturday evening here in Glasgow and also some photos in my home at dinner with my family using candle light and lamps so it will be interesting to see the results. Most of my street shots on Saturday were shot by using F2 and shutter speed and of 125th/sec I checked the Leicameter with my digital camera's readings and it seemed pretty much the same so hopefully I got most of the photos properly exposed. Everything I've bought has been second hand and in very good condition indeed. My last purchase will be a Leica strap so that I can take the camera out with me without having to use the ER case which does get in the way a bit but it certainly keeps the camera and lens well protected. I'm a little un-easy about walking about at night with over a £1k of camera & lens etc hanging off my shoulder, Glasgow city centre can be a bit dodgy at the best of times on a Saturday evening although it's debatable whether many people there would know the value of the camera and lens however it is still a concern of mine. Thanks Tony Meant to say that I absolutely love the camera, it really is a joy to use and so quick too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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